Superformance evolution by chassis number

[WardL]

Matt,

I'm looking for the right SF as well. I understand if it is 1211 or greater, you will get all the significant improvements. If you found anything off-line about this subject, please let me know. The other question, seems like there are two kinds of sellers out there. One selling for about the cost of a new one and the other with an extra $20k on the price. What's the difference?

[Gunner]

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[jeffgrice]

Originally Posted by WardL

Matt,

I'm looking for the right SF as well. I understand if it is 1211 or greater, you will get all the significant improvements. If you found anything off-line about this subject, please let me know. The other question, seems like there are two kinds of sellers out there. One selling for about the cost of a new one and the other with an extra $20k on the price. What's the difference?

Hey Wardl.....

Check your private messages....sent you a lead on a car.

Jeff

[madmaxx]

If you can find used in the same condition as new, no rock chips, wear or tear, then yes the used is worth more than new for the following reasons.
1) you can see, touch and drive, previous owner took all the shipping and installation risk
2) the bugs have been sorted, it was at his inconvience to get it back to the installer, personnal mechanic or himself. The original owner time is not free
3) the car is titled so that hurdle has been crossed, you simple transfer the title and you are good to go.
4) if local you do not pay shipping etc,
5) you dont get nickel and dimed after the fact when the engine and trans are getting installed and the comment, "well it will work with that but we recommend this, and it is only $$$$$ more.

Originally Posted by WardL

Matt,

I'm looking for the right SF as well. I understand if it is 1211 or greater, you will get all the significant improvements. If you found anything off-line about this subject, please let me know. The other question, seems like there are two kinds of sellers out there. One selling for about the cost of a new one and the other with an extra $20k on the price. What's the difference?

[SP01715]

I agree. I was going to buy new (actually started with the intent to buy a CSX) and had filled out all the paper work to order it. While I was at the dealer my car came in on consignment with 2500 miles on it. I went for a ride in the car, spent a couple hours looking it over and made an offer on it. The car had (still does not) no rock chips, scratches or any other flaws I could find. I am very happy that I bought this car instead of new, but you have to find the right one. Several that I looked at had rock chips, dirty motors etc...

[RedBarchetta]

Originally Posted by WardL

I understand if it is 1211 or greater, you will get all the significant improvements.

Ward, it's actually even earlier than that. There were four (4) major enhancements that were added starting in the early/mid 6xx numbering sequence:

1. Dropped footboxes
2. Wilwood disc brakes (all four corners)
3. Chrome roll bar
4. Footwell fresh-air vents with manual valves

The 6xx sequence cars were mostly built in the 1999 timeframe. My #747 was built in Feb/Mar of 2000 for comparison and has all of the above enhancements as stock.

Hope this helps,

-Dean

[mattpatt]

Thanks for all the info, guys. I've checked the leads some of you provided and it's really helped. One of the things I "think" I'm looking for is a cobra with the 3.45 rear: looks like it started with SPO2068 (does it cost much to have ratios changed if I don't end up with a 3.45?). I'm planning on using the car for fair whether, Sunday go get breakfast and a little free-way driving (but mostly just surface streets). From what I've read I'm thinking a small block (Dart 351 base or?? - but not original Ford production) 427/500HP with TKO600 2.89 first and .82 5th is the right balance for my purposes.

I'm also expecting to occasionally use the soft-top so would want the latest style (3-frame/canvas/zippered rear window) but couldn't find when that started. Maybe some of you could reply with which top you got with your SPO #?

I've also discovered that while 17"/18" wheels give slightly better cornering (I won't be tracking it - probably rarely, if ever, push it to its limits in a corner) they give a harsher ride (don't know if that would be OK or not) and probably a very slightly slower 0-60 (I expect to be having fun getting on freeways, etc. so...): SEEMS like the 15" wheels would be better for me.

I live in Lomita CA (near Torrance) and am less than an hour from Hillbank in Irvine. I plan on visiting there in the next few weeks, ask questions, see inventory, ask questions, MAYBE actually get a ride (for the first time) in an MK3 (check out ride, sound levels, etc., etc.).

Matt

[mattpatt]

Originally Posted by RedBarchetta

In the spirit of the season, I give you my secret sauce formula:

Pinnacle Souveran yellow Brazilian pure carnauba paste wax (expensive $#it!) followed by a spritz of Zaino #8. Apply with the softest micro fiber towels you can buy (not all microfibers are alike). Maximum depth and gloss will be achieved if the base surface is clean. Works good on most finishes but is best on DARK colors.

Pinnacle Souveran "carnauba paste wax" (not the liquid)
http://www.pinnaclewax.com/souveran.html

Zaino "Z-8" (liquid)
http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/...oduct_Count=12


That's pretty much it!

