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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2009, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1985 CCX View Post
Tim

Keep in mind if you are looking for a 289 block you have a far larger transmission choice with a 6-bolt block (ie: Post 1964.5 yr) as the 5-bolt block requires a different bellhousing and the T10 has an early bolt pattern unlike the T10 associated with 6-bolt block.

I have an early T10 and need a 5-bolt block which is limiting. Good for authentic discussion however limiting with engine choice. Hindsight being 20/20 I would have went toploader or later T10 as 289/302's with 6-bolt block are easier to come by.

Best in your decision...


Jeff,

Thanks for the info ...

Good point on the 5 bolt vs 6 bolt 289 blocks, I read about the differences and I would definitely go for a 6 bolt block and have more transmission choices.

Initially I was focussed on having a 289 and am still considering that option. The other way I may go, is to start with a new 302 block & crank, select some good heads and leave it at 'just' 302 cu in. With the proper carb, intake manifold and cam, it should make decent power.

My understanding is that aside from casting numbers, the only major difference between a 289 block and 302 block is the skirt length. If that is the case, then I suppose with a 289 crank and a 302 block one could have a 289 that way as well.

Just curious ... but are 'new' 289 cranks available?


- Tim
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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2009, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkb289 View Post
Jeff,

Thanks for the info ...

Good point on the 5 bolt vs 6 bolt 289 blocks, I read about the differences and I would definitely go for a 6 bolt block and have more transmission choices.

Initially I was focussed on having a 289 and am still considering that option. The other way I may go, is to start with a new 302 block & crank, select some good heads and leave it at 'just' 302 cu in. With the proper carb, intake manifold and cam, it should make decent power.

My understanding is that aside from casting numbers, the only major difference between a 289 block and 302 block is the skirt length. If that is the case, then I suppose with a 289 crank and a 302 block one could have a 289 that way as well.

Just curious ... but are 'new' 289 cranks available?


- Tim
Tim, you may be able to find an NOS 289 standard or Hipo crank out there in the market. Additionally, you could conceivably get a machine shop to grind any type of crank you want brand new too.

I think a vintage 289/302 block or a new 302 (5.0 roller block-no ZDDP worries) is a great way to go. It's your build and you build it the way you want in order to make yourself happy.
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 11-10-2009, 09:02 PM
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They repro just about everything these days but some stuff they dont. -- there are still holes in the 289 hipo land.

Tim , is there a particular year/race car you are trying to emulate >?

Specifically in engine land , there are a few key items that will point your build in a particular direction.

like , some of the early 289s had an oil fill in the front timing cover, and solid (no holes) in the valve cover.

I have several various vintage 289 blocks and can show you the differences in person. --

Larry is working on a vintage 289 build right now for a customer that would be a good reference piece for this project.

I also am working up a 289 D code build here in the next few weeks as we have a 64.5 convertible we are working on with a build date of 4.16.64.

(made the night before the mustang was released)

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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2009, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by PANAVIA View Post
They repro just about everything these days but some stuff they dont. -- there are still holes in the 289 hipo land.

Tim , is there a particular year/race car you are trying to emulate >?

Specifically in engine land , there are a few key items that will point your build in a particular direction.

like , some of the early 289s had an oil fill in the front timing cover, and solid (no holes) in the valve cover.

I have several various vintage 289 blocks and can show you the differences in person. --

Larry is working on a vintage 289 build right now for a customer that would be a good reference piece for this project.

I also am working up a 289 D code build here in the next few weeks as we have a 64.5 convertible we are working on with a build date of 4.16.64.

(made the night before the mustang was released)

Steve


Steve,

Not trying to duplicate a particular motor, just a 289 or 302 that looks close to the motors used back in the day, but that has modern internals like a roller cam and high performance aluminum heads (but with standard height valve covers).

It would be interesting to look at what you guys are up to ... send me a PM to let me know when you are in the shop and I'll stop by.


Thanks!

- Tim

P.S. A motor made on the eve of the Mustang Introduction ... now that's cool!
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 11-18-2009, 04:50 PM
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Hi Tim,

For my car I built a 289 with modern internals but trying to stay period correct. With aluminum heads, roller cam and stock style valve covers. I had to buy a spacer for the roller rockers, this fit on top of the heads between the head and valve cover. I used the original crank. I had to use a 67 timing chain cover as the 64 -65 did not fit with the harmonic balancer I picked out. I also used the early style oil dipstick, they changed in 67 I believe. I did deviate from the original look with some after market March pulleys as I could not find a set that would line up appropriately. I even have an early style alternator case with new internals. My goal was to make the engine look period correct. The last item I need to change is the braided fuel line from the pump to the carb, I plan on modifying a steel line with the correct adapters.

So, it can be done, just have to pay attention to the little things that most folks won't even hone in on when they look at the motor.
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 11-18-2009, 05:35 PM
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Exactly what he said! If you're like a lot of you will start out being partially period correct & be obsessive about changing things over in time to become more period correct.
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 11-18-2009, 05:36 PM
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I used a 68 302 block stroked to 331. Look in my gallery. 289 or 302? The 68 block is a Windsor block. There was a shortage of 289 blocks so the stated using 302 blocks with 289 internals. The only person that will really know the difference is you. They usually don't get passed the Webers.
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 11-18-2009, 05:52 PM
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One thing I forgot to mention, if you use the older style water pump, as I did, tell era if you are doing the plumbing as it requires a different style lower radiator hose routing than what is the "norm". Most folks use the newer style water pump which exits on the opposite side. Era has the hoses for both styles
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 11-18-2009, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Snakebit View Post
I used a 68 302 block stroked to 331. Look in my gallery. 289 or 302? The 68 block is a Windsor block. There was a shortage of 289 blocks so the stated using 302 blocks with 289 internals. The only person that will really know the difference is you. They usually don't get passed the Webers.

