Progress on #782

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by DanEC

This would have been better posted in the Originality forum but escalated more than I expected. It's become simply a strange piece of Cobra trivia.

Naah, it's been over there for a while. See: Wiper blade direction / orientation And I think the "originals" that you see that are parked to the driver side might have started out the other way and then got "restored" over to the wrong side. From simply a driving standpoint, I'd rather not have the wipers in front of me when I'm driving anyway -- meaning, I'd rather have them over on the passenger side even if that wasn't the correct side (which it is). So, the question remains, Why are the CSX4xxx cars, just about every Kirkham, and every SPF car putting them over in front of the driver?

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by patrickt

From simply a driving standpoint, I'd rather not have the wipers in front of me when I'm driving anyway -- meaning, I'd rather have them over on the passenger side even if that wasn't the correct side (which it is).

So you could park the blade on the rubber instead of the glass and cap the pass side...

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

So you could park the blade on the rubber instead of the glass and cap the pass side...

Yes, that's a possibility. Is there some sort of goofball shortage of motors that would explain three of the top four replica makers putting the wipers over on the wrong side?

[ERA Chas]

Yes Dan, I approve but you can go a scoch more...

BUT-you don't want positive camber.
My specs:
CASTER CAMBER TOE
FRONT 4˚ NEG 1/2˚ POS 1/8"
REAR NEG 3/4˚ POS 1/16"
This was fine for the street and acceptable for some track work. Straight tracking above 100 MPH, excellent turn-in, and no appreciable tire wear before they were at replacement age anyway. Makes it very responsive to steering input without being 'nervous' on the highway.
Tucking the tops in will also aid any further lowering.

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

Yes Dan, I approve but you can go a scoch more...

BUT-you don't want positive camber.
My specs:
CASTER CAMBER TOE
FRONT 4˚ NEG 1/2˚ POS 1/8"
REAR NEG 3/4˚ POS 1/16"
This was fine for the street and acceptable for some track work. Straight tracking above 100 MPH, excellent turn-in, and no appreciable tire wear before they were at replacement age anyway. Makes it very responsive to steering input without being 'nervous' on the highway.
Tucking the tops in will also aid any further lowering.

Chas - I was using ERA's specs - camber - 0 +/- 1/4, caster 4-1/2 +/- 1/4. Where did these come from? Actually, not to argue I was shooting for as close to 0 camber as I could get but I did get a bit more correction on camber from a certain dimension shim than the ERA manual indicated. The manual said a 1/8 inch shim F&R would change camber 1/4 deg. I started out with neg 11/16 deg and added 3/16 inch of shims and got 1/8 positive. It looks like I should have just added a 1/8 inch shim.

I plan to check ride heigth and re-run everything once I've had a chance to put a few miles on it and I'll pull a little of the positive camber out of it then. Not sure about 1/2 deg negative though??

Not sure I will want to go any lower - my mufflers hang down about 1/2 inch below the frame rails which comes out of my clearance also. I have them sucked up about as high as ERA's header collectors will let me without putting a bend in them. But, I'm not sure I want them much closer to the floor pan. So, I'm going to have to watch for speed bumps and curbs both on the nose and mid-way between the wheels.

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by DanEC

Not sure I will want to go any lower - my mufflers hang down about 1/2 inch below the frame rails which comes out of my clearance also. I have them sucked up about as high as ERA's header collectors will let me without putting a bend in them. But, I'm not sure I want them much closer to the floor pan.

I forgot about your undercar system so you're right to leave it where you have it now.
I probably used my car more aggressively than you intend. But the negative setting had no ill effects on street driving and definitely improved track and autocross cornering.
But at the very least, strive for zero or maybe 1/4 degree neg.

[DanEC]

I'll pull it back to a little on the negative side. Looks like my electrical charging problems are not solved so I guess that will be occupying my time for awhile.

[patrickt]

Then pull the plug on the voltage regulator, and on the alternator side of the connection, jump a wire across the field and power fields. This will be the first wire U/G and third wire Y/R. Then start the car and rev it to no more than 1500 RPM or so while you stare at the ammeter. Tell us if you have a charge condition on the ammeter.

[kevins2]

Hi Dan,

I know the vinyl on the driver's side bugs you but, before ripping it out, you might set the seat in place and see if it is even noticeable.

Looks really good and I hope you can resolve that charging issue soon.

Kevin

[DanEC]

Kevin,

I'm leaving it for now. I'm going to concentrate on getting to the bottom of this charging issue if I have to replace the alternator, voltage regulator, fuses, wiring harness, battery - etc, etc. It's all stock Ford stuff except the harness - it shouldn't be this tough. Otherwise I'm going to have a very expensive, non-functional, full scale model of a Cobra taking up garage space.

[mickmate]

It looks absolutely stunning sitting on the ground. Stay the course you're almost ready for spring.

