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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 11-08-2003, 08:17 AM
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De,
Any news from Bob is good news at this point. I figured he'd be very busy with ERA-only work. Thanks for the update.
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Old 11-08-2003, 09:09 AM
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I'm not sure if this is what Mr. Putnam is referring to, but it's possible...Mustang GTs, starting somewhere around '84 ('85 fer sure) had such a dampner attached to a bracket welded to the rear & another on the frame. Check one out!

BREAKING NEWS! It just so happens I've come up with a drawing for the Mustang damper from one of my Helms manuals. It's in Gif format, I don't know how to post it. Send me an e-mail at dankirsch@surfbest.net, and I'll send you a scan.

Dan

Last edited by Carnut427; 11-08-2003 at 09:25 AM..
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 11-08-2003, 09:36 AM
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Default Upper stabilizer setup on this one...

Check out the hubs and upper stabilizer bar setup on this custom jag rear assembly. The differential is for sale on ClubCobra right now... Attached fore/aft. I would think this would stabilize it a bit more. ????

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Old 11-08-2003, 09:42 AM
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Ooops. Here it is...
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 11-08-2003, 10:07 AM
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That appears to be a Watts Link setup, such as Contemporary had. I believe Bob stated that wouldn't work with the ERA unit because the ERA unit must retain some flexibility?

Dan
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Old 11-08-2003, 12:14 PM
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I'm very close to having the pieces designed. If I have time, I'll finish them tomorrow.
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Old 11-08-2003, 12:19 PM
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Thank You! We appreciate it.
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Old 11-09-2003, 11:27 AM
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Bob,
THANKS FOR YOUR TIME AND EFFORTS.
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Old 11-09-2003, 02:07 PM
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Default Hub-Top fixture

Haven't measured it yet to get an idea what it would be like, but I'm wondering if the triangular hub-top fixture (if thats what it is pictured here) will allow for enough clearance away from inside of the wheel/tire? And, enough clearance for the dampner/arm too from hitting the high spot on the tire?

I only say this because the hub sits inside the wheel a bit....we'll need to see if BP is going to do a mock-up of the design or not...
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Old 11-09-2003, 02:51 PM
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The leading damper has almpst the same clearance as the trailing arm of our outboard system. The illustration below shows a 12" wide tire - roughly a 295-50 on a 10" wheel. There might be a clearance problem with a typical 335-35 on an 11.5" x 17" wheel though.

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Old 11-09-2003, 04:18 PM
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I see, so there will be a bit of an angle to it. Makes sense, and the top perch mounting point on the hub would have a slight pitch to it... I would guess... In my case, I run 10" wide tires on back... Thanks.
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Old 11-10-2003, 12:31 AM
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Default 4 link bars

Decooney Hi Duane I am looking for pictures of Dave S. cobra He has a 4 link on the back of his car. for drag racing. It has custom hubs like the ERA setup. I have a set of contemps for my car. I now have the 17" tires on it. You have too find the pivot point on the chassic to give free up and down movement of the rear tires. I beleive total travel for the tire is about 2 inches. I know that daves car has solid heim joints instead of rubber mounts. I believe that you can mount a bracket to the frame in the front of the cradle that will clear everything. I am going to try this in the spring. If you get wheel hop, I would soften the shocks and make the car squat harder for brutial acceleration. Check the tires for the correct air pressure. I race my 17" pilots with 20 psi in the rear and no problem. I only leave the line at 1500 rpm, any higher and the tires go up in smoke. Chassic works sells all the brackets premade, different styles and sizes for what you need. The rear needs to travel up and down without tilting or moving forward on 1 side. Duane let me know how your brackets work. Thanks Rick Lake ps The quad shock on the mustang didnot work very well because of the lay down design. The shocking would air bound. The shock only worked about 30 percent. There is a fomula for degree and effect of shocks and how they work. I will see if I can find the article on this.
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Old 11-10-2003, 09:44 AM
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The idea of the quad shock was to dampen the rear so that it wouldn't rotate. I had one, and it worked fine on the street, unless I ran through a patch of water. I never put slicks on the car.
Good Luck,

Dan
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Old 11-10-2003, 10:19 AM
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Hi Rick,
Set soft - it gets worse. Set firm - a little better, but it still hops.

On my Unique, I had the rear trailing arm setup and it never hopped under load or in the rain. It was solid mounted to the frame, and not in a a subframe arrangement like the ERA has. I like the subframe concept, but obviously things are moving around or "oscilating" as BP stated to me on the phone.

I'd be curious to know how well the Watts Link worked and IF it DID eliminate wheel hop for those cars that had/have it?
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Old 11-10-2003, 02:10 PM
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I haven't had a chance to make a prototype, but I've posted the dxf's for the brackets: http://www.erareplicas.com/427man/jagrear/tork.zip
I can't guarantee that it will fit (or work) - only that I've done my best under pressure. It will probably be at least a couple of weeks before I can make the brackets myself.
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Old 11-10-2003, 04:04 PM
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Default Converted...

I took the liberty of unzipping and converting the .dxf files so I could post it for others to see what you came up with. Please confirm if this is how it's suppose to look or if something was lost in translation?. It came out as 1D, like this. Thanks, Duane
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Old 11-10-2003, 05:48 PM
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Duane,
Let us know if these work I know lots of us are wondering.
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Old 11-10-2003, 06:31 PM
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Hey Mike,
...we still need a few more details on the dampner style, specs for that, and the relationship to the fixtures. Or, to see if a solid heim joint style rod could be used.. Sounds like a dampner is recommended instead though. A little bit more each week, time permitting...
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Old 11-11-2003, 03:53 AM
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The system is designed to use the Mustang "quad" shock. Length- 12.2" compressed, 14.5" extended, with 12mm eyes. There may be HD units available with rod ends but the length must be variable.

The hub carrier bracket is attached by drilling and tapping the hub carrier. There's not a lot of clearance for inside nuts, although in a pinch there're some flange nuts or helicoils that could be used for reinforcement in the aluminum.

The chassis bracket is attached with 5 threaded inserts. A large clearance hole must be made behind the internal (welded) nut. It's all pretty easy to install.

I will post assembly templates and directions when I have time.

Last edited by strictlypersonl; 11-11-2003 at 03:57 AM..
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Old 11-11-2003, 07:41 AM
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Does this mean that the Spax coil overs that I have wont work?
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