ford fe starter index question

[wrench87]

also it is starting to leave a mark on the starter gear?.

[patrickt]

I don't know why that wouldn't just release back -- it doesn't look jammed up to me. Now, I have never owned a CVR starter, and I don't know anything about them other than a lot of FE guys seem to like them. I do know that there are some starters that do not disengage until the engine actually starts -- and if the engine doesn't start it stays engaged and just cranks from that position the next time around. I don't know if that's the case here, but it's something that popped in to my head so I'll just mention it.

[RICK LAKE]

wrench 87 with full engagement you only have 1/2 of the teeth in contact with the flywheel teeth. This is the same problem I had and broke the starter drive. You need FULL engagement. OEM starters have a longer throw than mini starters. You have 2 choice machine the starter housing to get more of the starter gear farther on to the teeth of the flywheel or trim out the back plate to get the extra depth you need. Pat again doesn't know what is going on. Pat BE QUIET!!!! 30 + years of auto work and a lawyer knows everything about motors. Rick L.

[patrickt]

Just buy the OEM starter like you see on mine. Rick, isn't that the easiest answer?

[RICK LAKE]

Pat WHY buy another starter that doesn't have the same power as a mini, about half the weight, about 1/3 the ampage draw to crank, and minis can crank over 16.0 compression motors without any problems because of gear reduction of about 4.40 - 1.0. I don't have any specs on wrenchs motor, do you?? How about on a hot day with a hot soak of that OEM starter and watch it draw 250-300 amps to crank. Oem starter turn one to one and some times that is just too much for the drives ,bushings, or bendix. There nothing wrong with what he is doing, just needs some good info for setup. Rick L.

[patrickt]

Alright Rick, don't have a cow.... He's got a rather mild FE; perfect for an OEM. But, let him grind away....

[wrench87]

ok here is what i found i did not reinstall everything but hoping what i found was the problem. on the quicktime blockplate they have 4 holes up top to go around the galley plugs well 3 the 4th hole does not go to anything , also the gallley plug right above the crank did not have a hole so between this and the rear cam plug was not fully seated on the left side it was holding the block plate away from the block, i drilled a hole for the bottom galley plug and seated the cam plug also the machinist installed silicone over the plug which made it worse, the plate no sits flush on its own. i hope this was it.

my engine is a 72 390 block .030 over 4.250 steel crank , eagle 6.7 rods diamond pistons slight dish 10.0 comp ratio a set of keith crafts stage i heads with a little more work done, edelbrock performer rpm port matched and flowed, comp cam hydraulic roller cam 598-617 lift 230-238 duration 112 lobe center, smith bro pushrods, crane t bar lifters, erson rockers ram aluminum flywheel ram big block chevy clutch my flywheel was drilled for it,
quick time 6056 bell housing, edelbrock water pump, msd 8594 dis i installed light silver and light blue spring with the silver bushing, i have not bought a carb yet going for a 750-850 mech secondary no choke or choke horn would like to run turkey pan but undecided. i have 8.8 irs 373 gears and a tremec 3550 trans with 26 spline input. i know tranny and gears are not ideal but that is what i was running with my 342 engine. steve