Build thread - Resurrection of an old Contemporary - Page 4

kitcarbp · #1 (**permalink**) 03-13-2009, 01:33 PM

767- Great work on the brake lines, you have more patience then I. What I did to get rid of inferior connectors on my harness was to purchase GM type Weatherpak pigtails from PEP-BOYS. They sell 1, 2,3, and 4 pin male and female connectors separately with about 4 inches of wire. This way you just solder and heat shrink tube each connection and dont have to buy all the tools. Depends how many you need. If you need a bunch, better get a kit it will be most cost effective.
The only caution I would add is I dont remember the pig-tail wire gauge sizes so it may not be sufficient with high-beam headlamp current load, need to check that. The alternative as you stated is to buy the weatherpack kits on line and attach your own connector ends, you will need the correct crimp tool, and pin tool and a little more of that patience you have and you avoid the solder joint of the pigtails. There are a ton of kit suppliers on-line, easy to find. Enjoy.

767Jockey · #2 (**permalink**) 03-13-2009, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kitcarbp

767- Great work on the brake lines, you have more patience then I. What I did to get rid of inferior connectors on my harness was to purchase GM type Weatherpak pigtails from PEP-BOYS. They sell 1, 2,3, and 4 pin male and female connectors separately with about 4 inches of wire. This way you just solder and heat shrink tube each connection and dont have to buy all the tools. Depends how many you need. If you need a bunch, better get a kit it will be most cost effective.
The only caution I would add is I dont remember the pig-tail wire gauge sizes so it may not be sufficient with high-beam headlamp current load, need to check that. The alternative as you stated is to buy the weatherpack kits on line and attach your own connector ends, you will need the correct crimp tool, and pin tool and a little more of that patience you have and you avoid the solder joint of the pigtails. There are a ton of kit suppliers on-line, easy to find. Enjoy.

I only need six of them. One three wire plug on each headlight and parking light, and a two wire plug on each tail light. I found the pin removal tool on Ebay for about $28.00, and the pin removal tool for about $7.00. The plugs themselves are cheap, they're about $5.00 each. I would like to use the plugs without pigtails but instead wired directly into the Weatherpack plugs because in the Contemporary the headlight and parking light leads are in the wheel wells with the tires spraying lots of water on them if I get caught out in the rain. I figure the seal will be better with the leads going directly to the plugs rather than with splices.

I was ale to get the darn brake lines done, at least for now. The front and rear lines are now all complete. Nick made me an absolutely beautiful dead nuts on to the original floor mounted pedal box. Once I mount the body and can mount the pedal box, I only have to run two lines from the front and rear master cylinders to the respective brass T fitting on the frame in the front and back. These should be very straight forward (famous last words, I know.......). On to the electrical! Hopefully the few of you who are reading this aren't bored silly by all this.......

cobred · #3 (**permalink**) 03-13-2009, 08:13 PM

Everything looks great so far, nice job. Just because Contemp. put the connectors inside the wheel wells do you have to? Maybe you can extend the wires and put connectors in the engine compartment. Just a thought.

mickmate · #4 (**permalink**) 05-07-2009, 09:33 PM

Hey Doug pony up the number for the bar if you have it. I have a few good stories and part numbers for the CCX guys that I will probably do a thread about each. Just an FYI for reference on yours, the rear sway bar is 13 7/8" from the flat frame bottom to the centre of the bar, the bar is 3/4" diameter, it's arms are 7 1/8" long and the whole bar is close to 36" long to arm centres. That and Fatboy's great picture gives these guys enough info to put one together from your nice kit and locate it on the frame.

767Jockey · #5 (**permalink**) 05-07-2009, 09:47 PM

OK,I just measured it all up, here's what I have and why I chose these measurements:
Bar is custom made by Speedway engineering. 3/4" diameter.

Centerline of bar to bottom surface of flat lateral rear crossmember is 12 1/2"
I didn't mount it higher because the drivers side arm has to fit beneath the outer mount for the rollbar. If it sits higher it'll slap the underneath of the rollbar mount when the arm comes up. I don't know if you can see in the pictures, but I had to do some trimming on the underside of the rollbar mount to allow clearance for the driver side arm to swing up without contacting the lower side of the rollbar mount.

