Shell Valley Body Install Problems - Page 2

Campy · #21 (**permalink**) 07-07-2001, 08:57 PM

ACC427US,

Man you've got some interesting problems

I'm not quite sure what you mean when you say the "tail section rests on the trunk piece". My body was mounted on the frame when I received the kit. It only required some minor tweaking.

No spacers of any type were required between the body and the frame. What size engine are you using?
I ran into an interesting problem when I noticed my engine was way too high. I called SVM and they advised me of the correct engine mounts to use. The mounts I had originally purchased were almost 2" too high

I have found that many times the position of one assembly dictates the proper placement of the next assembly. If I had to do it all over again, I would position the body so the front wheels are centered in the wheel wells. I noticed that if you don't get them centered correctly, they will rub the wheel well when the steering is at either extremes. (believe me I know, it happened to me). Once that is correct then what dictates the proper fore-aft position of the engine is how close you can get the side pipes centered in the body cut-out. You don't have much room to play here. Keep in mind that the motor mount brackets that SVM supplies can be flip-flopped left to rt therefore giving you an inch or more movement fore or aft. Now with the engine correctly positioned then you can mount your transmission bracket and finally have your drive shaft manufactured. Of course, the big assumption here is that all the SVM parts are produced to the same specs.
(You know what they say about assumptions

ACC427US · #22 (**permalink**) 07-07-2001, 10:56 PM

Campy: By tail I mean the rear section of the body. When I put it on the frame without the trunk section, it sat on the tires. I'm not so much concerned about aligning the body, I guess I'm more concerned about picking something up off the ground into the fiberglass and into my a%%$.

So I guess you just have the fiberglass bottom between you and the frame. I'll continue to go that way for now.

The engine is a 427Side Oiler. You're right about those motor mounts. So far it looks like there are at least two completely different shaped motor mounts available for FEs. One will be about 2" higher than the other.

Steve Emerson · #23 (**permalink**) 07-08-2001, 09:51 PM

ACC427US,
I'm new to the site and have a Shell Valley Cobra. I also had the same problem with the rear wheelwells. The right rear was about 1 to 1 and 1/2 inch higher than the left. In fact, when I drove it for the first time, the left rear tire drug on the
top of the wheelwell. I tried compensating with the adjustment of the coilovers and have been somewhat successful. I have about 1 and1/2 inch of threads showing below the nut on the left shock, and 1/2 inch on the right. The right side still has 1/2 inch more clearance than the left but the left no longer drags (except momentarily when I go over big bump).
I too considered trying to shim up the body but decided there would be a visible angle formed between the rear bottom
edge of the body and the edge of the frame below it. I have been meaning to talk to Shell Valley about this but haven't
as yet. Have you? I have been concerned that the difference in the ajustment of the shocks might affect handling and
left versus right rear wheel traction. Doesn't it tend to wedge the rear like the circle track boys do? Any ideas on this?
Steve emerson

Campy · #24 (**permalink**) 07-09-2001, 03:04 PM

My opinion, it should not make much difference provided you in a straight line and a relatively smooth road.

You mention what the "circle track boys" do, when you think about it look at thier cars, they intentionally create a lean toward the center of the circle. All you are doing is attempting to straighten things out. I think the effect of unbalanced suspension on your car will be most obvious on a bumpy pavement. One wheel will have a tendancy to absorb the bump easier than the other. In other words, the side with the tighter spring tension (in this case your lt side) will exsert a greater force on that frame as compared to the side with less spring tension. As the car travels over a bump it will be pushed with unequal force which could create a "walking" effect.

You may have no choice

Test it out and hope for the best.

JOHNNYCOBRA · #25 (**permalink**) 07-13-2001, 11:35 AM

Just checking in to the discussion. I own an older Shell Valley. and started the rebuild process, updated suspension, engine etc.. I too wnt thru some hassels with the body but finally got it worked out. I re-fiberglassed the mounting holes in the body and re-drilled them, this let the jbody sit level on the frame. also had to re-drill the bolt hole locations in frame. it all seems to be centered and leveled now! I'm having a little trouble with the door hinges not wanting to re-install to the same locations they came off of, Probably because the body placement changes??

wadesdad · #26 (**permalink**) 07-13-2001, 11:53 AM

Gentlemen,

Molds for these cars were often from an original handbuilt Cobra. Many of the orignial bodies were manually modified to accomodate bigger wheels for certain events etc. Put away your slide rules! Do what looks right. I know it can be frustrating when you want you dream car to be just right.

If you've ever worked on an old home you'll understand.

JOHNNYCOBRA · #27 (**permalink**) 07-13-2001, 07:36 PM

your absolutely right , I also own a vicrtorian home built in 1900
and to make it right you have to go with what you think is right. if building a cobra was easy every one would own one!

