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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2003, 05:58 AM
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Post Knock off wheel torque

Does any one know what the torque spec is for knock-off wheels?? I have Haibrand knock offs and used a bronze head hammer to loosed and tighten the spinners. I wrapped a soft cloth on the spinner first. I went to have tires installed and they wouldn't put them on because they didn't hace the right tool and they didn't know how to torque them or what the torque is supposed to be. I snugged them up pretty good and then wired the spinners to an opening in the wheel.

thanks,

Greg
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Old 11-16-2003, 09:45 AM
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Greg:
The spinners do not have to be super duper tight. Remember, the pins handle the torque of accelerating and braking. Just snug them on and give them another couple of moderate hits. Don'[t over tighten them. Use heavy safety wire. Check the wire before and after every drive. If it is getting tighter, the spinners is trying to come off.

Bob
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Old 11-16-2003, 09:50 AM
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Thanks for the info Bob. I saw a weird pronged socket type tool for removing/installing knock-off spinners but it was $85.00!! I figured a hammer and soft clth would accomplish the same thing and save me the $85.00 to spend on something else.
Thanks again
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Old 11-16-2003, 10:13 AM
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Thumbs up No expert here but...

This is what I have always been told. The spinner tools are not necessary but if you have one it should not be used for puting the spinner on. If you decide to not use the tool for removal make sure when you are hitting the ears that you keep rotating the ear you are hitting. Do not keep hitting the same ear. When removing the spinners use a lead or dead blow hammer. When installing the spinner snug it up by hand then start tapping the ears with a dead blow hammer, stop when the spinner stops moving. As stated before it does not take a ton of torque. Leave a little slack in the safety wire so you can easily see if the spinner has moved.
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Old 11-16-2003, 11:12 AM
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One trick that I was shown, is to get a nice 2" inside diameter rubber hose, about 14 inches in length. You slide this over the spinner prong you are about to hit with the lead hammer. This rubber hose protects the spinner from deformation.

Bob in CT is quite correct about the safety wire. Some folks suggest that you attach the safety wire in the direction of the tightness, that way, if the spinner begins to loosen up, the wire will show that. Example. On the Drivers' side on my car, Right is Tight (Righty-Tighty). So the saftey wire is anchored on a left spoke and goes Right to a Spinner Ear. So, if I see a Driver Side safety wire going Left (Loosey) then I know to inspect the spinner. I do belive Bob in CT showed me this trick up at Lyme Rock.

I have one of those big turned spinner hub sockets. It came with my ERA from the previous owner. I have not used it yet. He did warn me about its use. He suggested to put a thin damp cloth over the spinner before using the tool so as to protect the spinner from marring from the edges of the tool. Since I have not used it yet, I do not have experience with it. It is a work of art however, Nice conversation piece on your desk?

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Old 11-16-2003, 11:16 AM
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Thanks for all the suggestions. The rubber hose idea is excellent!! This cobra forum is by far the best thing I have found on the internet. Great bunch of guys (and girls too I am sure) using this site!

Greg
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Old 11-16-2003, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by REDSC400
Right click....save as..... GREAT TIP!!!
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  #8 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2003, 07:17 PM
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I have tried both the lead hammer and the "special wrench". Lead hammer wins hands down. The lead hammer will deform long before the spinner will, provided the spinner is of good strong material.

I actually use both sight and sound, mostly sound to tighten mine. When you use the hammer to tighten, you will hear a metallic ringing when to hit the spinner. Eventually it becomes a thud around the time it stops wanted to move in any significant fashion. I used to run around without safety wire--but at the time ignorance was bliss. Check the wire every now and again. I actually check my friend's wires when I see them as a favor and remember to do it.
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Old 11-16-2003, 08:09 PM
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Art,

Can you post a picture of that tool? Anyone know where to get one? Should work great with an impact wrench, no?

Thanks,

Lowell
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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2003, 08:40 PM
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If I remember correctly you can find the tool through Finish Line who advertise on the CC Forum.
DonC
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Old 11-16-2003, 10:43 PM
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I have had pretty good luck using a 12" long piece of 2" square oak wood and hit it with a 3lb hand sledge, (which I already had)but didn't over do it. I like the idea that the hammer is not too close to the body or the actual wheel, and the wood doesn't damage the metal knock off.

Rick
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Old 11-17-2003, 04:35 AM
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From the finishLine Website


I've heard to NOT use it to put the spinner on, FWIW..
Very slick looking IMHO.