The arms are adjustable from 6" to 8" measured from the centerline of the bar to the centerline of the down link.

The bar is 34 1/4" from arm center to arm center. This drops the downlinks right into the center of the lower control arm mounts.

Hope this helps.

ZOERA-SC7XX · #6 (**permalink**) 05-08-2009, 05:03 PM

Getting back to the engine...It's gonna take a while for you to build another 427. Why not just do up a mild 390 or 428 for the time being...just to DRIVE the car. You can always do the 427 killer engine next year. I run a somewhat mild 428 in my car and I love it. It's reliable, somewhat fast, and pretty good on gas. Sure, I'd love a 427 side oiler with 600 HP, but some things are a compromise. I understand your dilemma, and agree that the machinist must be paid, but paid by the block manufacturer, not you. In the meantime, maybe a nice 390 short block can get you on the road, and that's what it's all about. Good luck and keep the faith.

patrickt · #7 (**permalink**) 05-08-2009, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZOERA-SC7XX

Why not just do up a mild 390 or 428 for the time being...just to DRIVE the car.

Good advice. You can get just as much power out of a 428 block as you can a 427 block, and that power will be wayyyy more than you can ever use. And unless your car is up on a lift, no one but you knows the difference.

767Jockey · #8 (**permalink**) 05-08-2009, 06:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Good advice. You can get just as much power out of a 428 block as you can a 427 block, and that power will be wayyyy more than you can ever use. And unless your car is up on a lift, no one but you knows the difference.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZOERA-SC7XX

Getting back to the engine...It's gonna take a while for you to build another 427. Why not just do up a mild 390 or 428 for the time being...just to DRIVE the car. You can always do the 427 killer engine next year. I run a somewhat mild 428 in my car and I love it. It's reliable, somewhat fast, and pretty good on gas. Sure, I'd love a 427 side oiler with 600 HP, but some things are a compromise. I understand your dilemma, and agree that the machinist must be paid, but paid by the block manufacturer, not you. In the meantime, maybe a nice 390 short block can get you on the road, and that's what it's all about. Good luck and keep the faith.

The problem is I have ALL the pieces already for the 427 build. To go to a 390 now I have to store all the 427 parts and start all over again with crank, rods, block, heads, cam - none of this stuff that I have now will work in a 390. My quickest way out of this is to get the block manufacturer off his a$$ and get in gear and get me a block. The machining cost issue is peripheral to the main issue - I need him to get me a block, either cast Iron or aluminum NOW! It is good to hear, however, that at least one of you don't think that I am off base thinking that this guy ought to pay the machinist. I appreciate the input. Sometimes we get so angry and emotional that we are certain that we're in the right, and we really aren't. I wanted to make sure I wasn't putting myself in this position. The opinion of knowledgeable people without a dog in the fight is always appreciated.

patrickt · #9 (**permalink**) 05-08-2009, 06:15 PM

Are you dead-set on a "new" block or could you live with an original? I know there are SO blocks on www.fordfe.com but I do not know the price.

767Jockey · #10 (**permalink**) 05-08-2009, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Are you dead-set on a "new" block or could you live with an original? I know there are SO blocks on www.fordfe.com but I do not know the price.

I'm stuck with an aftermarket block, Patrick. It's a VERY long story, but to make it short, the original Ford sideoiler block I had planned to use ended up with a bad cylinder in it. Rather than sleeving the block the engine builder decided to bore the whole block .047 over and ordered the custom pistons in that size. He then hardblocked the block and assembled it. I was out of town while all this was going on. When I got back I rejected the block and bought a new one. I am using the .047 over pistons we now have because they're already paid for, and they're really good, top quality stuff. Because of the size, however, a Ford block really won't accommodate them, it has to be an aftermarket block.

ZOERA-SC7XX · #11 (**permalink**) 05-08-2009, 06:22 PM

Many serviceable 427 blocks are available at reasonable prices. I've thought of doing one up for myself one of these days. Pond, Genesis or Shelby blocks are not cost effective for me. Plus I like original drive lines.

