Is there a way to install the soft top without marking up the paint where it snaps in

[rsimoes]

Is there a way to install the soft top without marking up the paint where it snaps in?

[RNT]

Here's an idea for you. Buy some 3M clear paintguard film and cut small round pieces about 2" and cut a hole in the center for the snap. A compass knife might work well.

[DonC]

I got some of the 3M film and made a strip about 3" wide that follows the line of snaps. The snaps themselves usually aren't the problem since they ride on the shoulder of the posts but I was scuffing the paint as I moved the top around to position it.
DonC

[Roger Vincent]

For me, the problem hasn't been the soft top, but the tonneau cover. As it flaps in the wind while driving, it for sure will scuff the paint; at least mine did. I also have a hardtop, and it came with the protective covering between the body and the hardtop rubber seal. It works fairly well, but the protective covering itself will get scuffed over time. I just replaced the protective covering after about a year. It can be bought for about 25 bucks, finish line I think. Oh, one other thing, the rubber seal on the hardtop will turn the protective coloring yellow, which only shows in light colors (white stripes particularly).

Roger, 2080

[Bill Wells]

there are several ways :

1. use painters 'blue tape' on body under where the top will rest against it, and under the side curtains too - including a small area on the dash top where the side curtains rest when door is closed. a cheap fix , trim it to not show if you so desire. removes easily. seldom leaves any markings showing from tape . if it is for a short duration and you are not concerned about appearance, leave the blue tape on without trimming it as it will be removed before too long.

2. get some thin foam type material, like some table cloths are made from - cut to fit, use a one hole punch to punch out holes where the liftadots protrude . cut to fit as desired. not as easy to use as blue tape.

3. use thin foam rubber, apply / trim as in # 2 above .

4. get some Dr Scholl corn pads and put them on around the liftadots .

5. get some thin static cling clear vinyl type of material and cut to fit, punch holes etc as described above.'

all work fine for top or tonneau or side curtains .

i have thin soft foam rubber trimmed to fit that i use for longer durations and for short runs in the wet or cold i use the painters blue tape.

easy to do, easy to remove. easy fix. i like a plan when it comes together . bill

[Fred Hamilton]

Go to a sporting goods store and buy your self a box of gun barrel cleaning pads, hole punch a small hole in the middle and you are all set. I use mylar but I have no idea where you would fine that, got mine from work. You may also want to make sure the prongs on the tops liftdot receptacle are bent over and covered, mine were NOT.

[rsimoes]

I like the blue tape idea for as seldom as I plan to use the top. . .

[gary osborne]

A good friend and fellow SPF owner (well X-owner for right now) is a foot doc and gave me some pads he used with patients. They are about the same size as the liftadot grommets or whatever they are called and have a hole already on them. They are sticky on one side and felt on the other. Just stick them on the top felt side down and they slip right over the pins and protect the paint. Pretty sure you could pick some up for a couple of bucks at any drug store.

[Mark IV]

One of the issues other than the fabric flapping and chafing the paint is that weatherstrips and the vinyl material used for the tops and tonneaus contain an additive to keep them flexible. This outgasses and softens the paint just as it does the material. Weatherstrip left in contact with paint will cause dis-coloration and sometimes crazing/wrinkling. I would not leave a top or tonneau in contact with paint for any extended period. The tape or clear 3M material will prevent the problem.

And this was MUCH worse on ACs with nitrocelluose paint! The SPFs have urethane which is much more durable.

Rick

[Roger Vincent]

Do you think it also causes the clear Invica type stuff to discolor? It sounds like it would. At least something did where the seal of the hardtop touched the Invinca shield.

Roger

[Naumoff]

No to your original question.

Repaint the car every five to ten years.
I like scratches on my car. Makes me feel like I can have fun driving it and not worry about it so much.
People still tell me how beautiful the paint is and I know there are a lot of little scratches in it. It is Shinny Black and should shows everything.
They can't see them so don't worry about them. Have fun driving it.

[Bill Wells]

if you are using a clear mylar type of static cling material it too can discolor from the weather stripping. a common problem on 55-57 tbirds where the top weather strip rests on the paint of the rear body behind the cockpit when top is up- either hard top or soft top. some rubber seals have a unique make up that allows the oils fo the rubber to negatively interact with the paint , and bleeds thru turning the paint a grayish brown. i have used the clear type static cling lift off stuff on my 57 birds and have had them discolor too , but at least the static cling is removable when top is off- and reusable when top is back on. maybe the invinca-shield is a different make up and does not discolor but why take the chance for temporary usage. usually the invinca shield stays put , shows somewhat and i have seen some discolor over time just from sunlight - yellowing sort of . and i have seen some invinca shield LIFT THE PAINT off when it has been removed. your choice but for short term usage, ya dont want invinca shield. bill