Roller CAM -FE

[Jamo]

The hydraulic roller cams typically do NOT require a bronze gear since they have hardened steel cam gears...and can therefore take steel (or iron) distributor gears.

That is one of the benefits of going with hydraulic if one wants to go with a roller cam.

767...even when the distributor gears are perfectly mounted on the shaft (and drilled for the larger Chevy pin), the bronze gear is designed to be a disposable piece to protect the relatively soft steel found on solid roller cams made for FEs. Remember, distributor gears are doing double duty on wet sumps, and are even more strain given the HV pumps we tend to use on these beasts. When the gear goes...you cease from going, wherever the hell you are, and then you start fretting over the little bronze pieces in your oil until you get a chance to drop the pan (always fun in Cobras). The FE market is not as widespread as Chevy or various small blocks, and that is the reason given by the mfgs over the years for dragging their asses on the the solid roller sticks.

Again, there will always be a few folks who have had good luck on the street. I've heard of exactly five now, given the above post, and one of those had a dry sump, while two were talking about FEs in their drag racing sedans which occasionally found their way on the street. I'm sure there may be others...maybe dozens.

Here's my thinking...these damn little cars have enough stuff we need to watch, and the motors (at least mine) can cost what a nice little new Mustang GT with few options runs. Why in the hell would someone want to introduce a weak (or at least questionable) link to worry about. When a roller lifter lets go, it is nasty...the little arms (sans the needle bearings) just starts cutting into the cam, and the little needle bearing pieces just travel around the motor. Yes, all kinds of ideas of getting oil to the lifters (to keep the little bearings happy)...scribing, pin holes, etc.

Why not either stick with the technology of the day...flat tappet...or come all the way forward to a hydraulic stick? You haven't put anything together yet. Keith was one of the first proponets of the hydraulic stick, and how he could make the power and produce the revs approaching (in some cases surpassing) flat tappet sticks.

If I was building a brand new motor, I would go hydraulic roller. Thankfully, the tin lump Boghosian built me five years ago has survived my solid roller fixation and just pours out the power with the lovely ticking of the flat tappet. Having said that, it will commence to blow apart the next time I'm on a run...it's an FE kharma thing.

[Jamo]

767 Driver...the hydraulic rollers tend to have iron or hardened steel gears pressed on the cam, even for FE applications. The mfgs are less inclined to do this on solid roller FE cams...just a smaller market and because they tend to be utilized more in racing environments where regular engine teardowns minimize the need for anything more durable than a bronze gear.

That's all generally speaking, of course...and composite distributor gears which are more durable and yet won't eat the billet of a solid roller cam may be the ultimate answer, but five years later, the adjectives "new" and "experimental" always seem to be in play during discussions of them.

Remember...this thick-headed Armenian ignored three FE gurus and tried the solid roller anyway. Trial and error be an asspensive method of learning stuff.

[Jamo]

BTW, I'm mindful of the fact that you are intending to use an iron block, which is not going to be hydraulic ready. As others have noted, getting oil to the needle bearings on a roller rocker is a prime consideration in an FE block...so make sure all the tricks are utilized...a bit more oil pressure, etc., and remember to keep blipping the throttle to create splash.

This is why, IMO, solid rollers tend to have an easier time running down the quarter mile than in stop and go down a highway. It's the idling and slow speeds that kill them.

Are you stuck on an iron block? By the time you get one sleeved and cleaned up, the arruminum blocks end up costing about the same. Just something else to think about.

[767Jockey]

Originally Posted by Jamo

BTW, I'm mindful of the fact that you are intending to use an iron block, which is not going to be hydraulic ready. As others have noted, getting oil to the needle bearings on a roller rocker is a prime consideration in an FE block...so make sure all the tricks are utilized...a bit more oil pressure, etc., and remember to keep blipping the throttle to create splash.

This is why, IMO, solid rollers tend to have an easier time running down the quarter mile than in stop and go down a highway. It's the idling and slow speeds that kill them.

Are you stuck on an iron block? By the time you get one sleeved and cleaned up, the arruminum blocks end up costing about the same. Just something else to think about.

