Canton oil pan gasket

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by RedBarchetta

Sorry to correct you guys so late here, but you're both wrong. The SPF frame allows you to drop the pan straight down (at least with a SB). I"m pretty sure the same is true with the BB.

-Dean

Ehhhrrggg, small blocks don't count. I'll await confirmation on the big block, though....

[dcdoug]

OK, here are some pics of the hole and it's location. Corner bolt, rear of the pan. I checked the hole again tonight and while the sides look pretty bad (from removing the broken extractor which I couldn't drill completely straight on), the "top" and "bottom" at least in this perspective should still have good thread as there is still a thin layer of the broken bolt against those threads.

My plan is to drill out this hole with a 1/4" bit which fits perfectly into the other pan bolt holes and then see what I have to work with. I still think there is an outside chance I can clean the threads up with a tap and use the Permatex solution to rebuild the damaged/missing threads. If not, then I already have a great pilot hole for the TimeSert.

I did order today a set of tap sockets (wish I knew these existed a week ago - TimeSert site suggested them) and a tap guide which should help a lot with keeping the tap plumb.

I will ultimately have to use a bit of extra silicon around this bolt hole to fill the small gaps that remain on the side of the bolt hole.

[CCX 33239]

Happily, the Contemporary has a clean shot at the pan also. It really reduces the PITA factor.

[patrickt]

OK, I must be really dumb this morning, but in the picture below, what is the hex nut looking thing and what is the big crater just above and to the right of it?

[elmariachi]

Doug it looks like you are making progress, though it couldn't have happened in a worse hole.

The Hurricane is free of any obstructions well, the pan can drop straight down.

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by elmariachi

Doug it looks like you are making progress, though it couldn't have happened in a worse hole.

X 2.

I feel more strongly after seeing it-either TimeSert it or oversize it and stud it as I said before. Either way, I'd rather not remove/install that fastener more than once.

Me-I'd stud it oversize.

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

X 2.

I feel more strongly after seeing it-either TimeSert it or oversize it and stud it as I said before. Either way, I'd rather not remove/install that fastener more than once.

Me-I'd stud it oversize.

I ordered a timesert kit and will likely end up that route unless the hole looks pretty good when I drill it out. I also ordered a tap guide and tap sockets which should allow me to get it plumb. Will be a fun weekend......but at least I should make some progress.

[dcdoug]

Not sure about the hex nut. Some sort of plug? It is outside the pan rail. The "crater" is the bolt hole. The "cratered" piece of it is mostly near the surface and the hole is normal further down. It looks like it is really large and blown out in this photo, but you still can't stick a 1/4 bit down the center of it, so there is still some bolt left along the sides. So when drilled out, it should clean up reasonably well. As mentioned before, the damage on the sides came from getting the extractor out, but isn't that deep. The out-of-round pieces along the sides should fill reasonable well with either epoxy if I can do the Permatex solution or silicone if I end up with the TermSert.

[patrickt]

That makes sense now. I was looking at that hex plug thinking that was the end of the bolt that had broken off and now you had magically partially drilled it out a bit in the shape of a hex pattern.

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by patrickt

That makes sense now. I was looking at that hex plug thinking that was the end of the bolt that had broken off and now you had magically partially drilled it out a bit in the shape of a hex pattern.

More coffee before Club Cobra.....

[ERA Chas]

Good Doug.

Just be careful to not break through the boss on the inside of the block. They aren't really generous.

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

Good Doug.

Just be careful to not break through the boss on the inside of the block. They aren't really generous.

Good to know. I will wrap electrical tape around the bit so I know that I haven't gone too far.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

Good Doug.

Just be careful to not break through the boss on the inside of the block. They aren't really generous.

Uhh, you know that if you do break the boss, it's a pretty big deal. Not like "windowing the block" or anything, but still a pretty big deal.

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Uhh, you know that if you do break the boss, it's a pretty big deal. Not like "windowing the block" or anything, but still a pretty big deal.

That's what makes me a little nervous about the Timesert since it's a slightly oversize hole. On the drilling, I will be checking the depth measurements repeatedly plus taping off the bit at the right depth. Other suggestions?

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by dcdoug

That's what makes me a little nervous about the Timesert since it's a slightly oversize hole. On the drilling, I will be checking the depth measurements repeatedly plus taping off the bit at the right depth. Other suggestions?

The only other thing I could think of would be a portable drill guide. That would help you have a nice straight hole but I just don't know if you could use one of them down under there. This is what they look like, but I just don't think you could use it:

[dcdoug]

I don't think i have room for that. I did get a hand guide for the tap and I was planning to use for the drill too. Not as good as above, but will fit in the space I have.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by dcdoug

I don't think i have room for that. I did get a hand guide for the tap and I was planning to use for the drill too. Not as good as above, but will fit in the space I have.

Then go for it. If you screw something up, we'll just use JB Weld on it and it'll be good as new.

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Then go for it. If you screw something up, we'll just use JB Weld on it and it'll be good as new.

Let's hope we don't have that conversation.

[dcdoug]

OK, here's the update on the pan-from-he!! project. Got the rest of the bolt out on Sat. Hole was pretty banged up, but cleaned up better than I thought when I ran a tap into to it. I used a tap guide, so I know it went in straight. Oh and tap sockets are a godsend in that tight space.

I decided to give the Permatex epoxy solution a shot first. It will fill any gaps on the sidewalls of the bolt hole and I still can go with the TimeSert if it doesn't work. I am a little nervous about the need to drill out a bigger hole for the TimeSert as I think Chas is right that the boss for this hole doesn't leave much margin for error.

So current status: Pan is back on the car, all of the bolts are in, but just snugged gently. My torque wrench seems to be acting up. It's one of the cheap "click" types and didn't seem to be functioning properly, so I ordered another one and will wait to torque the bolts until I get it mid-week. I don't want to over-torque anything. There is still a question as to whether that Permatex hole will hold the torque, but i will find out and can always do the TimeSert if I need to. I know my father has had good luck with that solution on manifold bolts.

Oh, I couldn't get the windage try to fit over the cross rail, under the rotating assembly and over the oil pick-up, so I am going to pass on it this time. I cut the serrated-head bolts from 3/4" down to 5/8" instead. I will admit to having limited patience with messing with the windage tray at this point - especially on such a beautiful day when I was under my car rather than driving it.

Anyway, hopefully I will be good to go for the Middleburg cruise this weekend. And hopefully leak free....

[patrickt]

But I thought some of the bolts were "too long" without cutting them off or using the windage tray?