Club Cobra Keith Craft Racing  

Go Back   Club Cobra > Manufacturers, Engine Builders, tools, and parts. > ERA---Speak with Bob Putnam

Keith Craft Racing
Nevada Classics
MMG Superformance
Main Menu
Module Jump:
Nevada Classics
Nevada Classics
MMG Superformance
MMG Superformance
Advertise at CC
Banner Ad Rates
MMG Superformance
MMG Superformance
MMG Superformance
MMG Superformance
March 2024
S M T W T F S
          1 2
3 4 5 6 7 8 9
10 11 12 13 14 15 16
17 18 19 20 21 22 23
24 25 26 27 28 29 30
31            
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2004, 10:09 PM
joea's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Oceanside, CA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #676, 428SCJ (2x4), TKOII
Posts: 642
Not Ranked     
Default Electrical Gremlin

I seem to have a little electrical gremlin that likes to mess with me on occasion and then leave. I had a problem one day where I turned the key and nothing happened...no ignition light, starter did not turn on, however the fans and horn was working. While trying to debug I was testing for voltage at the ignition switch. WHile touching the probe to the ignition hot wire it sparked (I must have grounded the probe against the dash support). After that all systems were go, car started everything was fine.

Tonight I took my wife for a ride and it was dusk as we were getting near home. I had the lights on and idling at a traffic light. Next thing I know..everything dies, lights, engine, everything. I jumped out of the car to signal traffic that I was stuck and to go around me. I was nervous as hell because it was pretty dark and visibility was not great. I looked back to the car and I noticed the lights back on...I jumped in, turned the key, it fired up and I drove home without further incident.

How should I trace this sporatic problem so I don't get stuck in a situation like this again?
__________________




"There are 10 types of people out there....the ones that understand binary and the zeros that don't."
Reply With Quote
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2004, 04:12 AM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: New Britain, CT
Cobra Make, Engine: Size 10 Feet
Posts: 2,993
Not Ranked     
Default

Joe,

First, check the wire connections on both sides of fuse one and two, the connections at the circuit breaker and on the starter solenoid.

Make sure that the connections at the ammeter are secure.

If everything looks good, you may have a bad ignition switch or circuit breaker.

I'm betting on a bad ignition switch.
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2004, 04:57 AM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: E BRUNSWICK N.J. USA,
Posts: 3,841
Not Ranked     
Default

Joea Joe check all your power feeds for tight connections. I would start with the battery cables first. Sounds like a loose connection. Do you have a master battery kill switch? Once the car is running it uses the Alt to keep running and recharge the battery at the same time. Do a basic check before you start going crazy down the wrong road. The igntion switch can be tested with a test light for what Bob is talking about. May sure the Alt output wire to the battery side of the starter soleniod is clean and tight. If you don't find the problem come back with what you have found. Rick Lake
Reply With Quote
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2004, 05:18 AM
Ron61's Avatar
Senior Club Cobra Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Shasta Lake, CA
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 26,552
Not Ranked     
Post

Joea,

If you have the saftety lock out switch on your transmission make sure that it is ok and the wires are tight. I had a similiar trouble once and one of the connectors to the safety lock out switch had worked loose. I just replaced it and never had another problem. Just my little bit.

Ron
__________________
Ron 61
Ronnie Widener


View my Miscellaneous Gallery
Reply With Quote
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2004, 07:30 AM
joea's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Oceanside, CA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #676, 428SCJ (2x4), TKOII
Posts: 642
Not Ranked     
Default

Thanks for the advise. I will check all the possibilities mentioned and report back next week...I'm off to watch vintage racing here in San Diego today!
__________________




"There are 10 types of people out there....the ones that understand binary and the zeros that don't."
Reply With Quote
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2004, 11:48 AM
Rick Parker's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: California, Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: NAF 289 Slabside Early Comp Car with 289 Webers and all the goodies. Cancelling the efforts of several Priuses
Posts: 6,592
Not Ranked     
Default

Noting your location and that you have an ERA. The fuse block location of an ERA leaves it open to the outdoor elements (not intended to be a criticism but rather an observation). I would do exactly as Bob suggested and check continuity at the fuses. The damp air over time, has in the past, caused a mild corrosion issue for the fuse controling the tail lights for me. Just clean the fuse ends with a little 600 wet or dry sandpaper.

Rick
__________________
Rick

As you slide down the Banister of Life, may the splinters never be pointing the wrong way

Last edited by Rick Parker; 10-10-2004 at 03:17 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2004, 05:11 PM
joea's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Oceanside, CA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #676, 428SCJ (2x4), TKOII
Posts: 642
Not Ranked     
Default

OK...finally finished putting UCOAT-IT on the garage floor and was able to get back to the Cobra and have a look at this electrical issue...GOOD NEWS>...I located the issue.

The issue is at the large red connector on the harness (with the yellow and red wires). I started it up today after reseating all connections and as it was running I lifted the harness a little at this connection. The engine immediately cut out...as I let go...the engine would pick up and run again. I did this a few times so I am sure the issue is at this connector.

Any suggestions on what to do about it?
__________________




"There are 10 types of people out there....the ones that understand binary and the zeros that don't."
Reply With Quote
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2004, 05:22 AM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: New Britain, CT
Cobra Make, Engine: Size 10 Feet
Posts: 2,993
Not Ranked     
Default

Joe,

Pull the connector apart and look inside each half. Make sure that the contacts are "latched" over the small tang.

You can add a little electrical grease on the contacts, but that shouldn't be necessary for the under-dash connections.

Reply With Quote
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2004, 07:06 AM
joea's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Oceanside, CA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #676, 428SCJ (2x4), TKOII
Posts: 642
Not Ranked     
Default

Thanks Bob..I'll have a look tonight. BTW...What color should these contacts be? Mine have a strange yellowish-white color to them...not copper looking by any means.
__________________




"There are 10 types of people out there....the ones that understand binary and the zeros that don't."
Reply With Quote
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2004, 09:34 AM
MOTORHEAD's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: BRADENTON, FL
Cobra Make, Engine: KIRKHAM 427 S/C, SHELBY 427 ALUM. STROKER
Posts: 1,396
Not Ranked     
Default

Contacts should be copper, brass, or tinned (silver). That connection is probably burned from high current and making intermittent/high resistance connection. Cut bothe ends of the connector off and connect the ends of the wires with a marine butt connector, or solder them together and seal with tape and liquid electrical tape. No more problem!!!
__________________
"When Injustice becomes Law,
Rebellion becomes Duty." T. Jefferson
Reply With Quote
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2004, 10:15 AM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: New Britain, CT
Cobra Make, Engine: Size 10 Feet
Posts: 2,993
Not Ranked     
Default

The contacts are rated at 75A and have given us no problems at all. Normally they're silver-colored.

If you permanently connect the wires, you'll lose the ability to remove the dash without completely disonnecting all the switches/gages.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:23 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: CC Policy
Links monetized by VigLink