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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 11-24-2011, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DAVID GAGNARD View Post
Just looked at the bottle,it says on the front SAE 75-90 Gear Oil, on the back is says GL-5 MT-1

The 80-90 conventional is fine......use it since you have it......I have some also,have used it when I couldn't find any 75-90 same thing on the back: GL-5 MT-1

I have never noticed any difference bewteen the 75-90 and the 80-90....trans shifts perfectly with either......

David
My problem with this is the GL5 rating, I have read on many occasion GL4 ONLY
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2011, 01:40 PM
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Default Spec on rear housing for torque

davids2toys 42-50 pounds to the extendsion housing to case bolts. If bolts are new and have washers I would goto 45 ft. pounds of torque. older bolts would goto about the same. 50 sounds a little high to me even if the case is iron. I would also lock-tite the bolts with a low tension. Not sure if any of the holes have liquid holes but add teflon sealer to those bolts with same tork. Good luck. Rick L.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2011, 05:46 PM
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Thanks Rick, I will add this to the winter to do list...LOL
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 11-27-2011, 09:17 AM
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I've got 45,000 miles on a toploader that was rebuilt by David Kee about 9 years ago. I have always used Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil in the toploader. Although others have reported issues when shifting rapidly when using a synthetic oil, I have had zero problems in this area. I originally tried the synthetic oil as an experiment, but mainly for the wear-resistance it offers. I've used both the 75w-90 and the 75w-140 with equal positive results. And no leaks either.

I recently installed the original T-10 transmission back into the car. Curious as to how the toploader had fared I removed the top plate and inspected the gears.

They all looked new. I urge you to try Mobil 1. If you don't like it for whatever reason, just drain and refill with the conventional oil of your choice. No harm done.

I'm also using the Mobil 1 gear oil in the traction loc 9" rear end. No need for a friction modifier additive as the Mobil 1 gear oil comes with it.

Gear Lubricants

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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 11-28-2011, 06:56 PM
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This stuff can drive you nuts!
I know this may seem stupid, but, what exactly is a traction loc? I have the Salisbury Jag posi rear.
Dave
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by davids2toys View Post
This stuff can drive you nuts!
I know this may seem stupid, but, what exactly is a traction loc? I have the Salisbury Jag posi rear.
Dave
traction loc is another name for posi traction.

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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 11-28-2011, 07:23 PM
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Is it a jag?
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2011, 04:19 AM
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Default Different names for Posi rear carriers

davids2toys Dave there are about 10-15 different posi carriers for sale that all do about the same thing. This is to apply power to both rear tires evenly. There are gear types, clutch types, cones types, heli gear, and air types. Your rearend is a clutch type unless ERA put in an aftermarket. For the best preformance out of the posi, change the fluid every other year. Remove the cover and clean the best you can. refill the rearend and drive. THIS is important, go to a parking lot and do tight circles in both directions. This gets the fluid between the clutch packs and the new friction modifier on the discs. I do about 5 and 5 2 times. best test after this is to wet a patch on the road and do a small burn out to see if both tires spin. The water makes it easier on the diff and car to check. The other way is to get a person to hold the other wheel and measure with a torque wrench how much resistance there is before the diff carrier slips. Would need to find the spec on this from my manual. Clutch packs due wear out over time or the springs inside the rearend get soft. I spent the money and went with a Locker rearend that is mechanical. No clutches. It is harder on the street and sometimes drags a wheel around a turn. Other thing is a rearend cover to help strengthen the carrier caps and stop cap walking. This is more for abuse or racing than street cruising. I over build any part I can because of track racing and autocross. As for the tranny fluid, new trannies now run automatic trans fluid in them. It's all how the trans is setup with clearances and wear and tear. I also think it's about how good the trans gets fluid to all locations, lubes and cools gears and bearings inside the case. I couple of guys run coolers and pumps for helping cool the trans. I have a kit for this buit have tryed just a small 4" blower fans to move the dead hot air from the tunnel of the car. It seams to help the rear inboard brakes as well to push out that hot air also. Rick L.

