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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #961 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2014, 01:56 PM
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Jeff
you sure stator and field hooked up correctly? I struggled to determine which is which on the back of my Alternator.
Looking from behind the top spade is field. Also to find my upgraded reconditioned Alternator had a slight short which prevented a full charge whilst running with lights and fan on and drained the battery over 2 days.
Looking good and hope you get sorted in time for a few runs to enjoy.
Like the T10?
Ross
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  #962 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2014, 04:20 PM
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CSX2375R Comp289
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Ok,

Light on dash works. Yeah..............

Does not go off.....

Checked all wires again and all seems to be good...

Planning to check alternator as it may be an issue?

Thanks to all for the help both MikePack and John B helped alot.............

Ross love the T10, different than the toploader I had in the CCX. Shorter throw and smoother.
Goes down the highway great, 3:31 gearing is nice.
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Last edited by 1985 CCX; 11-04-2014 at 04:22 PM..
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  #963 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2014, 07:02 PM
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So a modern internally regulated alternator is looking better all the time?
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  #964 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2014, 01:17 AM
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Jeff, as you may have seen on another thread I'm having the same issues (or at least I think I am). I have everything connected for my preliminary wiring check, but the motor is not running as haven't sorted exhaust or cooling yet.
I started out with the 'Lucas SF4' diagram, as published in period for MkIII/427. This shows the warning light connected to the stator connection on the VR. With this exact wiring setup and all good grounds, the red light never came on. By using first principles and Mustang diagrams, I have now done the following:
Batt positive connected to A (output) on alternator, with ammeter in series
Stator on alt connected to stator on VR
Field on alt connected to field on VR
I on VR connected to warning light, on to ignition-fed live

My red light now comes on, but I don't know if it's going to go off again when the motor runs. I am using a rebuilt '65 alternator (42A) and an electronic VR hidden under a black case.
Please let me know how you get on!
Roger
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  #965 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2014, 09:40 AM
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The lead for the red light goes to the Voltage regulator. With key on (not running) or at low RPM the light will stay red, once enough voltage is being produced the normally closed relay opens and the light goes out, indicating a charging situation.
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Last edited by Rick Parker; 11-05-2014 at 09:44 AM..
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  #966 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2014, 02:16 PM
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Ok,

Solved my charging issue. Well it was simple but not anything I ever expected.
The ignition wire goes through the dash light then the other end of the light to the ignition switch. Turns out, John's diagram, shows a 15 ohm resistor between the two wires. Adding this allows circuit to work. So indicator turns off when car is running and remains on before the start.
On to other items.

Connected high beam indicator and it works.

Both oil and water temp work too.

Adding a vintage windshield washer motor.

Thanks to David Wathen for sending me a working L542

Shaping up to be a great Spring 2015.
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Last edited by 1985 CCX; 11-16-2014 at 02:21 PM..
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  #967 (permalink)  
Old 11-17-2014, 04:40 PM
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Washer motor installed and working...........
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Last edited by 1985 CCX; 11-17-2014 at 04:43 PM..
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  #968 (permalink)  
Old 11-22-2014, 07:49 AM
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Winter fun run!
Kevin came over to brave a drive to breakfast. It was 20F, light wind and overcast.
Let me tell you, comp screen is different in the cold.......

Leaving the diner we did cook a small ground wire, must have been incorrect as we ran fine on the route home. Only issue is a few pauses on the ride, that may have been temp and Weber combo?

Still great short ride and thanks to Kevin for the crimp tools to help me complete the process....

Brrrrrrrrrrrrrr
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  #969 (permalink)  
Old 11-22-2014, 07:53 AM
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You might be a little low on sensibility. 20f!!!?
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  #970 (permalink)  
Old 11-22-2014, 08:27 AM
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I tried to keep a brave face but it may have been the coldest I have ever been 20F is one thing, 20F without a windshield is quite another...

Thanks again for a fun ride and a great breakfast. Your car is awesome.
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  #971 (permalink)  
Old 11-23-2014, 01:21 PM
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For those with Webers
Tried running with the nylon socks to keep recent road stuff in NE out of the carbs.

Under light acceleration and normal driving they do seem to work well however under heavy acceleration the car floods. The screens chokes off the air.

Whatta day 60 here today.

So if you are going to hammer it leave the Webers open.
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  #972 (permalink)  
Old 11-23-2014, 01:29 PM
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Ha! Probably not going to work out, then.
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  #973 (permalink)  
Old 11-23-2014, 03:07 PM
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Blimey Jeff, how much did you spend on your motor?
I'd never run without some kind of filter. I used ITG 'socks' on my race Healey's triple 45s. And that's in England, where the rain keeps the dust down.

Roger
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  #974 (permalink)  
Old 11-23-2014, 04:18 PM
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Everyone I know drives without filters here.
What are others doing besides screens?
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  #975 (permalink)  
Old 11-24-2014, 12:50 AM
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My conditions are likely much more harsh than yours(why I run screens). That said, I do find pebbles up on the intake. They can get up In there. Im all for open stacks but, I'd surely consider my environment, first.
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  #976 (permalink)  
Old 11-24-2014, 10:57 AM
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Hyde

I am considering screens for normal daily driving as I am not aggressive on the street.

On days I feel frisky maybe pop them off and let it rip.....
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  #977 (permalink)  
Old 11-24-2014, 01:39 PM
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Sounds like a wise plan
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  #978 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2014, 05:01 PM
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Planning the last ride of the year tomorrow. Should be a balmy 30F.....

Working on radiator fill piece after....
Here is the start.............
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  #979 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2014, 05:30 PM
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Your car is an inspiration!
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Old 12-12-2014, 06:25 PM
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Jeff,
I have been watching your build since the beginning and the only thing I can say is... Wow!
Amazing work and an amazing car... you my friend, are an incredible craftsman.
Bob
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