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05-02-2010, 06:57 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Virginia Beach, Va & Port Charlotte, Fl.,
Posts: 2,280
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Not Ranked
I need a better mouse trap (gas pedal)
Below is the current Lokar pedal assembly I'm running. It's really very flimsey. With the throttle cable system and the dual carbs I'm running it tends to bend and distort with agressive foot action. It's beginning to become a real PITA as every once in a while I need to lean over and re-bend it back into shape. Unfortunately, I'm doomed to keep the cable setup so I need a stronger pedal assembly that operates in a similar fashion.
I can "modify" the pedal mount to retrofit to a different MFR's pedal assembly, need be. Any recommendations???
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Too many toys?? never!
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05-02-2010, 07:54 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 327
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I fabricated mine as well
Quote:
Originally Posted by undy
Below is the current Lokar pedal assembly I'm running. It's really very flimsey. With the throttle cable system and the dual carbs I'm running it tends to bend and distort with agressive foot action. It's beginning to become a real PITA as every once in a while I need to lean over and re-bend it back into shape. Unfortunately, I'm doomed to keep the cable setup so I need a stronger pedal assembly that operates in a similar fashion.
I can "modify" the pedal mount to retrofit to a different MFR's pedal assembly, need be. Any recommendations???
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I used the lokar billet pedal set up, where the 2 holes that hold it in place I welded a bracket or a arm that leans out to the left side of the pedal about 2 inches with a hole at the end, so now you have it mounted with 3 bolts insread of the 2, and then it wont twist or bend on you, its very easy to do.
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05-02-2010, 04:37 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Virginia Beach, Va & Port Charlotte, Fl.,
Posts: 2,280
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Not Ranked
Sorta fixed the problem with materials on hand...
1. Fired up the mig welder and the porta-bandsaw then reinforced the pedal mounting bracket at the firewall.
2. Using the mig, I welded in some fabricated gussets and reinforcements for my current Lokar pedal assembly.
3. The biggest improvement was when I changed my throttle cable from a rear pull to a front pull system. Using some 0.0625" aluminum flat metal I had I fabricated a base plate for the throttle cable to bolt to. Now instead of two hard turns (S) in the cable there's just one large radius bend. (U)
The throttle is much easier to depress now. It's much more linear in the transition from the front carb to the rear now. Overall, I'm very pleased with the results.
Here's a pic of the carb end of the mod.
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Too many toys?? never!
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05-02-2010, 08:52 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Sacramento,Ca.,
Ca.
Cobra Make, Engine: Midstates (2001)
Posts: 1,724
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Not Ranked
Speedway sells what they call a "problem solver"gas pedal assy. that comes with a cable and it bolts to the side of the foot box and is very sturdy i used it on my car and am very happy with it.....part # is 913-55005 $39.99 sorry i dont have a picture of it.
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05-03-2010, 01:52 PM
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Seasoned Member
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Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Portsmouth,
VA
Cobra Make, Engine: Unique 427 S/C, Dart 427W "Replica" Ford engine
Posts: 584
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Not Ranked
The neatest gas pedal I ever saw was a Ludwig bass drum pedal that the guy had welded up; probably too big for us.
Bill Stradtner
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05-03-2010, 03:29 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,078
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Dave,
You have welding skills and did a nice repair to your problem.
There's another solution since you can weld-if you want a little project.
ERA's pedal has an arm at the top and their linkage is a bell crank which runs from the foot box to a bracket bolted to the intake. I have always been a fan of heim joints and solid rod linkage. Very easy to do so after you fab the bell crank. I don't think Bob could sell you the parts but you surely can make them.
Heims really give you a solid, no play pedal with complete no-bind smoothness. And no curved cable going over the headers.
If you're interested, I can snap some better shots for you or maybe Patrick has some-he took shots of every molecule in the car...
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Chas.
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05-04-2010, 03:13 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Virginia Beach, Va & Port Charlotte, Fl.,
Posts: 2,280
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Rusty, now that I've reinforced the pedals mount pad there's no reason to reinvent the wheel. The Speedway setup wouldn't work well with my tunnel configuration.
Chas, the Lonestar has a fiberglass tunnel and firewall so modifications like that are very problematic. I've looked at every way possible to put a bell crank system in replacing the cable system. Without MAJOR work and the possibility of it looking cobbled up it's just not readily do-able.
I've ordered a longer cable so I don't have to go up and over the valve cover. The radius a bit gentler too. I also went with a woven stainless exterior on the cable for heat resistance and esthetics. I talked with Lokar tech and came up with this pedal. it's much stiffer and has a stronger base over the current pedal.
It's all due here tomorrow from Mr. Jegs.
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Too many toys?? never!
Last edited by undy; 05-04-2010 at 03:18 AM..
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05-04-2010, 07:20 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Broken Arrow. OK ( South Tulsa), USA,
OK
Cobra Make, Engine: 66 COBRA FE 427 /4SP. (HCS Coupe w/ 408 Stroker and TKO 600 -sold)
Posts: 5,595
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Not Ranked
Chas,
That is one of the best looking 2 x 4 setups I have ever seen. I built something like yours but it was not nearly as well thought out. Great looking engine.
By the way I made my own pedal assembly and throtle linkage. 3/4" square tubing and 10/32 all thread rods, aluminium hollow sleeve from the craft store, and heim joints. looks great and works well too.
Clois
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Last edited by Clois Harlan; 05-04-2010 at 07:23 AM..
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05-04-2010, 08:09 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,078
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Thanks for the kind words Clois. Just an amateur hacker getting lucky once in a while...
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Chas.
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