ZOERA-SC7XX · #12 (**permalink**) 05-08-2009, 06:34 PM

390 crank & rods are the same size as the 427, unless you got a stroker. Yeah, I guess you're between a rock and a hard place. Ya gotta eat $hit until the guy makes it right.
I don't think the block manufacturer has your best interests in mind. If he did, you'd have another block or he'd refund your money. Bad business.

767Jockey · #13 (**permalink**) 05-08-2009, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZOERA-SC7XX

390 crank & rods are the same size as the 427, unless you got a stroker. Yeah, I guess you're between a rock and a hard place. Ya gotta eat $hit until the guy makes it right.
I don't think the block manufacturer has your best interests in mind. If he did, you'd have another block or he'd refund your money. Bad business.

Yes, you guessed right, it's a fairly sizable stroker package. As far as what the manufacturer has in mind, I'm trying to sit back and see what he comes up with. As soon as I feel that he's blowing me off, I'll be screaming loud and clear, believe me.

Truthfully, I am starting to squirm a bit, my patience is wearing thin. I think I have been fair and honest with this guy, but there is a limit as to how far I am willing to be strung along.

ZOERA-SC7XX · #14 (**permalink**) 05-08-2009, 06:48 PM

Be sure to let us know what block NOT to buy. That should help him out a bit.

767Jockey · #15 (**permalink**) 05-08-2009, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZOERA-SC7XX

Be sure to let us know what block NOT to buy. That should help him out a bit.

I'm trying to deal with this from the high road and give him every opportunity to do the right thing. If he doesn't do the same and he leaves me hanging out to dry, believe me everyone will know who this guy is. I am truly hoping it won't come to that. I need two things from him. I need a block ASAP, and I expect him to either cover the machining bill totally, and send me a new iron block, or cover half the machining bill, and send me an aluminum block - his choice. I don't care either way - I just need him to do it ASAP.

patrickt · #16 (**permalink**) 05-08-2009, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 767Jockey

I need a block ASAP, and I expect him to either cover the machining bill totally, and send me a new iron block, or cover half the machining bill, and send me an aluminum block - his choice.

I think that's very reasonable. In the scheme of fights, it would cost both of you more than that just to get someone in your corner.

767Jockey · #17 (**permalink**) 05-08-2009, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

I think that's very reasonable. In the scheme of fights, it would cost both of you more than that just to get someone in your corner.

I am trying very hard to be reasonable. I hope he understands that.

patrickt · #18 (**permalink**) 05-08-2009, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 767Jockey

I am trying very hard to be reasonable. I hope he understands that.

Just remember that it's very difficult to get money out of people that don't have any.

If his business is "skirting the line," then you may be better off taking whatever it is you can get.

Rick Parker · #19 (**permalink**) 05-08-2009, 11:12 PM

IMO it starts with the business that cast the blocks. If it was represented (by the vendor) to you that the block would accept the necessary bore to correct the flaw and you then experienced this problem, the vendor should make it right to you. That being said, the individual or company that cast the block has some incured liability at that point to the vendor as do you to your machinist. Asking or expecting the machinist to be paid by the vendor is not right either. You've all heard the phrase s*it flows downhill (?) It's true. Everyone in sucsession has an obligation to the next in line. The originator (who cast the block) has the greatest exposure. I hate seeing or over hearing people get the "Two Step" when someone else has made a mistake.

767Jockey · #20 (**permalink**) 05-08-2009, 11:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick Parker

IMO it starts with the business that cast the blocks. If it was represented (by the vendor) to you that the block would accept the necessary bore to correct the flaw and you then experienced this problem, the vendor should make it right to you. That being said, the individual or company that cast the block has some incured liability at that point to the vendor as do you to your machinist. Asking or expecting the machinist to be paid by the vendor is not right either. You've all heard the phrase s*it flows downhill (?) It's true. Everyone in sucsession has an obligation to the next in line. The originator (who cast the block) has the greatest exposure. I hate seeing or over hearing people get the "Two Step" when someone else has made a mistake.

Rick,
I bought the block directly from the manufacturer. The manufacturer sold me the block, the manufacturer gave the go ahead to machine the block. The manufacturer IS the vendor.