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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-03-2011, 03:43 AM
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I replaced my springs once with that tool you have and without a doubt was pulling metal particles and one splinter from the head with a magnet when done. It is a POS at $5.00 or $5,000. I also paid the kid across the street $20,00 to help me for an hour, he would work the tool I would remove the wedges. Get the one that screws on the stud and breaks over. The problem I have is to much experience which is frustrating when I see all the ignorance. Would you like a picture if the elongated hole in the tool from the studs tearing metal from it?
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-03-2011, 07:24 AM
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Okay, perhaps I have one that's better made. Anyway, to each his own and Chris needs to hear options.

Good luck with your troubleshooting!
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 12-03-2011, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by mreid View Post
Unbelieveable. In typical forum fashion, we love spending other people's money. Those springs are huge and were made for a very high lift solid roller cam which I was changing in the picture. Also notice that those heads are set up with Jesel rockers. My son was compressing the spring in the picture only so we could take a picture. It is very easy to use by yourself. I've used that spring compressor on many engines over the last 20 years with zero problems. The tool works fine with none of the problems stated above. Far from a POS. You guys can make poor, yet expensive recommendations based on speculation or you can defer to experience. At the end of the day, it is your choice, Chris.
I have the same one as in your pics and used it a number of times and have never had any problems with it either.......works just fine for me.....

David
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 12-03-2011, 08:58 AM
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Check out my add in for sale section. You can buy mine. I still have never figured out how to post pics in thread so I posted in the for sale section. I guess I am to use to using intuitive apple products.

Last edited by madmaxx; 12-03-2011 at 09:00 AM..
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 12-03-2011, 05:48 PM
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Check out my add in for sale section. You can buy mine. I still have never figured out how to post pics in thread so I posted in the for sale section. I guess I am to use to using intuitive apple products.
I could use a spare, would you take payment is small unmarked bills sent from my Nigerian cousin???????

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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2011, 09:08 PM
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Just a update, i have spoken to marty from ford racing seems like they have another motor there with simular issues and has told me to hold on and they will email me some different things to try, i'm not really happy at all about this i have spent alot of money and have a dud and my mechanic has done all he can do and is waiting on instructions from me on what to do next, dam i new i should have bought that roush, i have 2 friends who bought roush engines and have had no issues at all, i wanted to be a little different plus i had a carb and dizzy so thought i would go with the ford racing motor as was cheaper due to not coming complete, i really hope they help me out soon my mechanic does not have alot of room and christmas is coming, not so merry for me this year, i was looking forward to some summer nights cruising with the top down.
cheers chris.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2011, 02:47 AM
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this thread just keeps gettin' weirder and weirder.....
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2011, 09:41 PM
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How did we miss you on that 427 SB. We are a little more than Ford but quite a bit less than Roush. If the engine is truly complete and dyno tested you can eliminate these problems. I sent quite a few engines over seas and would not do one with out dyno testing and checking all of this.
We all have problems but making sure it is ran before it leaves is the best way. Ford Racing just has there regular engine rebuilding company do these. I have sold them but when not complete you can not be sure.

Good luck, Keith Craft
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Old 12-10-2011, 10:37 AM
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I havn't seen any mention of the type of oil that's in this motor, if you are running synthetic in a new motor these are just the sort of problems you are going to get. Just a thought

Mike
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Old 12-10-2011, 11:27 AM
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I havn't seen any mention of the type of oil that's in this motor, if you are running synthetic in a new motor these are just the sort of problems you are going to get. Just a thought

Mike
Tell that to GM and the last 15 years of corvettes that had Mobil 1 from day one...
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2011, 11:53 AM
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Tell that to GM and the last 15 years of corvettes that had Mobil 1 from day one...
Why pick out Corvettes, ALL OEM stuff runs synthetic from day one but this isn't an OEM motor it's a crate motor with all the problems therein.