Is that question for me, Jamo? If so, my block problems are legion. I started with a factory iron sideoiler block. Long story, but that was ruined in the process. Then I went to an aftermarket iron block. That blosk is drilled for hydraulics, but the block arrived with heavy porosity problems. I'm trying to work a resolution to that now, and it'll be replaced with either another aftermarket iron block, or an aluminum block from the same manufacturer. It's in their court now......for the last three months.

[Jamo]

767...hmmmm, iron aftermarket block from an mfg that also makes arruminum...hmmmm, wonder who that could be.

So, either iron or arruminum from that mfg...the block could take a hydraulic roller. Talk to Keith some more.

Chappie...tell me about the gear on the cam itself...is it a pressed on iron or hardened steel?

[767Jockey]

Originally Posted by Jamo

767...hmmmm, iron aftermarket block from an mfg that also makes arruminum...hmmmm, wonder who that could be.

So, either iron or arruminum from that mfg...the block could take a hydraulic roller. Talk to Keith some more.

Don't get me wound up, Jamo!
PS - Know of a good lawyer?

[Jamo]

Originally Posted by 767Jockey

Don't get me wound up, Jamo!
PS - Know of a good lawyer?

You're surrounded by three of 'em in this thread...who else would belabor their points like this?

Chappie...and that's why you can use a steel gear (or an iron one if you want).

[Chaplin]

Yup, on both accounts.

[767Jockey]

Originally Posted by Jamo

You're surrounded by three of 'em in this thread...who else would belabor their points like this?

Yeah, but the pertinent question is are any of you licensed in Indiana????

[Jamo]

Lo siento, Senior...mi licenso de abogato es limito to Republico de Californio.

[767Jockey]

Originally Posted by Jamo

Lo siento, Senior...mi licenso de abogato es limito to Republico de Californio.

Entiendo, gracias por la exhaustiva respuesta, Señor!

[Jamo]

assolutely

[PANAVIA]

The trick to using a stock iron gear with a roller is having the gear Nitride or mellonized, this can only be done to a NEW gear. -- so sayith the sooth from COMP cams.

[767Jockey]

Originally Posted by PANAVIA

The trick to using a stock iron gear with a roller is having the gear Nitride or mellonized, this can only be done to a NEW gear. -- so sayith the sooth from COMP cams.

Hmmmmm......and where would one go to get this work done?

[4pipes]

Originally Posted by PANAVIA

The trick to using a stock iron gear with a roller is having the gear Nitride or mellonized, this can only be done to a NEW gear. -- so sayith the sooth from COMP cams.

You have to take it to a melon stand.

[Jamo]

Originally Posted by 4pipes

You have to take it to a melon stand.

Aw yes...he weighs in. 4pipes has the bestest setup for running a solid roller...a dry sump.

[4pipes]

Originally Posted by Jamo

Aw yes...he weighs in. 4pipes has the bestest setup for running a solid roller...a dry sump.

I couldn't hep myself.

BTW Jamo, I had the engine rebuilt 3 years ago and went with a flat tappet like yourself. Great performance and no worries since it was broken in on an engine dyno by the builder.

I developed a bad case of cold piston slap with the race pistons and we rebuilt it again with JE pistons and the builder decided it needed a little more umph, so he installed a Crower solid roller (mild lift for street) with the severe duty lifters. Well, I love the engine now, but I am a little concerned about reliability.

Time will tell.

[Jamo]

Well, at least the distributor gear isn't having to multi-task!

[tmareina]

I've got a solid roller cam and lifters in a motor built by Tom Lucas at FE Specialties in 2007. It has 614 HP and about 5,000 + miles on the motor with no problems...I haven't even had to adjust the lifters yet as all settings have stayed in good adjustment. I'd say Tom knows his stuff.

Tom

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by tmareina

... about 5,000 + miles on the motor with no problems...I haven't even had to adjust the lifters yet as all settings have stayed in good adjustment.

Ahh, the kiss of death. I can hear those needle bearings seizing as I type this....