What's the appeal of an aluminum engine block?

[blykins]

Originally Posted by YerDugliness

While I've never had an aluminum block, my understanding is that reducing weight has influence on more than just power:weight ratio...braking and handling are enhanced when vehicle weight goes down.

When I first got my replica (bought it used, but in running condition) the previous owner had not adjusted the idle speed and it was idling at about 1500 RPM...every time I tried to make a turn on a road that had some sand or gravel on it, the vehicle "slid", for lack of a better descriptor. As my engine is all iron, I just attributed that to all the weight in the front of the car (my engine does not sit in the front "cradle" as far back as most, there is about half of the bell-housing visible as I view the back of the engine).

Perhaps the best advice I have gotten was something to the effect of: "Spend your $$ on good brakes and lightening the car, they'll never catch you!

I must admit that as I develop plans for the Clevor build, I always envision it with an all-aluminum block...perhaps that is not the best of ideas?

Cheers!

Dugly

Here's the thing.....Dart and Ford Racing make a lot of aluminum Windsor blocks. High quantity. I have a little more faith in them just because of the number of blocks that are sold and the fact that a very large company/foundry is casting them.

With that being said, a Dart aluminum block sells for about $6000. A For Racing block sells for $4200. Considering that you have to pay that much for one and you will actually make less horsepower with an aluminum block, if you're not shooting for a specific curb weight or racing in a class, my advice would be to pass....

[YerDugliness]

Originally Posted by blykins

Here's the thing.....Dart and Ford Racing make a lot of aluminum Windsor blocks. High quantity. I have a little more faith in them just because of the number of blocks that are sold and the fact that a very large company/foundry is casting them.

With that being said, a Dart aluminum block sells for about $6000. A For Racing block sells for $4200. Considering that you have to pay that much for one and you will actually make less horsepower with an aluminum block, if you're not shooting for a specific curb weight or racing in a class, my advice would be to pass....

Thanks for that info, Brent! It makes sense to go iron if that makes more HP, I wasn't aware that was the case.

That makes my future plans a bit less demanding. I can get significant lightening up front with alloy heads, water pump, etc. My car is not a racer at all, more accurately a daily driver. With the 1989 block in my replica being one of the more desirable of the 5.0s (roller lifters, hypereutectic pistons) I can see much more clearly the build parameters now.

Cheers!

Doug