Mike
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2011, 02:08 PM
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Not at all comparable. Factory builds do not use the same honing techniques or machines as we do in the aftermarket. In addition there is a fair chance that they are not started on gasoline for the first spin - CNG, propane or spun up with an electric motor drive to verify oil pressure and such before install.

When I ran Speed-Pro we regularly had well established shops that tried break-in with synthetic and experienced ring sealing troubles that they did not have with normal oil. Back to dino and the problems simply went away - no accident and enough frequency to state that it was not coincidental. Synthetic on first fire is simply a risk taken without any reward. Even if the odds are 90-10 its too easy to eliminate the variable.

Oil burning can come from a lot of places - many of which will never show up in any performance oriented testing - leakdown and compression checks won't show you a thing.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2011, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keithc8 View Post
How did we miss you on that 427 SB. We are a little more than Ford but quite a bit less than Roush. If the engine is truly complete and dyno tested you can eliminate these problems. I sent quite a few engines over seas and would not do one with out dyno testing and checking all of this.
We all have problems but making sure it is ran before it leaves is the best way. Ford Racing just has there regular engine rebuilding company do these. I have sold them but when not complete you can not be sure.

Good luck, Keith Craft
But thats it, i have a piece of paper stating it was run for 20 min before packed and shipped, i would have thought this problem would have been picked up then,this motor started smoking from when we first started it as it got to normal temp, and as i have stated my mechanic pulled the inlet manifold and no evidence of oil getting sucked through the gaskets but the combustion chambers had to much oil in there for his liking, he thinks the rings may have been put in the wrong way but all 8! every plug is oiled up, i tried with pvc and with a breather no difference,i hope they don't take to long for a sollution, i'm not getting a good night sleep ATM.
cheers chris.ps non synthetic oil was used 10-40 as was recomended by ford racing tech line.

Last edited by 68pony; 12-10-2011 at 11:37 PM..
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2011, 11:14 PM
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Agree with Barry here, I always suggest dino oil on break in. We use Jo Gibbs break in oil that is special formulated for new engines and break in.
You should have been able to look at the engine and tell if it had been run. I think they spin them or do a oil pressure check and an air leak check on these engines. If they did not start it and go through a break in process and actually run the engine they would not have found this. I have had a few over the years that have had a ring seat problem and knew it pretty quick. Had to pull a few down and re-hone and install new rings. You can have a problem with anything so this is the reason we run them before we ship them out.
I hope you find something simple that will fix the problem. Do you have a lot of blow by, this is a sign that the rings are not sealed. You could just have an oil ring problem. Like Barry said a leak down or even a compression check is not much help. The easy thing would be if it is the seals. Does it ever get better under any conditions?

Thanks, Keith
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Old 12-10-2011, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Keithc8 View Post
Agree with Barry here, I always suggest dino oil on break in. We use Jo Gibbs break in oil that is special formulated for new engines and break in.
You should have been able to look at the engine and tell if it had been run. I think they spin them or do a oil pressure check and an air leak check on these engines. If they did not start it and go through a break in process and actually run the engine they would not have found this. I have had a few over the years that have had a ring seat problem and knew it pretty quick. Had to pull a few down and re-hone and install new rings. You can have a problem with anything so this is the reason we run them before we ship them out.
I hope you find something simple that will fix the problem. Do you have a lot of blow by, this is a sign that the rings are not sealed. You could just have an oil ring problem. Like Barry said a leak down or even a compression check is not much help. The easy thing would be if it is the seals. Does it ever get better under any conditions?

Thanks, Keith
Cold start no smoke as the motor gets hot(normal temp)it starts to smoke out the tail pipes at idle, my mates said when i took off from a set of lights the smoke would go away and return after stopped at a set of lights again,there is no blow by, does this info help, by the way i appreciate the help guys.
cheers chris.ps my mechanic could not tell if the engine was run looked very clean but there is a document stating it was run for 20 min and again non synthetic oil was used a 10-40 as recomended by ford racing tech line.

Last edited by 68pony; 12-10-2011 at 11:59 PM..
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