05-21-2004, 12:32 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Surprise,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: 2004 Kirkham 427 Roadster. New BBM Sideoiler Block, 484 cu. in. built by Valley Head & Racing Engines, Northridge CA. installed 3/20/2016
Posts: 63
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Not Ranked
Johan has got it right. Also, just as in setting up a ring and pinion, check to make sure your mating surfaces on the wheel and knock off match. If you find that the nut or knock off surface is narrow compared to the seat on the wheel, even when tightend, your wheel may very well come loose. With all Racing cars it is common parctice to check the seating of the center nut or knock off's on new wheels prior to use. In many cases it is necessary to machine the nuts or knock off's and or the wheels to insure proper seating. Even on the most expensive wheels.
The gualling many of you may be experiencing could be caused because only a small amout of the mating surface's are doing the work!
Don't take for granted that just because it's new and is supposed to be right, that it is. Manufactures use CNC and very rarely do much quality control anymore. They assume that since it's CNC everything will come out as planned, even aluminum parts after a run of a hundred or so. They are very much mistaken.
Safety wire will never keep a wheel from loosening or coming off. Nor will safety pins or the like. The only way is if the wheel and spinner are properly seated.
The tightening device one off you made is simuliar to what we used back 70's, in the CAN-AM day's. The wheels were so deep (22in. wide) that you couldn't get a hammer inside to tighten them. So we made our own tools that would reach inside the wheels to the center nuts, and smack the ears on the tool with a hammer.
Good Job, you could make some money selling those I bet.
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Bruce
Last edited by Bruce Robles; 05-21-2004 at 12:43 AM..
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