My number is coming up at ERA, options / order advice?

[kevins2]

Originally Posted by Bearwolf

...As for heated seats, is this something that can be done to the ERA seats or would I have to buy different ones? I hear ERA's street seats are some of the best around...

ERA makes their seats in-house so, rather than take them apart, I had the heated seat pads delivered to them to put in the seats as they were being built. Can't remember what they charged me but it wasn't much.

Kevin

[fastd]

x2 on buying a used one...there are a couple out there now that are reasonably priced and you'll save a bunch...also, you can still get your hands dirty by making it perfect...

[1795]

I had the soft top and side curtains and the heater worked nicely with both of them on during cold weather drives.

[Bearwolf]

Troy, yes, it's me, Don. I couldn't decide what I wanted to use for a handle so I just used a nickname from a past life as a Marine that I thought sounded somewhat cool at the time. You're absolutely correct about my finished product goal looking nearly identical to yours. The only way to tell then apart will probably be my lack of carpet and I'll need to split the trunk lid so I can a run a LeMans top.

I do definatly want a period correct look and feel to the car, if that makes sense. Is there anything you can think of that is a must order now item as far as being a faithful period looking car? I know the 17" PS wheels you sold me aren't exactly period but they're more for being able to find cheap trackable rubber, I'll run 15" FIAs on the street.

I've been having trouble deciding between vinyl and leather. Obviously vinyl is cheaper but leather would be correct. Is it noticable?

I like the idea on running without paint for a couple of seasons. That'll get me on the road a lit quicker. Seeing most ERA cars are painted after bonding there probably wouldn't be a lot of added struggle to paint it after it's a running car anyway.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by 1795

I had the soft top and side curtains and the heater worked nicely with both of them on during cold weather drives.

I've done the same a couple of times, it gives the car an entirely different look that is quite cool. But his money is better spent elsewhere.

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by Bearwolf

I've been having trouble deciding between vinyl and leather. Obviously vinyl is cheaper but leather would be correct. Is it noticable?

I like the idea on running without paint for a couple of seasons. That'll get me on the road a lit quicker. Seeing most ERA cars are painted after bonding there probably wouldn't be a lot of added struggle to paint it after it's a running car anyway.

The 427 SC cars used vinyl upholstery from memory. It may be that FIA cars, since they were intended for competition, may have also had vinyl seats. Possibly a question for the "Originality" section of the forum.

You typically need to paint after bonding the body and frame. There are a few areas that rivet after bonding - most notably the rocker panels to the frame outrigger tubing but also a couple places in the nose. I guess it would always be possible to carefully drill and rivet the rockers later and leave exposed bare rivet heads or carefully touch them up with a brush and touch up paint.

[tgandy]

The FIA seats are naugahyde on fiberglass buckets There's an option of vinyl or leather street seats. If you want to go as period correct as possible and watch your budget, then it's the naugahyde.

[dacobb]

My two cents...I would have ERA bond the body. Will help with resale, and they can do it better than you.

[66gtk]

Originally Posted by dacobb

My two cents...I would have ERA bond the body. Will help with resale, and they can do it better than you.

Plus you will double your garage space requirements and shipping difficulties by bonding it yourself.

[tgandy]

Does ERA bond the body before it's initially shipped or do you have to ship it back to them for bonding? Terry

[strictlypersonl]

Originally Posted by tgandy

Does ERA bond the body before it's initially shipped or do you have to ship it back to them for bonding? Terry

We bond the body (and also bond the aluminum and foot-boxes) before the kit is delivered. The hood, trunk and doors are also installed, although some adjustments might be required during the bodywork process.
Kit as shipped

[Bearwolf]

For clarification, if the kit comes not bonded, is it still shipped in like the car in the link, with everything in place, or is it all separate? I'm wondering because someone mentioned extra shipping hassle if the body doesnt get bonded.

[DanEC]

Some misinformation here. If you order the car un-bonded, it still comes assembled body to frame with all metal panels loosely screwed in place ( such as screws in corners etc). There are metal clips positioning the body on the frame. There is no reason to remove the body from the frame unless you just want to, to completely undercoat it or something. The assembly clips are your alignment jigs for returning the body to correct alignment when bonding. There's no reason for additional garage space - my body never left the frame during my build. I pre-drilled the rivet holes at the boding points, removed the screws securing the body to the positioning clips, raised the body slightly with wooden shims, injected the epoxy into all the bonding spaces, pulled the shims and lowered the body back down (like about 1/4 inch), secured the clips which puts the body in perfect position and then installed the additional rivets per ERA's instructions. I bonded and riveted the rockers as a second operation. I'm telling you it's so dead simple that anyone who can't handle it needs to buy a completely assembled car. And if that is what you prefer to do then there's nothing wrong with that.

Go to the first page of my photo album link below and you will see exactly how it's shipped in-bonded. There are also pictures of my bonding the body.

[1985 CCX]

Here is my two cents

Bond body at ERA
Outboard rear end
6 pin hubs
Best brakes you can afford

Best seats in the business, treat as such....

[Bearwolf]

So it sounds like anyone on here who has bonded a body says it's no sweat. Being the type of guy I am, who really prefers to touch every single nut and bolt with my own hands, I think I'll bond it myself. I know ERA are pros and resale and what not, but building cars is half the enjoyment for me.

What about the 6 pin hubs? By that I mean, more than one person said it'll be cheaper to do them with the car. Is this still the case if I'm building the rear suspension myself? If I order the 6 pin stuff when I get around to building the suspension will it actually be more expensive or are they just saying its cheaper to build it with 6 pins than to build it with 5x4.75 lugs and then convert?

You guys really have me considering dropping the street seats and going with the FIA seats. I might have to fly out to ERA and see if they'll let me sit in both.

[Bearwolf]

Also, it looks like there is a $4×× fee in my quote to install the roll bar. I know the roll bar comes with the FIA kit,is it worth that much to have them install it or is it pretty simple if I have access to a good welder?

[patrickt]

If you "convert" to six pin hubs at a later date, you will be buying new wheels as well. Mucho expensive.

[patrickt]

... along with the hubs, hats, caps, bearings, seals and maybe even the rotors. Bob will throw in the cotter pins. If I "ballparked" it for you I would say that little upgrade down the road is in the neighborhood of five grand, give or take.

[patrickt]

No hats and rotors with the inboard brakes, so that will shave a couple of hundred....

[66gtk]

Have ERA fit your rollbar. They are each fitted uniquely to every car. Get the 6 PIN setup now. You definitely need to sit in the comp seats if you are considering them. They wouldn't be my choice for a street driven car, but they look right and are functional for keeping your ass in the seat on the track.