Aluminum Flywheel

[Rick Parker]

When I attached the aluminum flywheel I did not want the heads of the bolts (ARP) baring down on the bare aluminum. I obtained the metal ring that is used with a flexplate in and Automatic trans application, it's a pretty common piece. It has the 6 holes in a ring the diameter of the crank flange, and distributes the clamping force a little more evenly IMO. It is made of a semi hardened material. Red Loctite all the way. No regrets.

Ronbo...The Green Loctite is for small diameter fasteners to be "Wicked" into the threads after assembly. It's not a high strength thread locker.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Rick Parker

Ronbo...The Green Loctite is for small diameter fasteners to be "Wicked" into the threads after assembly. It's not a high strength thread locker.

Huh, I didn't even know there was such a thing as "Green Loctite." This just might be the first post where I actually learned something from this forum.

[Ronbo]

Originally Posted by Rick Parker

When I attached the aluminum flywheel I did not want the heads of the bolts (ARP) baring down on the bare aluminum. I obtained the metal ring that is used with a flexplate in and Automatic trans application, it's a pretty common piece. It has the 6 holes in a ring the diameter of the crank flange, and distributes the clamping force a little more evenly IMO. It is made of a semi hardened material. Red Loctite all the way. No regrets.

Ronbo...The Green Loctite is for small diameter fasteners to be "Wicked" into the threads after assembly. It's not a high strength thread locker.

Yep, medium high. The green settels better in fine thread bolts than blue or red, there's also a loctite green bearing set. There's also a loctite yellow which you use if you never want to remove the bolt. Back in Cleveland a machinist friend of mine was also a rep for loctite he was the one who I found out about the yellow stuff from. I'm not sure where you'd get it as I've never seen anyone selling the yellow. (not that I'd ever use it)

Let's see if this works... http://www.henkelna.com/cps/rde/xchg...on%3Dsearch%7C

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Ronbo

...the yellow stuff from. I'm not sure where you'd get it as I've never seen anyone selling the yellow. (not that I'd ever use it)

Now I have heard of yellow Loctite. The auto threads on it all say it's a real bitc* to remove, but the literature says it's only medium strength. Speaking of literature, here is a list of most of the Loctite products, their color, and how to loosen them if you have to. Uhhh, for instance, say you got confused and put Loctite 262 on your spinners....
http://www.type2.com/library/chemicals/loctite.htm

[patrickt]

Here's a guy over on the pelicanparts forum fighting the yellow Loctite.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=406038

[Ronbo]

The stuff he had was more of an amber-ish color. Looked like honey.

The removal process was high heat and impact tools. (not or like red)

Probably some stuff NASA needed...

Lot of people think you need the high strength stuff, but lack of prep is the big problem with loctite not holding.

[elmariachi]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Uhhh, for instance, say you got confused and put Loctite 262 on your spinners....http://www.type2.com/library/chemicals/loctite.htm

But that would save on wire.

I have some of the yellow stuff, it was given to me by a NASA engineer here in Houston. It is waaaaaay beyond "medium." Let's just say we have bicycles and skateboards with bolts and nuts a mushroom cloud can't loosen. I would NOT put it on anything I ever wanted to get apart.

[Ronbo]

I also forgot to mention, if it's an coated bolt buff the threads with a wire wheel so the threads are bare metal. Loctite loses some bond strength against the usual bolt coatings like black oxide and zinc.

You know it's funny my experiance with the yellow stuff was almost 20 years ago. Strange how some things just stick with you.