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me too
I would also be interested in a fuel cap well , is it used only on the larger cap? or do you use one on the 3.5 cap as well. Do wiper motors from finish line fit our bolt pattern ? Looks good DV did you find the bushings? if not M-5500-A is the # for the hd arms order the bushings for those.WD
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Wetdog, an SVO agent is looking now or he may even have them????
The spillage well is only needed for the lemans cap. Finish line wiper system is a perfect match, they will supply you a small thin (cheap?) clamp to mount it with which YOU will probably change although I do find them to work well. They will not supply you the "tubes" to run the cable through. I find that 3/8's aluminum fuel line works great. It is very easy to bend to match the cowl, allowing the cable to pass through with out making all kinds of noises and of course it will be the easiest SINGLE flare you have ever done. (The tubes need to be flared coming out of the motor, into the right side of the wiper transmission. Then flared again as it exits the bracket for the wiper transmission going to the drivers wiper transmission. One flare on each side here please as all the flares will keep the tubes in place when thre wipers are on. Clear as mud-Hey? DV |
Thanks
What would i do without you ED ? If you make the wells I will take one the lemans cap looks better.WD
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Guys, I hate to say this, but give me a week or so and I will get those fabbed up-Little busy with Cpt Eddies toy right now.
DV |
DV,
Just got off the phone with Flaming River. Drop column, u-joints, shaft support and 36" of "D" bar shaft have been ordered. The guy at FR suggested using the 36" bar, as you could cut it into whatever lengths you need and it cost less then 2 18" sections. (all in polished stainless :cool:) I'll follow up on the radiator and gauges when I get to New Jersey (stuck at the airport for the moment) Cheers, Ed |
Ed,
The problem is- the shaft will not be splined in the middle ???? Sent you an e-mail attachment too. DV |
Replied to your e-mail.
No not splined in the middle. The guy at FR said to use a "DD" u-joint to connect the 2 sections together. Is this not ok? I gave him the column type I had along with the rack type and thats what he recommended. Ed |
That should work-back to work!
DV |
Dash
Ed, I see from your photos the picture of your Dash, The 2 that I have that come with my CR Kit has wings at each end and will not fit. Did your dash come from CR ? I am looking for idea's, anyone have any?
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Gas,
You have the optional "custom dash. No one but NO one cover their dash or even install the gauges until you have "cut to fit". All the dashes whether custom or standard are way over sized for the molding process. Gas you need the body on the frame, mounted is best but not necessary. You will end up cutting off about a full half inch off the wings, it should be a very tight fit to the inner body panel. It will sit on the ledge of the cowl bar which also may need trimmed. The best fit is when you have to pull the wings of the dash in a little then let them snap into place and the dash is fully sitting on the ledge from the cowl bar. Multi cuts are normal, take your time it will definately pay off in the end! When done the dash at the top will actually fit under the body edge and back a little. Make sense? DV PS. Just another llittle scenario that was never covered in the manual! |
DV,
Just placed an order with Finishline for the following... The large CAM wedges you asked for, along with 1 rear view mirror, 2 side mirrors and a flip-up master switch for the dash. Cheers, Ed |
Dash layout
DV,
Here's what I'm thinking for the layout of the dash. I'll e-mail you a PDF copy also. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...obra_Dash1.jpg Ed |
Ed
That looks fine! Gas, I just re-read my dash cutting explanation that I wroter you...Geez I hope you understood all you want to cut is the dash- not the cowl bar! And then cut the width only all the way around. You do not want to cut the wings off shorter, just narrower. I hope this makes sense. DV |
DV,
I just called my rat rod guy about the control arms. He's still thinking they will be done this week. If he does come through on his word %/ I'll bring them with me on Saturday, but we'll have to use your powder coating guy. There's no way my guy could turn these around so late in the week. Here's what I'm bring over this coming Saturday. 1) Engine 2) Tranny (with shifter) 3) Headers and side pipes 4) Radiator 5) Overflow tank 6) Gauges 7) The Flaming River stuff (drop bracket, u-joints and shaft) Ed |
Ed,
I can't put the control arms in anyway until they are powder coated. By the time I could ship them 45 miles away, get in line and get them back might as well let your guy get them all done. It's fine to bring the parts but can't assemble them or get the frame off the cart until I can put the wheels on it. Just so you know. Looking forward to the Flaming Rivers parts, then I can finish up the steering and the column! And definately the radiator! DV |
Ed, couple of questions both answers are strictly your choice;
The choice/debate between and AMP gauge or a VOLT gauge has been going on for years. My opinion AMP gauges can be and are a possible very serious hazard. If you know how to actuallly read one it can tell you a lot more about your system but at the cost of what? Second-Dash layout shows a mechanical CHOKE. Is that what you want or electric? Maybe the carb you have is already mechanical, if that is the case so be it. DV |
Quote:
I do have a mechanical choke on the carb. Didn't think I would really ever be in a situation were the choke would really come into play, so I went old school and went mechanical. I think it looks cool %/ with the old style choke on the dash. Ed |
All good choices!
ED |
Quote:
Looking forward to seeing you on Saturday. I'm going to try and get my rat rod guy to get the rear lower arms done and to my coater ASAP. I know its holding things up. See you Saturday! Should be there around 11-noon your time. Ed |
Door assembly
Double post again........
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