I took a look in your gallery ... you are right about the Webers ... they certainly attract a lot of attention, very cool

- Tim
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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 11-18-2009, 11:06 PM
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Hi Tim,

For my car I built a 289 with modern internals but trying to stay period correct. With aluminum heads, roller cam and stock style valve covers. I had to buy a spacer for the roller rockers, this fit on top of the heads between the head and valve cover. I used the original crank. I had to use a 67 timing chain cover as the 64 -65 did not fit with the harmonic balancer I picked out. I also used the early style oil dipstick, they changed in 67 I believe. I did deviate from the original look with some after market March pulleys as I could not find a set that would line up appropriately. I even have an early style alternator case with new internals. My goal was to make the engine look period correct. The last item I need to change is the braided fuel line from the pump to the carb, I plan on modifying a steel line with the correct adapters.

So, it can be done, just have to pay attention to the little things that most folks won't even hone in on when they look at the motor.

marcalan ...

What you and Hyde bring up is a good point about period correct, I could see how it could evolve into an obsession. I like the combination of the old school look, but with upgraded or more modern internal bits. The car itself is a perfect example ... a very stiff, well braced square tube chassis, wrapped in a very authentic looking body, the best of both worlds.

Which aluminum heads did you use?

Thanks.

- Tim
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2009, 02:46 AM
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marcalan --pictures anywhere of this LBJ period piece >?
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Old 11-19-2009, 06:12 AM
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Tim,

I am using AFR heads, 165cc heads 1.900 intake valves and 1.600 exhaust valves. they come with 58cc combustion chambers and 68cc exhaust ports (direct from AFR website).

Steve as to the picture of the water pump, a pm is being sent to you. As it was explained to me the newer 5.0 cars have radiators that are cross flow while the older ones are not, inlet outlet on the same side. This requires a different lower radiator setup from era.
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Old 11-20-2009, 07:59 PM
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Time for another update. The guys are ERA have been hard at work. The body has been bonded to the frame! Recently, Frank (428street) was there and took some photos (thanks Frank!).

Earlier this week, Walt from Connecticut Custom picked up the car. I talked with Diane today and there are a couple of cars ahead of me for paint at CC. So as it stands now, 2136 will be first in line come early January ... more time for me to pick the color

- Tim


Body on Frame - 1



Body on Frame - 2
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Old 11-20-2009, 08:24 PM
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Flat purple with white stripes & Meatballs!!! I remember mine at that stage, pretty much, when I first received it. Nostalgia. You must be getting excited!
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Old 11-20-2009, 10:04 PM
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Flat purple with white stripes & Meatballs!!! I remember mine at that stage, pretty much, when I first received it. Nostalgia. You must be getting excited!

Hyde ... now that's a color combo that would certainly be unique!

It's starting to look like a car and once it's painted and back at ERA it will be even better!

Excited ... you bet!

- Tim
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Old 11-20-2009, 11:09 PM
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Since color has come up ;

Tim -- a few ideas for the BrainMill;

First Choice;
exterior ; Celeste Blue (a light metallic blue) a Ferrari Color from the late 1960s. Cherrier and lighter than a Elkhardt or a portofino blue.



Interior ; Navy Blue Leather interior / navy blue wool carpets.



OR-- -

-- "California Sage" classic lighter green metallic paint (Aston Martin colour from the 1960s')
Dark Forest green carpets and leathers.


CALIFORNIA SAGE on a DB4 GT Zagato.




or



Tungsten Grey (Ford Color 2005 Ford GT) no stripes



Interior : Oxblood leather seats, door panels and dash, with deep burgundy (matching) or black carpets.

Oxblood;



Steve
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Old 11-21-2009, 03:51 AM
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california sage!
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 11-21-2009, 08:04 AM
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Steve,

Nice color samples ... and what a great way to display them!

Anybody got any more?


- Tim
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Old 11-21-2009, 01:46 PM
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California Sage is a nice color! Maybe with Antique White Stripe & Aluminum or White Center FIA Wheels. & Dont forget the Black Soft top & Oxblood interior
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Old 01-07-2010, 11:54 PM
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Well, time for an update on 2136 ...

I got a call yesterday from Diane at Connecticut Custom and they were actually able to start work on my car before the holiday break. The bodywork is being finished up, then next is a polyester sealer.

When I visited their shop in August, it was a beautiful 75 degree day ... good thing they have a heated paint booth and oven to bake the car ... looks likes it's below freezing !

So I have about (2) more weeks, then I need to give Diane a color ...

It's down to:

- Indigo
- Vista Blue (late model Mustang color)
- Navy Blue
- or ???

It will be a solid color, no stripes and no hood scoop. The 'bling' will be the grill and silver fender vents. If I go with the FIA wheels, the webs painted white look pretty darn cool.

Or, if I can find some to fit, perhaps some pin drive Torque Thrust D wheels, with a polished rim and black spokes.

Or maybe both sets of wheels ... Hope my wife isn't reading this
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