Last edited by RICK LAKE; 11-29-2011 at 04:22 AM..
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2011, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RICK LAKE View Post
davids2toys Dave there are about 10-15 different posi carriers for sale that all do about the same thing. This is to apply power to both rear tires evenly. There are gear types, clutch types, cones types, heli gear, and air types. Your rearend is a clutch type unless ERA put in an aftermarket. For the best preformance out of the posi, change the fluid every other year. Remove the cover and clean the best you can. refill the rearend and drive. THIS is important, go to a parking lot and do tight circles in both directions. This gets the fluid between the clutch packs and the new friction modifier on the discs. I do about 5 and 5 2 times. best test after this is to wet a patch on the road and do a small burn out to see if both tires spin. The water makes it easier on the diff and car to check. The other way is to get a person to hold the other wheel and measure with a torque wrench how much resistance there is before the diff carrier slips. Would need to find the spec on this from my manual. Clutch packs due wear out over time or the springs inside the rearend get soft. I spent the money and went with a Locker rearend that is mechanical. No clutches. It is harder on the street and sometimes drags a wheel around a turn. Other thing is a rearend cover to help strengthen the carrier caps and stop cap walking. This is more for abuse or racing than street cruising. I over build any part I can because of track racing and autocross. As for the tranny fluid, new trannies now run automatic trans fluid in them. It's all how the trans is setup with clearances and wear and tear. I also think it's about how good the trans gets fluid to all locations, lubes and cools gears and bearings inside the case. I couple of guys run coolers and pumps for helping cool the trans. I have a kit for this buit have tryed just a small 4" blower fans to move the dead hot air from the tunnel of the car. It seams to help the rear inboard brakes as well to push out that hot air also. Rick L.
Good info Rick, thanks.
Did some checking on the MOROSO climbing gear lube today, the MOROSO engineer said it is 80-90 wieght, GL-5, no posi fluid added. he would definately recommend it for the rear end plus adding frition modifier, but a big NO for the toploader because of the GL-5 rating...needs to be GL-4.
With the rear, how much friction modifier should be added? I have an old 8oz unopened bottle of Amalie on the shelf, but i read somewhere this was not a good choice to use, but I forgot the reason why???
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2011, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by davids2toys View Post
With the rear, how much friction modifier should be added? I have an old 8oz unopened bottle of Amalie on the shelf, but i read somewhere this was not a good choice to use, but I forgot the reason why???
There's nothing wrong with Amalie -- it's good stuff. Here are the specifications for the Jag/Salisbury differentials that ERA uses (in both the Jag inboard and ERA outboard braked flavors):

Quote:
The filler and drain plugs are square. Fill to about below the bottom of the hole with Moroso climbing gear lube, SAE 90, part number 34800, mixed with 4 to 8 oz. of Amalie limited slip additive (part # 505-6775). If the above are not available, you may use 80W-90 GL5 lubricant with an equivalent limited slip additive. If the limited slip seems to be sticking (ratcheting around sharp corners), drain add refill, replacing the Amalie additive with 2 tubes of GM additive 1052358.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2011, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by davids2toys View Post
".............With the rear, how much friction modifier should be added? I have an old 8oz unopened bottle of Amalie on the shelf, but i read somewhere this was not a good choice to use, but I forgot the reason why???
why not just visit your Ford dealer and buy a bottle of the motorcraft friction modifier additive. You add the whole container, it's about 8 oz.

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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2011, 01:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
There's nothing wrong with Amalie -- it's good stuff. Here are the specifications for the Jag/Salisbury differentials that ERA uses (in both the Jag inboard and ERA outboard braked flavors):
Where did you find this?
"The filler and drain plugs are square. Fill to about below the bottom of the hole with Moroso climbing gear lube, SAE 90, part number 34800, mixed with 4 to 8 oz. of Amalie limited slip additive (part # 505-6775). If the above are not available, you may use 80W-90 GL5 lubricant with an equivalent limited slip additive. If the limited slip seems to be sticking (ratcheting around sharp corners), drain add refill, replacing the Amalie additive with 2 tubes of GM additive 1052358."
I went on the ERA site and did not find it?
Also, the engineer told be the weight of thier climbing gear oil is 80w-90.
thanks...Dave
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2011, 05:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davids2toys View Post
Where did you find this? ... I went on the ERA site and did not find it? Also, the engineer told be the weight of thier climbing gear oil is 80w-90.

thanks...Dave
Ratcheting of the rear used to have its own section in the super-secret part of the site reserved for owners only and lubrication details were outlined there. The last time I accidentally posted a direct link to that area Bob P. came by my house and threw rocks at my windows (broke two of them, in fact). But, as luck would have it, that info is also included in the "free version" of the ERA manual that is available to all. Click here: Download instructions for the manuals and web site and then click on the Free Assembly Manual for the 427 to download it (it's in PDF format). Then go to page 150 and you'll find it there, along with the capacities and suggested lubricants for transmissions as well (like the Toploader). I don't know what the true viscosities of any of the recommended stuff is, but I wouldn't second guess the manual since Jag based rears have been used exclusively in ERA cars for the last thirty years or so.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2011, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
Ratcheting of the rear used to have its own section in the super-secret part of the site reserved for owners only and lubrication details were outlined there. The last time I accidentally posted a direct link to that area Bob P. came by my house and threw rocks at my windows (broke two of them, in fact). But, as luck would have it, that info is also included in the "free version" of the ERA manual that is available to all. Click here: Download instructions for the manuals and web site and then click on the Free Assembly Manual for the 427 to download it (it's in PDF format). Then go to page 150 and you'll find it there, along with the capacities and suggested lubricants for transmissions as well (like the Toploader). I don't know what the true viscosities of any of the recommended stuff is, but I wouldn't second guess the manual since Jag based rears have been used exclusively in ERA cars for the last thirty years or so.
Very good, thank you. I love that ERA site. I have found a lot of great info their in the past
Their info for the tranny goes against what I have heard about Toploaser do's and dont's...specifically GL-5 and synthetic being OK
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2011, 05:44 PM
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I found GL4 at NAPA about 2 years ago. Haven't read all of this thread but if you are looking for a source for GL4 check there.
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