Since Undy has the "deep pockets" expense is no object for him.
I 100% stand by my conclusion that you can do a flat tappet cam setup for a FRACTION of the cost of a roller set up. Bogus argument? No way!
Let's look at some basic numbers for BASIC hardware, nothing exotic that may well be RECOMMENDED by many of todays engine builders and cost CONSIDERABLY more than the prices I've listed here.
Approximate cost comparisons:
Flat tappet cam: $150
Roller cam: $250
Flat tappet lifters: $80-$90
Rollers: $250 to $450 (retro fit to a 427 big block in the later case).
You'll need $200-$300 more for push rods, valve springs and misc IF you do your own work. Add considerably more if your paying an engine builder to do the job. Maybe you could sell your old flat tappet parts on e-bay? Don't hold your breath...
The "soft cam material" argument doesn't hold water. The Chinese steel argument doesn't cut it. And I DO acknowledge some Chinese stuff was pretty poor quality, still is, ya get what you pay for. The research is pretty clear on flat tappet cam failures which caught the ENTIRE industry by surprise across the board. Two things: Modern oil, which is easily rectified with additives readily available. Break in procedures, THAT is the primary cause. Within 20 minutes of FIRST STARTING a new engine you have already established the "break in". That cam is going to live or die based on that first 20 minutes.
Don't think you can't wipe out a hydraulic roller cam either!!! Run 'em hard and push their rpm limit and the lifters begin to fail, that leaves clearance problems, that leads to cam/lifter failure. Just as ugly as any other cam/lifter failure. THAT is why many of todays engine builders will recommend the latest, greatest and best roller lifter technology available. And it's going to cost you a LOT more than a set of flat tappet lifters and well above the prices I've listed here!
Personally I would NOT run a "basic" low cost hydraulic roller cam on the track and be pushing my rpm limits with it. While you may "float the valves" with a flat tappet, they aren't anywhere near the danger of "floating the valves" on a hydraulic roller.
If the issue is simply one of "max power" a solid roller of any kind will ALWAYS outperform a hydraulic roller, period!
If the issue is "money", the flat tappet win's hands down, no contest.
If the issue is good street manners, good power over a broad range of rpm and limiting max rpm for long life, hydraulic roller is a good choice. Assuming race and money are not primary issues of course.
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