Quote:
Originally posted by cobrashoch
Interesting thread you guys got here. I've switched over to a automatic (old age I guess) but I used a Tilton with no problems what so ever before the switch. I did use a pedal stop and had a couple of custom hoses made instead of using the cheap "fittings and hose kit" that came with the bearing. My pedal stop was just a block of wood that would stop the arm. (old Sox and Martin trick)
A word to the wise; all hydro. throw out bearings have a rating that will limit the pressure plate weight rating you can use. If your clutch pressure plate is too heavy it will cause premature o-ring failure/leakage. The Tilton I used would be maxed out at about 3000 lbs I was told by Tilton. Matter of fact they also told me that their bearing was really designed to be use with a duel friction Centerforce clutch. Most of them are rated at about 2500 static they said.
I can't help but think some of you guys that have had o-ring failures and leaks also have heavy clutches I'd bet. Understand, hyd. T.O. bearings will work with a heavy clutch, for a while,,,,,,,,,, A alternitive to a heavy clutch is to use a so called "Pro" clutch pressure plate, but that is a subject for another thread.
Cul8er - Your pressure plate was too heavy. That's the reason the buttons wore on the fingers. The throwout bearing was operating past its pressure hold limit, causing the T.O. bearing itself to flutter. Your really lucky you know, you found a problem before all of that stuff came unglued in a power shift. Food for thought.
cobrashock
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cobrashoch,
no power shifts here (yet) I've only got around 600 miles on her as we speak! As I mentioned earlier, I'm thinking that my problem(s) are a culmination (sp) oversites and parts that weren't meant to work together.
The most important thing I have learned is to ASK QUESTIONS!!!!!
So, I'm doing that via this thread . . . and again I am very greatful for all of your wisdom, replies and suggestions, which prompts me to ask these questions, but first let describe the scenario:
Had a Hays High Performance Clutch (Lever/Long type). I have no idea the pressure rating for this clutch. Had a Wilwood 3/4 slave cylinder and a McLeod T/O bearing.
Assembled driveline myself. Measured Installed Height of T/O bearing and Bellhousing to levers to establish .125 to .150 clearance. Car drove fine (I babied the hell out of this set up, never lit 'em up, or power shifted as I didn't want to break anything). Forgot to install pedal stop and now I'm suffering the consequences.
Now come the question(s):
1. Ring gear all chewed up. Occasionally upon trying to start car, I heard grinding. . . maybe 1 in ten times . . . What caused this?
2. In the market for a clutch disc and pressure plate . . . is a "diaphram" type easier on the left leg? What are the benefits of one style over the other . . . (Diaphram vs Lever?)
3. What are the benefits (if any) of a Kevlar clutch disc over Organic?
I realize that I can get all these questions answered by making a call to say David Kee or McLeod, but I would like to get first hand "customer" experience and then perhaps call the suppliers.
FYI: my driving habits are somewhat "tame" to say the least. For fear of breaking stuff, I take it easy. I've never had a car with this sort of power and need more "seat time" before I attempt to hammer on it a little.
That being said, your experiences/suggestions/recommendations gladly accepted.
Thanks,
Kim
p.s.: car is up on jack stands, driveline disassembled, waiting for "correct" parts selection.
Hybrid Mode
