I am in the market . . .

[Got the Bug]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Go with the dual roll bars. At least on my ERA, they unbolt in five minutes and give you the ability to "convert your look."

From 100% safety to 0% safety in five minutes...pretty cool. Assuming you only remove them for show or parade purposes.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Got the Bug

From 100% safety to 0% safety in five minutes...pretty cool. Assuming you only remove them for show or parade purposes.

Rest assured, I do not drive without roll bars (both of them). But I have to say that the no-roll bar look is quite fetching.

[Got the Bug]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Rest assured, I do not drive without roll bars (both of them). But I have to say that the no-roll bar look is quite fetching.

Maybe you should trying throwing people a curve ball, and drive with the passenger roll bar only.

[RodKnock]

Actually, he should make the car fully remote and then he and his children can drive it like a drone, thus no need for any roll bars.

[Got the Bug]

Originally Posted by rodknock

actually, he should make the car fully remote and then he and his children can drive it like a drone, thus no need for any roll bars.

Excellent idea.

[strictlypersonl]

He could hire me to drive the car around for him. I don't need no stinkin' roll bar(s) to make a fool of myself.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by strictlypersonl

He could hire me to drive the car around for him. I don't need no stinkin' roll bar(s) to make a fool of myself.

Uhh, Bob... remember, I had everything bolted in to place to fit me. Nothing's adjustable. You would have to borrow that funny foam rubber "seat within a seat" thing that Doug made so he could test drive it. Now that would be embarassing.

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by strictlypersonl

I don't need no stinkin' roll bar(s) to make a fool of myself.

Ooooh. That must hurt, especially coming from the highly-respected people of New Britain, CT.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

Ooooh. That must hurt, especially coming from the highly-respected people of New Britain, CT.

No, you misread it. It was actually a compliment.

[Rickd]

Dallas - I'd take a closer look at the ERA in California. #675. That car has an actual 427 sideoiler motor - I know a guy in Florida who had a couple of those - very rare motors - and he was selling them for $20 - $25k. The car also has the ERA custom rear end - check it out on their web site - it is a jewell - a piece of art. An aluminum housing that the differential is mounted in - with oversized outboard brakes. That car ALSO has a Richmond Gear heavy duty racing transmission. It is a super smooth transmission to drive, has really nice gear ratios and an Overdrive (5th gear) that is around a .73, which is not so exaggeratedly low as the .64 in many Tremec's. The Richmond gear is a more expensive tranny. This ERA is a very very well laid out car. You can always try and negotiate price a little as well - but this motor, rear end, and tranny combination is nothing but the best. That 427 should last forever - a ton of torque - and not 'forcing' big HP numbers and torque out of an overstroked small block. Reliability. The car has 2,500 miles on it - it isn't even broken in. That car would cost probably close to $75 - 80 K to duplicate. Also the ERA - in my opinion - does have THE most rigid chassis in the business. The 3" * 4" rectangular tube chassis - with the " X " cross member under the cockpit - is spectacular (most others use 2" * 4" rect tube or round tube). Add to that that the ERA is about the ONLY replica out there using chassis members that wrap up to shoulder height and around the passenger compartment. The door latches - they are mounted on a steel plate that is bolted to a steel chassis member. Most other 'replicas' mount the door latches (not the hinge) onto glass pads bonded to the body. You could pick up the ERA by the door latches. Details details. I recommend that you take a day and visit the factory in New Britain Ct. You will see the details that make it a superior machine. That car in California is a very special one - man I wouldn't let that one get away. My opinion, and hey, it's fun to look.

[jeffy]

I agree with Rickd - if you want a pre-built 427, that's the one to grab. Unlikely a better deal will come along anytime soon.

[ZOERA-SC7XX]

You guys did a great job of leading the horse to water. Now it's up to him to drink. Sounds to me like he's not quite ready to drink (buy).

[ERA Tom]

Hello Dallas. I am the owner of the black ERA 675 that's for sale. As it's been said before, for some it's driving the car, for some it's building the car, for some it's both. I'm more the builder type.

My advise is regadless of what brand you buy, buy the best that you can afford, wait until you can buy a top quality car, don't go cheap. Don't over do it on the horsepower, these cars are crazy fast with modest mills. I would suggest a moderately twiked big block to a streched out small block for a street car, as the big block will provide plenty of street friendly torque and a top speed that will blure your eyes. I think that the small block makes a better racing engine due to weight bias and quicker rpm's between corners.

Finally, I would check with Curt Scott at Cobra Country to see if he is still publishing the Cobra buyer's guide. It gives a great overview of the twenty top brands. If you have any questions or need any advise my phone number is in the ad for ERA 675. - Tom

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by ERA Tom

My advise is regadless of what brand you buy, buy the best that you can afford, wait until you can buy a top quality car, don't go cheap. Don't over do it on the horsepower, these cars are crazy fast with modest mills.

We've been harping on that for years, and for some reason guys just won't listen -- even though that advice is absolute gold. Tom, your car is gorgeous. I'm tempted to buy it myself as a stablemate.

[Mooch]

Originally Posted by patrickt

We've been harping on that for years, and for some reason guys just won't listen -- even though that advice is absolute gold.

Which part? The "buy the best that you can afford" or the "Don't over do it on the horsepower"

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Mooch

Which part? The "buy the best that you can afford" or the "Don't over do it on the horsepower"

Really, both. But between those two pearls of wisdom I would say the "don't overdo it on the horsepower" is the more important. I say that because the impact of "overdoing the horsepower" will act as a subtle psychological deterrent to driving the car. It will actually take away from the enjoyment, rather than adding to it. While buying a little less car than you can afford will generally just whet your appetite for the next level up -- which is a good thing. With a car that only weighs 2500 lbs. or less, anything even in the 300+ horsepower range is going to be plenty. 400, more than plenty. 500? C'mon. I don't think any of us with even the weakest FEs on the road can stand on a WOT above 3000 RPM and slowly count to three on the street. And with most of the big block builds coming out of the well-known builders on this forum you can't stick WOT at all without busting your rear loose.

[WardL]

I've seen too many extremely low mileage Cobras to think they are not being driven. One of the reasons we love these cars is because we can do anything we want. I just bought an SPF with 1,700 miles. As it was being put on the transport truck, we were talking. Maybe about the speedo bouncing..... He said something like, yeah, all the speedos bounce a little. I had two replaced before this one. Oh? I didn't ask "So how many miles might you have had on each of the two previous speedos?". I don't mean to say anyone is dishonest, but it could happen.....

[blykins]

As long as you can make a lot of horsepower without making an engine fussy or finicky, I'd go for it. A 500hp 347 isn't the most streetable thing in the world, but a 500hp 482 FE is.

The truth be known, if you aim for 300/400 hp now, you'll want more a year down the road. I'd rather have more horsepower now. You have a gas pedal. It doesn't have to be pushed to the floor all the time. ;-)

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by blykins

A I'd rather have more horsepower now.

You're an old, jaded pro. For the new kids on the block that have to ask, I say keep it in the low 400s to start. You can always add more power down the road.

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by patrickt

You're an old, jaded pro. For the new kids on the block that have to ask, I say keep it in the low 400s to start. You can always add more power down the road.

Even if your starting point is over 600+ HP, I/you will still want more down the road.

I really want one of those new Cammers with 700 HP.