By the way I started with expectation that, it would be a difficult
task to undertake the complete rebuild and restoration of this car.

Guy's if its too easy, you would'nt appreciate the time you spend on your lifelong dream.

SVMCOBRA · #28 (**permalink**) 07-20-2001, 04:06 AM

Campy, what motor mounts did you end up using? I used the ford part number that was in the assembly manual. I ask this question because after installing my tremec the trans sits way to high (about 5") above the the crossmember.

If I to have the wrong mounts then this would answer the question as to why it is so high. But if I drop the motor 2" then the driverside header will hit the frame. Also what transmission mount did you use?
Thanks, Ray

Campy · #29 (**permalink**) 07-20-2001, 02:34 PM

SVMCOBRA,

I used the Ford motor monts as indicated in the assembly manual.
Part # D00Z-6038G. I purchased them at NAPA.

Note that the top of the engine should sit parallel to the frame you can get away with a slight downward angle of the transmission. I had to trim about 3/4" off the top of the transmission mount, which is the standard one supplied by SVM. I attached it to the frame with four 3/8" grade 8 bolts.

Center the trans. output-shaft laterally in the frame. You should be OK. I put my air filter on and laid a line level on the top of the filter. Actually my engine has a very slight upward angle. I personally don't think a slight angle would hurt a thing.

Good Luck

SVMCOBRA · #30 (**permalink**) 07-21-2001, 02:59 AM

Thanks for the info Campy. I am just a little concerned about the difference in the hight of the trans and the hight of the rear end yoke. There is about 6" difference. This looks like it might be to much drive shaft angle, but I guess I will find out once I have it made.

Ray

flipper35 · #31 (**permalink**) 08-02-2001, 03:55 PM

I purchsed my SVM Cobra in '95 when Steve Swaboda still owned the company. The body came assembled separate from the frame and the suspension was hung from the factory. The only major problem I had mounting was the front end was a little low. I used 2 wooden blocks between the frame and body to get it at the right height and put the front bumpers on. I would make sure the body sits level on the frame and adjust the preload on the springs to make the frame sit level. It'll look better that way and drive better with an even preload. Overall my experience with Shell Valley wasn't too bad and is a good value for the price. One problem not related to the body though, I broke a shock piston shaft on one of the shocks that came with it. I called SVM and found out they were bought out and these guys were very helpfull and the new shocks are built and look much better than before. When you are done it will be very worth it. I also had me motor mounts custom welded so I could:
1. Place the engine lower in the engine bay.
2. Mount my engine since they didn't have a mopar option.

If you have access to a local shop, do it. It isn't very expensive and you can lower the engine/transmission ass'y to match up to the rear end. Also make sure your measurements are with the car close to it's completed weight since the suspension will compress a few inches than when bare.

ACC427US · #32 (**permalink**) 08-04-2001, 04:05 PM

Flipper35,

Did you leave the board in or what? I keep measuring around the frame and can't get the frame sides even. Driver's side front it 9", passenger side is 10". I have tightened both right side adjustables to the max. Any ideas?

flipper35 · #33 (**permalink**) 08-06-2001, 10:05 AM

I left the board in, it was a treated 2x4 cut to fit in between the frame rail and inner fender. I just painted it to match. Where are you measuring the body/frame?

ACC427US · #34 (**permalink**) 08-06-2001, 03:49 PM

Measured at teh weld where the frame turns up about 30 degrees towards the front shock

flipper35 · #35 (**permalink**) 08-06-2001, 04:03 PM

Mine fit fine along those rails and on the trunk rails but the bumper holes in the nose were too low on the body by about 1/2". Did yours come with the cowl hoop pre-installed?

ACC427US · #36 (**permalink**) 08-06-2001, 06:21 PM

The cowl hoop was inside the dashboard area but not bolted or mounted to anything. Doesn't look like the windshield mount point is correct, but I guess I'll worry about that when I get the windshield.

By the way, your comments are pretty worthwhile.

Thanks

Campy · #37 (**permalink**) 08-06-2001, 07:09 PM

Hello ACC427US

Excuse me for budding in but I thought I could add some assistance.

You are correct about the cowl hoop. What I did was install the windshield and the 90-degree brackets that sandwich in-between the cowl hoop windshield support and then attach to the firewall. (If you don't have room to spare, you can attach the brackets on the interior side of the cowl hoop support instead of in-between the windshield arm and hoop support). Once all these are snugged up, the door hinges are installed and welded on the door plates and the lower floor section of the cowl hoop are bolted down, then and only then do you weld the cowl hoop into one piece. Make sure you center the tubes that connect the upper and lower sections together.

The fit is snug and you will have to coax the windshield side arms a bit. Remember you don't want too much pre-load either outward or inward on the windshield arms. This will cause premature failure.

As a side note, my body as it was shipped to me was almost perfect. The front and rear bumper supports required very little adjustment.