[DanEC]

Finally, my charging problem is solved. Installing a resistor parallel with the ignition light did the trick and my alternator is finally charging. So moving on I'm concentrating on getting the interior together and it's coming along.

The tunnel and shifter are in. Not sure why the shifter seems so short - it's out of another, older ERA and my transmission is sitting pretty much as high as the mount allows. I think I saw somewhere that the tunnel is a little higher on the newer cars than on the older cars. That may be the reason.





The driver seat belts and seat are in. The passenger seat is just sititng in the car until I get the seat belts on that side installed.





Once the interior is finished up I'm pretty much down to just tightening up the knockoffs and wiring them and I should be ready for a slow drive around the block to see if everything looks like it's going to hold together.

[DanEC]

First (short) drive today. I'll spare everyone the home movie of my circling the cul-de-sac, first clockwise - then counter clockwise, and post the one my wife shot while I was coming in from my first run around the block. It only took me 3 years and 11 months to get here on what was to be my retirement project - still not fully retired. No major surprises but some things to work on:

- Brakes still take a couple pumps to get the pedal up. I'll re-bleed them.

- The short shifter and heavy boot are causing problems with 3rd gear engagement. A firm shove will get it in but if I'm not paying attention it often won't go all the way in. I think I'm going to have to get another shifter handle with a little longer lower section before the bend. Also, I wonder if there is a rubber boot that is of thinner material? I know there are leather ones out there.

- Don't like the feel of the clutch - heavy and a long pedal throw. I guess I'm just going to have to get used to the feel. Moving the pedal back another 1/2 inch will probably help but it's up against the fiberglass of the foot box now. Looks like I will need to go in and relieve it a little to allow the pedal to come back slightly. It's either that or move the seat up. Not sure why the clutch is heavy - standard McLeod diaprahm clutch. I wonder if there are different clutch forks out there with different lengths on the slave cylinder end. Got mine from Bret so it shouldn't be anything unuual for a Cobra rep.

- I think I have a mild case of a sticking hydraulic lifters(s) - probably from the engine being built and run in about 3 years ago. Probably try a 1/2 quart of Marvel Mystery oil before I do anything else.

That seems to be about it - rides good, no squeaks or rattles I could hear. I like the under car exhaust. Fairly quiet riding along but you can tell there is a lot going on under the hood.









Here is one for ERAChas to evaluate for ride height.



And the action video by my wife and her Iphone - ignore the laughing. She figues I lost my mind a long time ago.

[DonC]

Congratulations on your achievement. Isn't it nice to know that that light at the end of the tunnel wasn't an oncoming train. Best of luck with your new ride. It looks great.
DonC

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by DonC

Congratulations on your achievement. Isn't it nice to know that that light at the end of the tunnel wasn't an oncoming train. Best of luck with your new ride. It looks great.
DonC

Thanks - I bet Bob P. will be relieved to see it running. He probably wondered if old #782 would ever see the light of day or just end up being the missing in assembly ERA.

[kevins2]

The charging problem is solved!!! Today's a good day for you and I'm sure you're happy to be working on the finishing touches. Looks great.

Kevin

[ERA Chas]

Just a reminder; maybe you want the eye bolts and clips for the belts. Makes them a snap for cleaning or maintenance.

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

Just a reminder; maybe you want the eye bolts and clips for the belts. Makes them a snap for cleaning or maintenance.

Actually I was eyeing the shoulder harnesses and pads that Kevins2 added to his car and wondering where he got them - directly from Crow or from a vendor? I don't see anything wrong with the lap belts - just like to upgrade the shoulder belts.

[kevins2]

Originally Posted by DanEC

Actually I was eyeing the shoulder harnesses and pads that Kevins2 added to his car and wondering where he got them - directly from Crow or from a vendor? I don't see anything wrong with the lap belts - just like to upgrade the shoulder belts.

Hi Dan,

It was our friend, Mr. ERACHAS, that suggested the upgrade to the wider shoulder harnesses and pads. I ordered both directly from Crow's website. They not only look a lot better, but the pads make it easier to keep them organized. I'm sure they're more comfortable but that's hard to tell since I've only driven the car bundled up in cold weather gear.

Chas' suggestion to switch to eyebolts and clips (like the lap belts) is a good one but I like the look of the buckles that came with the original shoulder harnesses. The new shoulder harnesses from Crow came with buckles as well, but I still preferred the originals, so I actually cut the old shoulder straps off and used the originals. When I was working on my car, I rolled the shoulder harnesses up and put a rubber band around them to keep them out of the way. Not as convenient as having them removeable, but worked for me.

Regards,

Kevin

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by kevins2

Hi Dan,

When I was working on my car, I rolled the shoulder harnesses up and put a rubber band around them to keep them out of the way. Not as convenient as having them removeable, but worked for me.

Certainly a workable and less expensive alternative.