Canton oil pan gasket

[ERA Chas]

Doug,
You'll get the 'Iron Man Award' after this one.

A. There's a 50-50 chance.
B. There's a 50-50 chance.
C. Not terrible. Use the recommended drill size for the coil body in the instructions and it's like installing a normal fastener.
D. Yes pulling the engine is the last option. But I have another thought:

If it were me- assuming the boss inside the pan rail has enough 'meat', I would drill the complete hole to the next size and Loctite in the size- larger STUD. Don't go too deep and stay square as you can. Then slightly enlarge the pan's hole for the stud size and location. Use it as one of your two 'guide' studs to get the pan up.
Doing this means the bad hole does not need a fastener screwed and unscrewed over time. It stays in place and the 'weak' hole isn't worsened.

I hate doing this to a NOS block too but it'll be our little secret. It WILL solve the problem more easily than the other ideas.

[patrickt]

... and if you don't want to go the larger stud route, a TimeSert would be the option I would go with. The kits cost a bit more, but they're almost fool-proof if you have the room to work.

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

If it were me- assuming the boss inside the pan rail has enough 'meat', I would drill the complete hole to the next size and Loctite in the size- larger STUD. Don't go too deep and stay square as you can. Then slightly enlarge the pan's hole for the stud size and location. Use it as one of your two 'guide' studs to get the pan up.
Doing this means the bad hole does not need
a fastener screwed and unscrewed over time. It stays in place and the 'weak' hole isn't worsened.

I hate doing this to a NOS block too but it'll be our little secret. It WILL solve the problem more easily than the other ideas.

How is this any different from the helicoil solution? All the same issues with plumb seem to still exist don't they?