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3Likes

03-03-2014, 08:51 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,533
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Not Ranked
Jim - in response to your PM here are some pictures from when I was bonding the body that show the heater hose holes in the fiberglass firewall and aluminum skin.
The two holes just below the main electrical cable entrance are for the heater. I believe the three screw holes around it are the one to secure the heater - one to either side and one below. Assuming ERA supplied the same heater to you as they did in my kit, they should be the same on the template.
This is of the firewall behind the aluminum. The lower heater support screw is below the steel tube cross bar and only penetrates aluminum. The threaded coupler allows adjustment to make up for the thinner section in that area.
Here is another picture of the interior with the heater mounted. I took hundreds of photos but still managed to miss a lot of good detail shots I could have taken.
Hope this helps.
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03-03-2014, 02:30 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Canandaigua,
NY
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF MKII Riverside Racer FIA
Posts: 2,507
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Not Ranked
Dan,
Thanks, that helps a lot. I imagine that the template and screw layout is the same. Just got off the phone with Doug at ERA, Bob had left already and he talked me through it. I am planning on starting work this weekend when it warms up. I will take all the photos that I can.
Jim
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03-03-2014, 02:56 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1795
Dan,
Thanks, that helps a lot. I imagine that the template and screw layout is the same. Just got off the phone with Doug at ERA, Bob had left already and he talked me through it. I am planning on starting work this weekend when it warms up. I will take all the photos that I can.
Jim
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How far did he think you needed to pull out the dash?
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03-03-2014, 03:56 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Canandaigua,
NY
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF MKII Riverside Racer FIA
Posts: 2,507
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Not Ranked
He thought that I would just have to disconnect it, so that it was loose and cut a few cable ties on the wiring harness to loosen things up. He said that I may have to unbolt the windshield and tip it forward to access the screws on the deflectors for hooking up the vent tubes; however I found this nifty little right angle Phillips had ratchet that may have enough clearance to get the job done without loosening the windshield. Will let you guys know in a few days, it is single digits out right now and will be below zero tonight. A little too cold for me to be messing around with things.
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03-03-2014, 04:02 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1795
He said that I may have to unbolt the windshield and tip it forward to access the screws on the deflectors for hooking up the vent tubes; however I found this nifty little right angle Phillips had ratchet that may have enough clearance to get the job done without loosening the windshield.
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Oh, wow, you're right. I hadn't even thought of that part of the job. Doing anything on these cars is a PITA.
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03-03-2014, 04:24 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Canandaigua,
NY
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF MKII Riverside Racer FIA
Posts: 2,507
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Not Ranked
They sure can be a PITA, but it is my PITA now and I am enjoying every minute of it  I have always been a glutton for punishment 
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03-03-2014, 04:37 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,533
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Not Ranked
I forgot about the defroster vent screws securing the defroster ducts also. It's pretty tight in there - if you do decide to lean the windshield forward (which is really pretty simple) I would put a strip of masking tape at the front of the seal all the way across. The seal will slide forward as the windshield is stood up and any dust or dirt trapped under the edge of the seal will be pushed across the paint, scratching it. I would slip the edge of the tape just slightly under the edge of the rubber before you move it.
Do you have a glove box? Is so and if you decide not to pull the dash completely, you might want to remove the glove box - I think there are just two screws in the back of it. That will free up a lot of access to work with. I know I mentioned it before, but those defroster hoses are really stiff and difficult to work into position while screwing the defroster ducts into position.
Dan
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03-03-2014, 05:05 PM
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Senile Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Buffalo, NY USA,
NY
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance
Posts: 4,568
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1795
. A little too cold for me to be messing around with things.
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Candy Arse. It is over 10 degrees F! Go forth and drill!!!!
Of course we do have a heated building............ 
__________________
"I'm high all right, but on the real thing....powerful gasoline and a clean windshield..."
rick@autoventureusa.net
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03-03-2014, 05:46 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Canandaigua,
NY
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF MKII Riverside Racer FIA
Posts: 2,507
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Not Ranked
Now if you are offering your heated facilities.....  ...I will gladly bring my candy arse your way.... 
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03-03-2014, 06:55 PM
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Senile Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Buffalo, NY USA,
NY
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance
Posts: 4,568
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Not Ranked
Welcome to use it. I can give you a door lock code......of course you need to drive the ERA 50 miles in sub freezing temps, but hey, no problem.....I don't have to do it!
__________________
"I'm high all right, but on the real thing....powerful gasoline and a clean windshield..."
rick@autoventureusa.net
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