First thing I thought of too, the scoop was crooked?????
DV

DV, what you were supposed to say to the other Ed is...

"Got your picture. It took a lot of work, but I was finally able to get the hood scoop to match the one in the picture!"

I think I'll laught about that one for awhile!
DV

YES ED I do care ,and you are very clear in your postings. thank you so much, keep it up Dave

DV,
I for one enjoy seeing what you are doing. I just wish I was close enough to see it in person. Hay, maybe I should take a vacation. 6-12 months should do it.

Terry

Well thank you, I've got this fear, doing all this,pictures and descriptions for a future CD on building the CR's and it will only make sense to me! Strokes do give a guy a totally different perspective on things! :)
DV

Morning DV!!!

I'll hopefully have a firm due date on the lower rear arms today :mad: any luck in finding the correct rear upper bushings? Also. How much -6 line do you have left over? I think I'll need to get some more to run from the transmission to the cooler and is -6 OK for that? Or should I step up to -8? Can you let me know what size 90s are needed for the trans coooler?

Cheers,

Ed

Tonneau Cover
 

Good Morning DV,

You seem to be the recognized expert on Classic Roadsters. I bought one that was constructed in 2000 to 2002. It seems to be a nice car although after waiting as long as I have anything that looked like a Cobra I would probably think is a "nice car". Jokes aside, it runs fine and looks great. I'm looking to buy a tonneau cover and so far have got a price of $400. Is that reasonable? Have you heard of a "snapless tonneau cover? You have a really full plate but if you could steer me in the right direction I would appreciate it:D.

Jim Stern

Jim, have we met at one of the FLings? Seems your name is awfull familiar. $40-0.00 for a custom tonneau seems fair to me and yes I have heard of the snapless type-nbo complaints, but I have no idea how it works.

Jim, may I ask who built your car?

Ed to be safe and not order a ton of extra parts we had better wait until the tranny is here. I can get all the parts and lines from Klotz anyway-OK? #6 should be be fine, it will all depend on the tranny whether or not it will take 6's or 8's without an adapter- hate adapters! I haven't been to Klotz since last Friday so I will probably find out about my missing bushing today!
DV

Crooked Scoop
 

I just finished the crooked scoop modification on my CR that is so you get max air to the engine in a turn ! ED told me about this secret a while ago :LOL: ED I think I speak for everyone that we all listen like a bunch of kids at a campfire to your advice , keep it up.WD

DV,

Bushings for the lower rear arms just got delivered to Kevin, so he's going to try and get them done by Monday. I'll get them rushed thru the powder coater hopefully by 7/9 or 7/10 at the latest.

I'll let you handle the tranny cooler lines when the time comes. Don't see a need to make a trip over this Saturday with the control arms still not finished :CRY:

Plan on seeing my fat smiling face :D on Saturday the 12th.

Let me know if there is anything I can do for you between now and then.

"the other ed"

Hey DV!!!

How's you day going? Did your hot rod new computer show up yet?

OK. Lets talk shifters. I don't think you where to thrilled with the B&M unit I dropped off and now I'm wondering how its going to look cosmetically when installed. It looks like it has a pretty high console. What's your take on this? Should we look at something else?

What's your opinion on this one from TCI? It still has kind of a tall console, but shorter shift handle.
http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Shifters/outlaw/

Anybody else, please feel free to chime in. The issue is a shift from a C6 automatic. This is what I currently have...
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

"the other ed"

Ed,
My personal preference is the shorter the better. For me, if I were running an auto transmission, I would try to find a shifter plate that would attach almost directly to the tunnel.

Terry

Thanks Terry,

Thats what I'm starting to think. Now what to use.....

This looks good. http://www.eautoworks.com/product-BampM-182239.htm

Ed

I need clearance, clarence
 

Ok...

So I'm surfing around everybody's photo galleries, trying to get last minute ideas for things and I stumble across this picture.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...dual_plane.jpg

DV is thinking I might have a engine to hood clearance problem (just ask huckleberry). I have a 351/408 with a dual plane intake. So the picture above is a SPF with a 351/408 and dual plane. See mine below...

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../Engine_1b.jpg

Ok DV.... Just sitting here hoping to catch a break on something with this build. What do you think?

I believe there was someone on here that made a dropped bottom pan for the air cleaner that lowered the filter unit by about 1" or more. Had to make a few mods around the choke and throttle area but it worked good. I am running a Edelbrock-Performer on my 351 and CRII reworked the base plate to set it back towards the firewall by 2" to clear the front of the hood scoop. It came with a plastic spacer that I had to shorten by 1/2" to clear the scoop. I had to make a spacer that threads into the intake to keep the air cleaner from twisting.

Terry

Ed,
The intake the SPF is using vs. yours are two huge different animals. Lets just wait until I can get you motor mounted with the tranny and see what we've got. (In other words no changes yet.) on the shifter, the one you have is or will work. Actually that was make for a pick up truck type installtion. George wanted it for his Willy's and Geogrge just said-DV make it work please, (George does that a lot!)_so I did, modified the shifter frame built a new console, dropped it over 2"s and it works and now looks fine. If we used the plastic housing that came with the original shifter it would be way higher than your elbow. My thoughts is to actually cut out the tunnel and see if I can't mount it lower to the trans. The second one you pickled aint all bad either but still going to be a l ittle high. The Mustang one is pretty cool but may end up being more of a headache than a solution. You will notice it uses the original cables on a early mustang which would have to be ordered and modified???

Again lets wait a llittle bit until we get this thing on its wheels and the motor/tranny mounted.

Yes my new firebreathing computer came on, I could see it smoking when DHL delivered it! This thing scares the heebee geebees out of me! I have been looking at it for a full day just tgrying to figure out what goes where and when!

Wireless combo printer, 10x10 sub-woofer for the speakers, a little black box that does ??, 10 USB ports, for cryin' out loud there are three ways to hook up the monitor! And only one way to hook it up right!

And as hard as I tried I had to buy VISTA! Missed XP PRO by one day!

Helll, I'm 60 this month! I think I would trade a Cobra build for some one to put this thing together :) !
DV

DV,

If you need help getting your super computer up and running, just say the word and I'll come over and take care of it for you.

Ed

Hi DV, This is Jim from Delaware. last night I had a problem starting my CR II. I have a pushbutton starter on the thing and in the past I would occasionally have to hit the starter button several times to get the starter to engage. Last night I hit the starter button 3 or 4 times and then it wouldn't even click like it normally does. I rolled it and jump started it. Once I had it started, It ran fine but all the gauges did not work including the electronic speedometer. The lights on the gauges work and the Autometer tach works but the gauges; oil, temp, etc do not. The battery is new. I went through all the fuses in the underdash fuse block and they seemed ok. Any ideas?

Jim Stern

Jim,
A long distant guess but everything you describe is "GROUND(S). Either not enough proper grounds or simply a loose ground. Do you have a braided dedicated ground from the engine to the frame? Are all your grounds piled on top of each other? Break them apart and use more grounds to the frame/cowl bar. Do you know if your cowl bar is welded to the frame of did the builder only use the four bolts the book calls for? The starter button should absolutely have it's own ground with nothing more added to it!

If it was in the shop this is the first thing that I would look for. To much of a coincidence that all these components would have seperate problems!

Keep me posted-hey?

Ed, thank you but I think I will attack this thing today and see if it really smokes! Then we'll see! :)
DV