Superformance Mkiii - Steering Coupling - U-joint

[cobras]

all looks good and tight everywhere else, i can see the u joint when i wiggle the steering wheel and the play is in the u joint. the bottom half of the joint does not move but the upper half does theres play in it.
shouldnt this be covered under warrenty tho?, car only has 700 miles on it

[Blas]

Tough call, maybe if you were the first owner...And then thru the dealership where it was originally purchased...I myself think you out of luck on this one...There's an 18xx car for sale on ebay with 17 miles on it. It's probably 5 years old...
BTW: did you still want that wiring diagram?

[Got the Bug]

Originally Posted by cobras

all looks good and tight everywhere else, i can see the u joint when i wiggle the steering wheel and the play is in the u joint. the bottom half of the joint does not move but the upper half does theres play in it.
shouldnt this be covered under warrenty tho?, car only has 700 miles on it

Did you buy the car new or used? If used, the warranty doesn't transfer to a second owner. That being said, it's a safety issue so your local SPF dealer should jump in and help you resolve the problem.

[cobras]

hi all, well i got me a new u joint turns out a local guy had one to replace the one on his car but turns out he has the older style also, now i figured that it would be an easy re and re, i loosend off the 2 allen head bolts and the u joint slides on the the splined shafts but theres no way of getting it off the shafts, anyone replace one before, whats the propper way of changing one of these out?

[Blas]

You need to remove the other end of the steering shaft down near the steering rack. You might also need to loosten the bolts on the steering rack to get the clearance you nee to remove the shaft.

[cobras]

dammm it was a bull **** job doing that, i did what you told me blas and just barely could slip the shaft out from the u joint, so i backed off the rack bolts and it gave me the room i needed, put in the new u joint and tightend it all back up..... now i turn the wheel and clunk clunk, i was like what the hell did i do wrong, it was the allen head on the lower u joint hitting the frame, for the life of me i couldnt figure out why it was hitting as it didnt before. long story short the rack had slid down and i didnt know it. therefor it was so close to the frame that the allen head on the lower u joint was hitting the frame, backed off the rack bolts pryed up the rack to where it was before and tightend it all down and smooth as silk, so if anyone will be doing this remember about the rack sliding down, mark everything before so you know where it all goes back and also befor you back of the rack mounting bolts , try to remove all the allen head bolts on the u joints, the shafts are notched to give some adjustment and will move freely when the bolts are loose BUT you will get more adjustment with the bolts taken right out,enough so that you may not have to back off the rack bolts, and also remember to center your steering wheel before putting in the new joint

thanks Blas for the tip on doing the job. man you know everything about these damm cars,great to know ur here helping us all out

[Blas]

It's really the relationship of the owners thru SCOF and CC. There isn't much that can happen with these cars that has not been discussed on SCOF or CC in great detail at one time or another. There's a lot of knowledge out there that has been shared among the owners. Knowing where to look for the info or just following the car for may years - just you pick stuff up...tinkering with the car is half the fun of ownership....I'm sure others will agree.

[MEvang]

About that rack moving. Make sure the rack is level where you have it now. If not you can introduce some bump steer into the steering. You should also have the toe checked any time the rack is moved.
Mike E
Dynamic Motorsports