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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2018, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by RedHawk View Post
Yes!! What the heck. Any suggestions?
Cable interference - probably two options:
  1. relocate the cable by fabricating a new bracket; or
  2. provide relief by grinding away a portion of the bellhousing.

I'd go with option 2. Remove the cable and bracket and get in there with a grinder, Dremel tool or file.

As to the return spring - source a proper return spring, then drill a hole in the clutch / shift fork to insert the end of the spring. OTOH, this spring is probably the clutch / shift fork return spring, with another, heavier spring on the clutch pedal or the pulling end of the cable - as seen in this diagram: http://repairguide.autozone.com/znet...528006284c.gif

If that's what your setup looks like, the clutch / shift fork return spring is only doing light duty, so doesn't need to be too strong - it just needs to be better mounted to the fork.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2018, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cycleguy55 View Post
Cable interference - probably two options:
  1. relocate the cable by fabricating a new bracket; or
  2. provide relief by grinding away a portion of the bellhousing.

I'd go with option 2. Remove the cable and bracket and get in there with a grinder, Dremel tool or file.

As to the return spring - source a proper return spring, then drill a hole in the clutch / shift fork to insert the end of the spring. OTOH, this spring is probably the clutch / shift fork return spring, with another, heavier spring on the clutch pedal or the pulling end of the cable - as seen in this diagram: http://repairguide.autozone.com/znet...528006284c.gif

If that's what your setup looks like, the clutch / shift fork return spring is only doing light duty, so doesn't need to be too strong - it just needs to be better mounted to the fork.
Thanks CycleGuy
So one other things I was hoping you could help me with and what caused me to investigate the clutch cable was the fact that when speed shifting through the gears ( not power shifting) second, third and fourth sometimes can not engage and it litterly causing a grind or just wont engage. If I perform a healthy run but take a slight pause between shifts there is no issue whatsoever.

What I was curious about was whether the cable isn't properly engaging the clutch fork because of the current setup or does this sound like a syncro problem? Anyway to go through process of elimination?
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2018, 06:49 AM
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Thanks CycleGuy
So one other things I was hoping you could help me with and what caused me to investigate the clutch cable was the fact that when speed shifting through the gears ( not power shifting) second, third and fourth sometimes can not engage and it litterly causing a grind or just wont engage. If I perform a healthy run but take a slight pause between shifts there is no issue whatsoever.

What I was curious about was whether the cable isn't properly engaging the clutch fork because of the current setup or does this sound like a syncro problem? Anyway to go through process of elimination?
That sounds like the synchros aren't keeping up and acting fast enough when you're 'speed shifting'. Other than re-building the transmission and replacing the synchro rings, are you running synthetic or dino fluid in your transmission?

I know the recommendation for my Richmond transmission was to use dino as synthetic was too slippery for the synchros to work properly. There's one exception - a certain Redline fluid I'm running, but I note the synchros are still not doing the job. I may go back to dino or look for a friction modifier to make them work better.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2018, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by cycleguy55 View Post
That sounds like the synchros aren't keeping up and acting fast enough when you're 'speed shifting'. Other than re-building the transmission and replacing the synchro rings, are you running synthetic or dino fluid in your transmission?

I know the recommendation for my Richmond transmission was to use dino as synthetic was too slippery for the synchros to work properly. There's one exception - a certain Redline fluid I'm running, but I note the synchros are still not doing the job. I may go back to dino or look for a friction modifier to make them work better.
I haven't the faintest idea. I suppose I will drain and re-fill GM Syncro mesh,
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2018, 08:10 AM
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I am going the same route as you. I have a Kenne Bell 1.5 kit that I am looking to install into my '90 CRI. It had never been completed- just all mechanicals installed and body mounted. But I am starting with a problem it that the two previous owners had discovered that the engine is sitting tilted with the passenger side of the block an inch higher than the other side and the EFI system keeps the hood from even close to sitting. I think the motor mounts were installed wrong. But I have had my house and new workshop under construction for the last year. Almost done and will start with looking at re-configuring the mounts to lower the motor and get it level. The Kenne Bell system it less than 1 1/2" taller than the factory EFI system. It should be able to be accommodated to clear.

And you guys were right, the twin Paxton did have the hood modified to clear.

If you do look at a SC mounted low and in front of the motor, why not use a Holly style throttle body, EFI system and fuel rails on a 4bbl intake and not fight with a blow thru carb? The tuning ability is much better and you still have the "original" look of a carb style system at a glance.

This is a listing for a EFI adapted intake using a late style TB in the Chicago area.

https://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/p...533309428.html

Last thing, if anyone is interested in a early Paxton style SC, I have one that was factory rebuilt and converted to a 6 rib pulley that I would sell. It was the same style as was used on the Shelby Mustangs and Cobras. It was originally on a Porsche 911 so I do not have the right brackets for the Ford. Its never been used- just dry mounted on the motor. I had sold the 911 and the new owner did not want the SC kit. He had a turbo motor he was going to install.

I had gotten a price for the additional hardware from the folks that list the original style system for the early style Mustangs on ebay and it was about $2500 for everything but the SC.
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2018, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Chicagowil View Post
If you do look at a SC mounted low and in front of the motor, why not use a Holly style throttle body, EFI system and fuel rails on a 4bbl intake and not fight with a blow thru carb? The tuning ability is much better and you still have the "original" look of a carb style system at a glance.
I second the idea of EFI, but a Holley-style TB and elbow are probably going to be higher than a carb and air cleaner. I'd be more inclined to get an elbow that bolts to the carb pad and use a modern, inline style TB. All that plumbing under the hood is going to detract from the 'original' look of a carb anyway - may as well go 'all in' and do it right.

Don't forget to switch to a single-plane manifold if that's not what's on there now.
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2018, 01:31 PM
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Brian,

My memory may have it a bit inaccurately but a Holley throttle body is somewhere around 1-1/2" shorter than a carburetor.

The MPFI throttle body measures 2" from manifold flange to the air cleaner flange. The newer "all-in-one" EFI units measure from 3" to 3-1/4", closer to a carb's height.

With the MPFI, the injectors are in the manifold vs in the throttle body for the all-in-one units.

Overall height also depends on the type of elbow (e.g., round or oval-shaped) you choose.

Hope this helps,

Tom
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2018, 04:28 PM
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Brian,

My memory may have it a bit inaccurately but a Holley throttle body is somewhere around 1-1/2" shorter than a carburetor.

The MPFI throttle body measures 2" from manifold flange to the air cleaner flange. The newer "all-in-one" EFI units measure from 3" to 3-1/4", closer to a carb's height.

With the MPFI, the injectors are in the manifold vs in the throttle body for the all-in-one units.

Overall height also depends on the type of elbow (e.g., round or oval-shaped) you choose.

Hope this helps,

Tom
While a 2" high throttle body is better than the standard height, I'd rather use that for a more gently curving inlet elbow and/or a raised carb pad. YMMV
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