Toploader oil debate???

davids2toys · #1 (**permalink**) 11-20-2011, 04:02 PM

I have done some searching around for the correct Top loader oil to use. I have seen on multiple occasions warnings about only using GL-4!
Do not use GL-5 or multiple rating oil

All I seem to find at the local stores, Advance auto or NAPA are the dual ratings and GL-5...cant find just GL-4

Anybody have thoughts on this?
Thanks...Dave

ERA Chas · #2 (**permalink**) 11-20-2011, 07:38 PM

Red Line MT 90-15 years worth behind 550HP.

RICK LAKE · #3 (**permalink**) 11-21-2011, 04:00 AM

davids2toys Dave if the trans was rebuilt and all new parts in it, I would just run a normal run of the mill gear lube through the trans for about 300 miles. This will wash out any metal partials and help breakin the syncro's of the trans. After this is choice. If you are just street driving and cruising, any semi syn oil will be fine. If you are going racing that another story and would run a different oil. 75/90w gear lube will work fine. Racing trans will run a lighter fluid like autotrans mission stuff. Looking for less drag and quicker shifting. Don't get crazy. I race and run 75/90 valvoline and change it every year. Check for metal on the drain plug, and install new fluid. The color is fine after 10-15 events. Biggest pain is installing the new fluid, need a pump or remove the tunnel of the car to fill. Rick L. Ps Dave I think the stuff you are looking for is old school of about 30 years ago. Try Dave Kee who rebuilds Toploader trannies.

davids2toys · #4 (**permalink**) 11-21-2011, 06:33 PM

I think regular non syn oil of 80w-90 weight should be fine, still have the GL-4/GL-5 issue though.
My tranny is 18 years old with 17K on it. I have no idea what it has in there for lube...works real good though!

RICK LAKE · #5 (**permalink**) 11-22-2011, 04:13 AM

davids2toys If you have no leaks, the trans is full to the plug hole, shifting is fine, put the plug back in the trans and go for a cruise. Bottom line, leave sleeping dogs lay. Don't start a problem where there is none at this time. Years are just numbers for time. I have 34 year rods, motor,crank, and t-15 trans in my jeep that I have not done anything too. It gets used for the bad snow storms. Add gas and drive. You are good. Rick L.

davids2toys · #6 (**permalink**) 11-22-2011, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

davids2toys If you have no leaks, the trans is full to the plug hole, shifting is fine, put the plug back in the trans and go for a cruise. Bottom line, leave sleeping dogs lay. Don't start a problem where there is none at this time. Years are just numbers for time. I have 34 year rods, motor,crank, and t-15 trans in my jeep that I have not done anything too. It gets used for the bad snow storms. Add gas and drive. You are good. Rick L.

Understood, and I am of the same school up to a point. This trans does have a leak so it at least needs to be topped off anyway...so, back to the problem, even at a minimum of topping of, it is not a good idea to mix lubricants especially since have NO idea of what is in there at present. My thought is to just start off fresh!

Clois Harlan · #7 (**permalink**) 11-23-2011, 05:51 AM

I run the 75/90 in my Cobra Toploader and have for over 10 years. works well on the track and off.

In my Daytona Coupe TKO 600 I removed all the fiber syncro's and replaced them with brass and in that trans I am running Castroil 30W engine oil. At least for now. I may go to 50w oil when I get it on the track after break in.

Clois

davids2toys · #8 (**permalink**) 11-23-2011, 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clois Harlan

I run the 75/90 in my Cobra Toploader and have for over 10 years. works well on the track and off.

In my Daytona Coupe TKO 600 I removed all the fiber syncro's and replaced them with brass and in that trans I am running Castroil 30W engine oil. At least for now. I may go to 50w oil when I get it on the track after break in.

Clois

75w-90 what brand and type

DAVID GAGNARD · #9 (**permalink**) 11-23-2011, 06:34 PM

Quote:

75w-90 what brand and type

Valvoline conventional oil in 75/90, recommeded by most toploader builders, mine is in a road racer,so I change it once a year.......

David

davids2toys · #10 (**permalink**) 11-23-2011, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DAVID GAGNARD

Valvoline conventional oil in 75/90, recommeded by most toploader builders, mine is in a road racer,so I change it once a year.......

