New JBL Cobra Daytona Coupe Street Version Build - Page 6

Clois Harlan · #**101** (**permalink**) 02-29-2016, 10:06 AM

and here is the pass side of the Vintage Air unit:

Clois Harlan · #**102** (**permalink**) 02-29-2016, 10:09 AM

You can see above my Master Cylinders I have installed my fuel regulator, all my radiator hoses have been installed as well as all my AC lines have been routed and my AC Dryer has been located (none of my AC hoses have been crimped yet but for now they are where they belong)

Clois Harlan · #**103** (**permalink**) 02-29-2016, 10:16 AM

My gauges have all been located and the wires have been grouped accordingly. All I need to do now before I start the engine is re-install all my dash components, wire in my battery and the shut off switch and steering column. Then later this week or weekend I will go to O'Reilys' and rent one of their engine priming tools (I understand there is a $180 deposit) that you remove your oil sending unit and screw in the primer canister attach an air hose and inject about a quart of oil into your engine). I am told this is the only way to prime a Coyote before first start up plus it is suggested by Ford in their start up proceedures and it keeps your warrenty in tact.

So on to the final stages of the mechanical portion of this build :

Clois Harlan · #**104** (**permalink**) 02-29-2016, 10:23 AM

For anyone interested in what fluids I have installed here you go:

1. 8 Quarts of Ford Motorcraft Blended synthetic 5W20

2. 3 plust gallons of Orange Peek Antifreeze Full strength mixed 50/50 with distilled water

3. 2.7 QTS of Amsoil MTG Transmission Fluid (I am running a 6 speed Ford M82 Transmission with modified center mounted shifter).

4: Proeston DOT 3 brake fluid in My Clutch

5. Wilwood 600 degree brake fluid for my brakes.

Hopefully the initial start will happen within the next week or so (depending on work schedule and honey do request.

Clois Harlan · #**105** (**permalink**) 02-29-2016, 12:07 PM

All this may not seem like much but finding the right hoses and fittings have been a real challenge. Had to spend $40 on a silicone 1" x 5/8" hose that goes from the rad fill tank to the engine. The tank was a custom made unit from Howe Radiator. Trying to locate the tank where it would be higher than the engine so it would gravity feed into the engine and then to the radiator was especially difficult for me. The tank has two additional outlets; one the goes to a 5/16" fitting at the top of the radiator on the driver side and one that goes to the bleed line in front of the thermostat. Of course there is also a 1/4" hose that goes to an overflow tank. There is just so much room in any engine compartment.

dallas_ · #**106** (**permalink**) 02-29-2016, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clois Harlan

Hopefully the initial start will happen within the next week or so.

Good update Clois. Looks like you have been busy. Getting closer!

Clois Harlan · #**107** (**permalink**) 03-01-2016, 04:33 AM

I worked on my dash a bit last night and determined my fuse box is going to have to be moved since two rows of fuses extend above the bottom of my dash and will become unreachable if completed as is. I do have several options so no big deal.

Starting to think about which seats I want to use and if I can talk Fran Hall into selling me a couple of his new Ford GT seats at a reasonable price I would like to use them. Otherwise I will have to go with the vintage bomber type seats from Speedway.

Ron61 · #**108** (**permalink**) 03-01-2016, 04:53 AM

Clois,

You are really making good progress on the Coupe. That will be a real thrill to run when you get it finished and any bugs worked out.

Ron

Clois Harlan · #**109** (**permalink**) 03-02-2016, 05:29 AM

The bugs are my biggest concern since I have gone with the Coyote Engine. I just hope I have done all the right things. A good friend of mine suggested I go with Mobil 5W50 instead of the Motorcraft oil because it has a much higher ZDDP addative and protects the moving parts better. O'Reilly has their Mobil One on sale right now for the same price as what I paid for the Motorcraft Synthetic Blend. Next time.

Ron61 · #**110** (**permalink**) 03-02-2016, 06:00 AM

Clois,

Darren Freidman who owns our site has used a Coyote Engine in his Cobra that he races for quite a while and I don't think he has had any problems at all with it. I believe he replaced his 427SOC engine with the Coyote. He does mostly the type of racing where they have the cones and that means a lot of shifting and up and down in the RPMs. If you want to ask him about anything I am sure that he would be happy to share anything that he has found with you.

