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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2009, 10:01 AM
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Regarding your driveshaft questions:

The yoke (goes into the end of the transmission) splines/length needs to be correct for your transmission. I suggest that since it sounds like you are not that framiliar with the drive train (and to save you time & money in the long run) that you visit the "driveshaft shop" that will be doing the shortening and get some information on what you will need to get for your driveshaft. They should be able to tell you which rear flange & yoke you will need and how to measure for your application. For a ballpark on cost, we just had a driveshaft made (for another project) in San Leandro we supplied the flanges/yoke it cost about $225, this included new u-joints. Check with the guy's in Sac area for suggestions on an area driveshaft shop.

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Mike
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2009, 02:30 PM
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HRay, keep up the good work. I am building a Pacific Roadster and it is ready to paint. Have just shy of 300 hours in it and have really enjoyed the build. Just have to pull the body for paint then do the mechanical, put it back together and drive it. Simple. Just one question, what have you done about registering your car?

Autobody Prof.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2009, 08:25 PM
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Ray check Drive Line services in West Sac. they did my drive shaft before i moved and only charged $150.00 bucks I took them a yoke and they made the shaft and installed the yoke with new jounts(3) one was an extra just in case.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2009, 09:24 PM
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hey guys, friday nite update:

On the registering, I got a sb100 number two years ago. hopefully that will make it easy, this jan need to get another one for the other cobra.

On the Drive shaft, One advantage of being old, is that you have done lots of things and maybe had lots of jobs, in 73-75 I worked in a blacksmith shop in central illinois and made drive shafts and shortened along with lots of other types of black smith work.

This am I went to junk yard, found drive shaft from 83 tbird, brought it home and shortened it already, done deal, only cost total of $40.00

this is it;
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3521/...ef7a5d5e_b.jpg

also found the power steering pump, all the brackets and pulleys needed for power steering, and alternator stuff.

But being old still does not protect you from some impulse purchases, as walking past this t-bird I noticed the spare tire donut, now mind you I just assumed cobras never carried spares, but this donut caught my attention, and even if not on my shopping list I could not leave it in the trunk of that car. after you see it you may see my weakness.

It cost $13.00 plus tax. It even has the warning sticker on it not to exceed 50 mph. the tire has never been on the ground, mind you it does need some cleaning.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2446/...2082d373_b.jpg

Total spent today $140.00 budget left is 2651.00
time remaining to finish is 460 hours.

grand kids spent much of the day so did not get much wrench time.

Last edited by Hray; 09-18-2009 at 10:57 PM..
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2009, 09:54 PM
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that cant be the stock rim from a t-bird can it ? I think I would have snapped that up also good buy on the spare..........the drive shaft looks just fine also........keep going and you may make the Auto Rama in Feb.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2009, 10:51 PM
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Bob: I have never seen a spare like that one, does not have brand identies on it, but it is a donut rim and tire, rim is very narrow and tire for sure is emergency tire. someone must have paid a penny for it, I did unscrew the mounting wing nut to remove it.

Auto rama is just a target, while i may pinch pennies, I am not going to let down on the quality of the work done just to make auto rama. If I make it fine if not then I for sure will be a long ways down the road near completion by then. I am capable of doing show quality work when I want.

Back to drive shaft for those interested. I still do not exactly what trans I have, and since most of my experience is with old cars, 60 and older I was not acquainted with this new trans stuff and the newer way to bolt up drive shafts so did not know what would interchange.

The drive shaft that I built came from a automatic trans car, It fits just fine in this 5 speed stick, I would say it has a fine spline on it. I did lots of measuring and did not find any differences in the size of the rear u joint housing on the fords, so just maybe they are all the same at least in regards to this 82 t-bird rear end I have in the car.

I used to put drivelines on a lathe and cut either the front or rear off to shorten the driveline. Without that I use any means possible to get a nice square cut. Prior to cutting I run a straight edge down at least three places from end to end and also place line up marks about where I am going to cut the shaft. Then cut the shaft. then I make another cut about 1.5 inches from the rear piece. then cut some lines in to just about the end connector. then with vise grips I can peal off the remaining shaft material like a sardine can. then take a grinder and clean up the old welds. I file the inside of the shaft to clean it up. i will use a square to make sure the cut is square. if not then I grind it until it is completely square to the sides. then press the end piece back on the shaft and I have at least three marks to line up. this will make sure the ujoints stay square to each other. then reweld it.