Shaps
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Old 11-17-2003, 04:41 AM
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Elegant! Looks more like an "instrument" than a "tool"...

Thanks
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Old 11-17-2003, 05:10 PM
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If I may, I would refer you to this previous thread:

ttp://www.clubcobra.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=45239&highlight=spinner

I, and several others on the forum, have had problems with removal of the aluminum spinners after a number of on/off cycles. From what I've been able to learn from some metallurgist friends, aluminum spinners will eventually weld themselves to the aluminum wheels under the normal pressure of repetitive tightening. How long before it happens seems to be a function of how often you remove/retighten the spinners. I used anti-seize compound on the face between the spinner and wheel until it ran out the threads and still welded all four of the spinners to the wheels, as shown by some rather large pitted areas on the face of the spinners. Without the Finishline tool, I don't think I would have gotten the spinners off, short of using a cutting torch. There have been other threads on this forum in which folks described completely demolishing lead hammers (with accompanying photos) in unsuccessful attempts to remove the things. Others swear by the lead hammers, but I will attest that no lead hammer would have removed these things the last time I had to take them off. IMHO, you would do well to get one of the tools because you will likely need it sooner or later. I figure I applied well over 600 ft-lbs of torque to the tool to break these things loose; the torque was enough to bend a 1" diameter mild steel bar far enough that it had to be cut off the tool. I seriously doubt that any hammer would have been able to provide that much torque without breaking the tangs off the spinner. I also agree with Tinker51 in that you shouldn't use the tool to install the spinners; you will overtighten them and have a difficult time getting them off next time. I don't intend to start a urinary confrontation here, and I fully understand that many folks have had satisfactory service from the hammers; however, this is my personal experience on the subject and I would like to help others avoid the problem. Be sure to safety wire them after installation, in case they do loosen up (as others on this forum have experienced). It seems odd to me that some people have the wheels fall off in normal driving and others need to hire King Kong to remove them, but I guess the differences are part of the sport.
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Old 11-18-2003, 09:26 AM
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Http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/show...hlight=spinner
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Old 11-18-2003, 09:44 AM
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Greg:
I plan on going with the stainless steel knockoffs on my ERA when it's built to alleviate both the galling problem (although I'll still be using anti-sieze) and reduce the possibility of breaking the wings. It will add a couple of pounds to the car but I can live with that.
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Old 11-18-2003, 10:26 AM
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Chopper:
Yes, I remember your post about the hubs being stuck. Sheesh that must have been really fustrating! Not fun at all. BTW, since you have loosenend them up, what has your experience been with them? Did they over-tighten again? It is because of your post that I have kept the hub tool around.

DonC:
The stainless spinners are the way to go. Even with their use, you will need to "annoint" the threads with some never-seize.
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Old 11-18-2003, 10:44 AM
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If you safety wire the knock-offs (highly recommended), I would recommend running the safety wire from the spinner ear to the wheel spoke in the direction that tightens the knock-off...clockwise on the left side, counterclockwise on the right side, with a little slack in the wire. If the knock-off loosens, the wire will tighten up which is more noticeable than if it loosens up...and, it may actually prevent it from coming off...
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Old 11-18-2003, 11:06 AM
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After getting them tight by hand then 2 wacks with a 15 lb lead hammer then apply the safety wire. When the the wire gets tight they are trying to come loose. Most wheel problems are caused by a wheel that does not fit correctly against the front or rear hub. If you can get .002 feeler guage between the wheel and the hub (check different locations) then it will come loose no matter how tight the spinner is torqued. If they fit right then they don't need a massive amount of torque to stay tight.
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Old 11-18-2003, 12:10 PM
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RedSC400:

I purchased a set of stainless spinners from Enzo, and was in the process of drilling the holes for the safety wire when I got sent out of town for a month. I'll get them installed soon, of course using liberal quantities of anti-seize, and I hope that resolves the problem.

Not to beat a dead horse (so to speak) but there was an old thread in the earlier days of this site in which a member recanted his tales of woe about trying to beat his spinners off with a lead hammer. He included pics of the hammer in its terminal state and it wasn't recognizable as a tool. Of course, with a big enough heater you can always melt and recast the hammer (as some people do) but several folks have ended up cutting these spinners off with a torch, which of course plays havoc with the spindles and wheels. Again, not to be combative with other members who have had satisfactory luck with the hammers, but I really don't think any hammer would have budged these things without breaking off the tangs. I went down to the local steel outlet yesterday and purchased a 5-ft length of 1-inch diameter, cold rolled steel bar for use during the next episode.
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