Best tool for Adj Lifters

[289ERAkit]

Hello All,

Looking for the best tool for adj solid lifters for SBF. LSM has a torque type set to 22lbs... with three T handles..... will this work for SBF ? Is it worth it ? thanks mike

[blykins]

Closed end wrench, T-handle, and feeler gauges.

I wouldn't bother with any of the frilly tools for setting lash.

[289ERAkit]

ok ... sounds good thanks

[lippy]

Agree with Brent. What I do is set the lash *very slightly* looser than spec, tightening the nut with a closed-end wrench (snug, say roughly 10-15 ft-lb, by feel) while creating opposing force/holding the adjusting screw tight with a T-handle. Then I check the lash again. If things didn't move and it's still good, I then torque the nut with a good torque wrench. The two tightening steps, if I do them right, will close the lash a tiny bit (less than a thousandth) and I'll be spot on at the end.

[289ERAkit]

Yes... I can see that the final ..torque would need to be checked, and I'll take the advise on how to lash it "slightly". thanks mike

[1795]

Make sure that you use a T-handle allen wrench instead of a standard allen wrench. The standard sized one is quite small and if you drop it there is the possibility of it falling down an oil channel

[Bernica]

Originally Posted by 1795

Make sure that you use a T-handle allen wrench instead of a standard allen wrench. The standard sized one is quite small and if you drop it there is the possibility of it falling down an oil channel

Yup! Then your least worries will be setting rockers! T-handle for sure!

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by 289ERAkit

Hello All,

Looking for the best tool for adj solid lifters for SBF. LSM has a torque type set to 22lbs... with three T handles..... will this work for SBF ? Is it worth it ? thanks mike

Uhhh, like my little valve gapper, discussed here: Valve cover gasket alternatives to cork

[lippy]

Get these: [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-13390-T-handles-Stand-8-Inch/dp/B00012WYEC?ie=UTF8&keywords=bondhus%20allen%20wren ch%20set&qid=1459988597&ref_=sr_1_7&sr=8-7"]Bondhus 13390 Set of 10 Hex T-handles with Stand, sizes 3/32-3/8-Inch - Hex Keys - Amazon.com@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41CPRQBTTVL.@@AMEPARAM@@41CPRQBTTVL[/ame]

When I do mine, I put rags around where I am working, so I don't drop something in. Sensitive subject for me, as I recently dropped a nut into my dizzy hole (that sounds naughty) and had to drop my pan to get it out.

[1795]

The time prior to my last valve lash adjustment I did not have the T-handles and while attempting to loosen the set adjuster the allen wrench slipped out of my slightly oily hand and almost went for a trip inside the head. Stopped right there after retrieving the wrench and went out and bought some T-handle wrenches, after changing my shorts of course... No need to worry about that again.

[Gaz64]

Originally Posted by lippy

Agree with Brent. What I do is set the lash *very slightly* looser than spec, tightening the nut with a closed-end wrench (snug, say roughly 10-15 ft-lb, by feel) while creating opposing force/holding the adjusting screw tight with a T-handle. Then I check the lash again. If things didn't move and it's still good, I then torque the nut with a good torque wrench. The two tightening steps, if I do them right, will close the lash a tiny bit (less than a thousandth) and I'll be spot on at the end.

Same for me.

And the same in reverse.

Some try to loosen the set screw rather than loosen the adjusting nut.

[patrickt]

I love to waste money on Cobra tools, but the one nice point of having that valve gapper is that you can watch the needle as you tighten it down -- and you can see how much you have to lean on the adjuster to compensate for the change in gap that comes with tightening it down. If you're building engines, and doing valves on a weekly basis, it's second nature. But when you only gap your valves once every year or so, having a gauge with a face and needle makes it easier.

[lippy]

Originally Posted by patrickt

I love to waste money on Cobra tools, but the one nice point of having that valve gapper is that you can watch the needle as you tighten it down -- and you can see how much you have to lean on the adjuster to compensate for the change in gap that comes with tightening it down. If you're building engines, and doing valves on a weekly basis, it's second nature. But when you only gap your valves once every year or so, having a gauge with a face and needle makes it easier.

Yeah, but those tools are $200 if I remember correctly. And I bought a great Precision dual-beam torque wrench for less then that, and I can use it for the valve lash plus a ton of other things.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by lippy

Yeah, but those tools are $200 if I remember correctly. And I bought a great Precision dual-beam torque wrench for less then that, and I can use it for the valve lash plus a ton of other things.

That's why I call it wasting money.