Ron

vector1 · #**111** (**permalink**) 03-02-2016, 06:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clois Harlan

The bugs are my biggest concern since I have gone with the Coyote Engine. I just hope I have done all the right things. A good friend of mine suggested I go with Mobil 5W50 instead of the Motorcraft oil because it has a much higher ZDDP addative and protects the moving parts better. O'Reilly has their Mobil One on sale right now for the same price as what I paid for the Motorcraft Synthetic Blend. Next time.

I see multiple oil changes in your future.... not too long after startup maybe?

You might consider installing an hour meter. I put one on the black car and like it as I have an idea when I do things to it. Be better to keep a log book but my analitity only goes so far.

Morris · #**112** (**permalink**) 03-02-2016, 07:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clois Harlan

The bugs are my biggest concern since I have gone with the Coyote Engine. I just hope I have done all the right things. A good friend of mine suggested I go with Mobil 5W50 instead of the Motorcraft oil because it has a much higher ZDDP addative and protects the moving parts better. O'Reilly has their Mobil One on sale right now for the same price as what I paid for the Motorcraft Synthetic Blend. Next time.

Clovis....

Mobil 1 Racing 0w50 oil......not 5w50......big difference.....

Clois Harlan · #**113** (**permalink**) 03-02-2016, 11:02 AM

Thanks guys your info is great...

You know there are only so many things you get to do "first" and I guess it is normal to be a little unsure of yourself.

Bernica · #**114** (**permalink**) 03-02-2016, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Morris

Clovis....

Mobil 1 Racing 0w50 oil......not 5w50......big difference.....

I thought the rule was to never break in an engine with synthetic oil?
Joe Gibbs has a specific break-in oil. I am sure there are others...

Clois Harlan · #**115** (**permalink**) 03-02-2016, 06:31 PM

I agree about the breakin oil but that is what the Ford people told me when I bought the engine. Since it was a crate engine filled with oil when it was delivered I have wondered if it had already been run in.

Might be worth another call to the.Ford racing tech tomorrow.

Bernica · #**116** (**permalink**) 03-02-2016, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clois Harlan

I agree about the breakin oil but that is what the Ford people told me when I bought the engine. Since it was a crate engine filled with oil when it was delivered I have wondered if it had already been run in.

Might be worth another call to the.Ford racing tech tomorrow.

Now that's interesting. I thought most crate engines are delivered with a big tag on them saying "NO OIL!".

Clois Harlan · #**117** (**permalink**) 03-03-2016, 03:59 AM

Mine was fully crated with oil filter in place and all the electronics and accessories in a box within the serran wrapped crate and delivered by RL trucking to my door. I bought my crate engine direct from Ford Racing. I still have my 2 year 24 month warrenty because it doesn't start the clock until it is fired for the first time.

I agree I thought all the engines were delivered dry too.

Morris · #**118** (**permalink**) 03-03-2016, 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bernica

I thought the rule was to never break in an engine with synthetic oil?
Joe Gibbs has a specific break-in oil. I am sure there are others...

Old wise tale........we've been using synthetic oil in new engines since the 70's.....and most new cars of today have synthetic oils from the beginning...especially the Hi-Performance vehicles....

dallas_ · #**119** (**permalink**) 03-03-2016, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clois Harlan

Since it was a crate engine filled with oil when it was delivered I have wondered if it had already been run in.

Might be worth another call to the.Ford racing tech tomorrow.

My Ford Racing crate motor came filled with oil and had been run tested.

Bernica · #**120** (**permalink**) 03-03-2016, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Morris

Old wise tale........we've been using synthetic oil in new engines since the 70's.....and most new cars of today have synthetic oils from the beginning...especially the Hi-Performance vehicles....

Not saying you are wrong, but I have seen Hi-Perf engines that wiped the cam within the first couple of hours and the reason in both cases was using the wrong break-in oil (synthetic). I am sure that if Ford ran it, they used what was appropriate for run-in.