Correct clutch fork?

[2003SV]

Were you depressing the clutch when the pop occurred? I also have SBF but stroker 302 and Lakewood Bellhousing. My release fork is a mid 70’s F100/150 style (no longer available and no replacement part). Mine pivots across a thru bolt held by a U bracket. You may have one of those style of fork with an actual pivot ball as the fulcrum point. The only thng I can think is if there were fitment issues and the fork wasn’t on that pivot securely, that when you depressed, it slipped off with a pop. Given how much hydraulic force is needed to work the release fork, I’m guessing it would have been a metallic pop.

My clutch isn’t working at all (post on fork travel). I replaced my flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate but didn’t carefully measure new .vs. old and the fingers on my pressure plate are has high as what I replaced. I had to space out the U bracket holding the pivot bolt guessing that 3/4” fork travel would be enough to articulate the fingers of the pressure plate (translates to a 3/8”) push. I guessed wrong. So I’m left trying to figure out if I can space enough to get my clutch to work OR ...

...Look into another solution. Tilton and I think McLeod make a hydraulic throwout bearing for T5/TKO/Toploader (and a others). I’m looking into that as a solution. If for some reason the fork you have just isn’t going to work, that may be a solution. Based on what I’ve uncovered, you need a 7/8” master push enough fluid and you have limit clutch pedal travel as at least the Tilton has no internal limit. Over traveling the hydraulic TO will destroy it. This is what I’ve read, I have not implemented this solution so please do your research if you think that might be what you need to do, if you can’t locate a fork. (You know it occurred to me that maybe contact Lakewood as they may have a solution). Heck I just thought of this myself! (Off to email Lakewood on MY problem).