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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2009, 04:47 PM
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Default exhaust leak between head and header

I have a very slight (annoying) leak between the head and header gasket. The engine head (exhaust side port) was plained but I should have plained the header before putting it on. Anyhow, now there is a slight leak. I've tried to re-tork the bolts. To pull the header requires raising the engine..dont feel like going there if I dont have to. Could I double up the gaskets to take out the slight imperfection or has anyone heard of remflex gaskets or any other suggestions would be appreciated.
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2009, 06:04 PM
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Try the Percy's carbon gaskets, Summit has 'em.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Red RTV is another option. (w/ copper gaskets)

Last edited by Ronbo; 06-03-2009 at 06:08 PM..
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Old 06-03-2009, 07:02 PM
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I use SCE's soft copper header gaskets with Stage 8 locking header bolts with zero leaks.
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Old 06-03-2009, 07:36 PM
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I used doubled HP Felpro gaskets with good results.
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Old 06-03-2009, 09:53 PM
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I finally solved my issues with Flatout Copper gaskets with NO EMBOSSMENT. They are one of the few who sell the copper for my engine without the embossment. RTV around the ports and torqued down with ARP 3/8" head bolts did the trick.
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Old 06-03-2009, 11:49 PM
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I too had a header leak on my 427 FE. Tried all the available options including the "soft Copper". Each time i would think I had problem solved but leak came back. Finally heard about Rimflex. Gave them a try and leak has never come back !!!!!
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Old 06-04-2009, 04:19 AM
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Default I use double glued exhaust gaskets

cobraman428 I use a double gasket of the cheap Felpros or Mr Gasket ones. Add a thin coat of Hi temp RTV from Permatex on both sides. Tight the bolts together starting at the ends. Do the final torque spec from the middle ones out both ways. I slot the 2 ends so the gasket drops in with the end bolts on. If you have a problem with this get longer bolts and work from the center out. When done, let the RTV setup for 12 hours, don't fire up the motor until this time. Also have car outside and not in garage, bad smell, and some smoke. Do a couple of 5-10 runs and let cool off, no full throttle runs. You you keep loosing gaskets, you could have one of 2 problems, either the surfaces are not flat on the header flanges or too much back pressure in the exhaust. Check the holes in the flange of the header to clearance of each bolt to the hole, there should be about 1/8 of front to back play. If not, this will bind and pinch the flange. This could cause it to warp enough to also cause gasket failures again. Try and check the flange with a straight edge piece of steel and see if everything is good. Rick L.
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Old 06-04-2009, 07:29 AM
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Remflex good......
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Old 06-04-2009, 08:43 AM
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At one time, I too was in your position with the header gaskets. I got a set of Remflex (cost a little more) and have never looked back. I forget what the crush factor was, but again they have worked great for me. I don't think I'll ever go any other way in the future.
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Old 06-05-2009, 04:05 PM
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Remflex really good.....
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Old 06-06-2009, 07:59 AM
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What up with the "Do not click this?"
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Old 06-07-2009, 11:29 AM
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I used the copper gaskets and the Stage8 bolts . As I remember (A) to the original part number made the bolts a
1/4" longer to take advantage more of the threads available in the alluminum heads and I have the CobraJet heads which have both bolt patterns full sized car and truck (over and under) and Mustang -Fairlaine (in front and back) of each port. With the ends of the header flanges bobed I have 14 bolts per side all tightened and locked. The center two bolts on each side had to be wired because the locks wouldn't fit against the header tubing.
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