David

I believe this is GL-5 correct? I also have heard it has friction modifiers in it.
I actually think I have 2 qts of Valvoline on the shelf but they are 80w-90 conventional

RICK LAKE · #11 (**permalink**) 11-24-2011, 04:04 AM

davids2toys Dave Redline sell GL-4 in all different weights from 70/80 up to 80/140. It's about 13.50 a quart Goggle it, there are alot of places Autozone has a 20% off if you order it on the web look at Redline 50204 and 50304. The other one is Amsoil sell gallons and quarts of 75w-90 api/gl-4 (MTG) Prices vary and its a full syn. If you have a GM store check part # 12346190. This is a GL-4 BUT might have friction adders. Try tightening the bolts on the tail shaft housing, this may top the leak depending if it's a gasket or rtv leaking. Happy holiday Rick L.

DAVID GAGNARD · #12 (**permalink**) 11-24-2011, 06:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davids2toys

I believe this is GL-5 correct? I also have heard it has friction modifiers in it.
I actually think I have 2 qts of Valvoline on the shelf but they are 80w-90 conventional

Just looked at the bottle,it says on the front SAE 75-90 Gear Oil, on the back is says GL-5 MT-1

The 80-90 conventional is fine......use it since you have it......I have some also,have used it when I couldn't find any 75-90 same thing on the back: GL-5 MT-1

I have never noticed any difference bewteen the 75-90 and the 80-90....trans shifts perfectly with either......

David

davids2toys · #13 (**permalink**) 11-25-2011, 05:46 PM

Thanks Rick, I will add this to the winter to do list...LOL

zrayr · #14 (**permalink**) 11-27-2011, 09:17 AM

I've got 45,000 miles on a toploader that was rebuilt by David Kee about 9 years ago. I have always used Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil in the toploader. Although others have reported issues when shifting rapidly when using a synthetic oil, I have had zero problems in this area. I originally tried the synthetic oil as an experiment, but mainly for the wear-resistance it offers. I've used both the 75w-90 and the 75w-140 with equal positive results. And no leaks either.

I recently installed the original T-10 transmission back into the car. Curious as to how the toploader had fared I removed the top plate and inspected the gears.

They all looked new. I urge you to try Mobil 1. If you don't like it for whatever reason, just drain and refill with the conventional oil of your choice. No harm done.

I'm also using the Mobil 1 gear oil in the traction loc 9" rear end. No need for a friction modifier additive as the Mobil 1 gear oil comes with it.

Gear Lubricants

Z.

davids2toys · #15 (**permalink**) 11-28-2011, 06:56 PM

This stuff can drive you nuts!
I know this may seem stupid, but, what exactly is a traction loc? I have the Salisbury Jag posi rear.
Dave

zrayr · #16 (**permalink**) 11-28-2011, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davids2toys

This stuff can drive you nuts!
I know this may seem stupid, but, what exactly is a traction loc? I have the Salisbury Jag posi rear.
Dave

traction loc is another name for posi traction.

Z.

davids2toys · #17 (**permalink**) 11-28-2011, 07:23 PM

Is it a jag?

RICK LAKE · #18 (**permalink**) 11-29-2011, 04:19 AM

davids2toys Dave there are about 10-15 different posi carriers for sale that all do about the same thing. This is to apply power to both rear tires evenly. There are gear types, clutch types, cones types, heli gear, and air types. Your rearend is a clutch type unless ERA put in an aftermarket. For the best preformance out of the posi, change the fluid every other year. Remove the cover and clean the best you can. refill the rearend and drive. THIS is important, go to a parking lot and do tight circles in both directions. This gets the fluid between the clutch packs and the new friction modifier on the discs. I do about 5 and 5 2 times. best test after this is to wet a patch on the road and do a small burn out to see if both tires spin. The water makes it easier on the diff and car to check. The other way is to get a person to hold the other wheel and measure with a torque wrench how much resistance there is before the diff carrier slips. Would need to find the spec on this from my manual. Clutch packs due wear out over time or the springs inside the rearend get soft. I spent the money and went with a Locker rearend that is mechanical. No clutches. It is harder on the street and sometimes drags a wheel around a turn. Other thing is a rearend cover to help strengthen the carrier caps and stop cap walking. This is more for abuse or racing than street cruising. I over build any part I can because of track racing and autocross. As for the tranny fluid, new trannies now run automatic trans fluid in them. It's all how the trans is setup with clearances and wear and tear. I also think it's about how good the trans gets fluid to all locations, lubes and cools gears and bearings inside the case. I couple of guys run coolers and pumps for helping cool the trans. I have a kit for this buit have tryed just a small 4" blower fans to move the dead hot air from the tunnel of the car. It seams to help the rear inboard brakes as well to push out that hot air also. Rick L.

Marcus521 · #19 (**permalink**) 11-30-2011, 08:54 PM

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Red Line MT 90-15 years worth behind 550HP.
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