-Dean

Hi Dean,

Do you wash with soap and water before applying you "sauce"? Or just water and wipe (when I was a kid I knew a guy who NEVER put soap on his car - just water and wax and it was beautiful).

thx

Matt

[Blas]

If a car is driven to any extent by its owner, you will get them... Rock chips are a fact of life...Like death and taxes…The secret is to occasionally touch them up...The first few hurt the most. Depending on the cars color touch-ups can almost disappear if done correctly. Regarding flaws on new cars, I don't think any are flawless. But to what extent you are willing to except an imperfection varies from person to person. Dealers know you are hot-to-trot to take the car home. Perhaps you should not accept the car till the problems are corrected. Bubbles in the paint, drips, scratches, areas not buffed out properly…unacceptable at delivery, but usually repairable, especially before taking final delivery. But expecting truly “flawless” is really unrealistic. MAYBE 99.9% flawless on a million dollar Bentley...and only if you took delivery at the factory, and up until you pulled on the street to leave the factory…They are painted, assembled and shipped by humans.

[purple panther]

superformance serial number k1398am1463. what year was this chassis produced? a seller says the car is a 2002 but it doesnt have a glove box. I thought the am number makes this an early car? 1998? anybody thanks

[Goober]

I have 1374 which is close and it was built in 2002

Hope this helps

Mark

[madmaxx]

I agree with Blas but there is a difference between flawless, Excellent, good and poor. Fingerprints in the clear are poor, scratch is poor. A tiny fish eye in the clear is good to excellent. There is a difference in catagories between flawless and bad. Anything less than strong good to excellent should be rejected on a new chassis.

Anything can be repaired with RISK, will the shade match, the gloss, damage incurred during the repair etc. I have seen many excellent spf paint jobs and have seen excellent paint jobs with one very bad area. That what irks me when the whole car is excellent but then there is just one panel that somehow was missed.

Originally Posted by Blas

If a car is driven to any extent by its owner, you will get them... Rock chips are a fact of life...Like death and taxes…The secret is to occasionally touch them up...The first few hurt the most. Depending on the cars color touch-ups can almost disappear if done correctly. Regarding flaws on new cars, I don't think any are flawless. But to what extent you are willing to except an imperfection varies from person to person. Dealers know you are hot-to-trot to take the car home. Perhaps you should not accept the car till the problems are corrected. Bubbles in the paint, drips, scratches, areas not buffed out properly…unacceptable at delivery, but usually repairable, especially before taking final delivery. But expecting truly “flawless” is really unrealistic. MAYBE 99.9% flawless on a million dollar Bentley...and only if you took delivery at the factory, and up until you pulled on the street to leave the factory…They are painted, assembled and shipped by humans.

[thudmaster]

purple panther
probably the only part of that serial number that means anything is 1463
......cars can be ordered sans glovebox

[Blas]

k1398am1463
Is car #463 and was actually built in 1998.
Could have been titled and sold anytime after 1998...
Don't forget, it has to get to the USA from SA.
But is is NOT a 2002 model...

[purple panther]

yes i thought it was a 1998 too. am chassis number the 1st number is meaningless. 463 is the chassis number. a very early car. thanks guys

[Blas]

There is nothing wrong with an earlier SPF car. The major changes were related to addition of dropped foot boxes, the rims, cowl height, the front brakes, wiring harness version. If you are not 6'-6" tall, no problem. Drive the car and see if you fit. The rims are probably the Trigo's and not the early steel rims with fake KO's - Trigo's are what you really want... And the SPF front brakes have just been upgraded 2 or 3 times over the years...The engine's in the car so you don't care about a taller cowl height like on the newer cars. Convertible top has been updated but of little real concern. The wiring harness has just evolved of time, no big deal. Best thing, it probably has some stone chips here and there so you can sleep soundly at night not worrying about getting one. Go look at the car and drive it...If it runs strong and looks to have been taken car of...go for it if the price is right.
FWIW: I myself prefer an older chassis with the lower cowl.

[purple panther]

i didnt say there was anything wrong with it.

[purple panther]

there is an indiana dealer advertising a superformance cobra on ebay saying its a spo640 and the chassis number is a 17 digit am number 1640. They are advertising another owners car? interesting food for thought

[RedBarchetta]

Originally Posted by mattpatt

Hi Dean,

Do you wash with soap and water before applying you "sauce"? Or just water and wipe (when I was a kid I knew a guy who NEVER put soap on his car - just water and wax and it was beautiful).

thx

Matt

My car never sees water or soap. When it gets overly dusty, I might take a damp micro fiber towel and give it a soft once over. A couple times I have taken a 50/50 mix of isopropyl alcohol and distilled water for removing wax. But usually just hitting it with spray detailer and really soft micro fiber towels does the trick for keeping it clean. The wheels need to be hit with wheel cleaner and a hose every now and then, but that's about all the water this car sees. Admittedly I got caught in one rain storm once. I think I worked on the undercarriage for 3 hours getting it back to where I like it.

-Dean

[mattpatt]

Originally Posted by RedBarchetta

My car never sees water or soap. When it gets overly dusty, I might take a damp micro fiber towel and give it a soft once over. A couple times I have taken a 50/50 mix of isopropyl alcohol and distilled water for removing wax. But usually just hitting it with spray detailer and really soft micro fiber towels does the trick for keeping it clean. The wheels need to be hit with wheel cleaner and a hose every now and then, but that's about all the water this car sees. Admittedly I got caught in one rain storm once. I think I worked on the undercarriage for 3 hours getting it back to where I like it.

-Dean

Thx, Dean

Come to think of it the guy (when I was a kid) didn't even use water either.

Good advice.

Thx

Matt