I have made maybe 2 dozen of these over the years and so far have never had to have any balance or trued. also none of them have went over 100 mph. I figured if they ever vibrated I could take it in for balancing and truing if needed.

If anyone would like photos of this let me know and I will post them. if not I will save the space in that internet domain.

Ray
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2009, 03:48 AM
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Ray,
I "thought" I had seen it all concerning 'self built' cars, but that driveshaft is very impressive! Gold star for that one!

DV
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2009, 01:58 PM
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Hray,

Pictures and description of your PS pump and bracket, please.

Are you planning to run V-belts or the flat "serpentine" type?

Thanks!
Dwain
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2009, 03:18 PM
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Ray,
I just peeked at your 'donut!" Are you going to run "4" lug?
DV
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2009, 07:50 PM
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DV: I am running four lug, the 10 spoke polished rims with comp TA's will be the rim and tire. they are inch 16 rims with very beefy tires.
picture of rim below link.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3502/...f73c55ae_b.jpg

Regarding the power steering pump, the pump I purchase with brackets do not on first attempt want to hook up the way I took them off.

the car came with a power steering rack already on it, so I thought I would run it, once figured out I will let you know and take pictures. I may have to go with one of those small import pumps.

does anyone know if power steering pump from a regular style steering box will work with the mustang II set up. My thought is that it would.

i am going to run v belts,

Ray
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2009, 05:03 PM
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Ray....after seeing some of the other cars in your shop i have no doubt that the Cobra is going to be a stunning example of your abilities. The Auto Rama would be a great place to debut it.Keep up the good work and MAYBE i can be there to see it in Feburary.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2009, 06:48 PM
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Default power steering and hoses update

Taking a short break this afternoon, waiting for sun to get down a little to put shade in the front door of the shop, excellent time for updates.

The power steering pump is installed, this pump came off of a 86 bronco, complete with the bracket. i removed some sort of extra metal bracket and it then lined up fairly good. I had to shim it out some more from the bronco application. i think my lower pulley for some reason was about half inch further out. i used some washers as temp, i will replace with a better sleeve upon disassembly for painting and clean up. Only problem now is the connection at the power rack is different than the one that came with the donor hose. i will have to find some way to convert it. if nothing else just get a new hose made from scratch.

here is picture;
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2482/...eda5e541_b.jpg

The next big change has been the lower hose setup. I guess Tcrist felt sorry for me. He brought up this fancy dancy double bent tubing and gave it to me. Great improvement, thanks Mr. T.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2426/...c0d1d3a4_b.jpg

Next I did some cutting and grinding on the alternator bracket that also came off the 86 bronco. I still am not totally sold on it, but it will do for test firing the motor, and until I can find or make something else. maybe more grinding and forming it will make it better.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2565/...0d871238_b.jpg

Yesterday I took the ash tray from the 56 belair down to paint store to find the colors. Looks like the technical name is canyon red firemist, and heather firemist for the colors from 85 cadillac.

looks like all the base coats, primers, clear coats, etc will come to about 600.00. My first off the cuff guess and budget was about 1K.

I have spent another 30$ on the car, and logged in about another 7 hours so far with yesterday and today. gotta check the math to see what balance is.

later and have a good week next week to all of you.

Last edited by Hray; 09-20-2009 at 11:12 PM..
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2009, 09:44 PM
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Ray,
I just thought of something. We were talking about the dash and I said that it sets on top of the cowl bar. If I remember correctly it looks like your cowl bar is missing the lip that the dash sets on. Take a look at your other Cr and I think that you will see what I mean. Or you can take a look at my photo gallery and there is a picture of my rolling chassis with the cowl bar installed. You can see the lip that I am talking about. It is the 33rd picture.

Terry
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2009, 10:52 PM
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Gee... Can I stop by next time I am in Sac.. I would love to see your project. Maybe I will bring my CR with me.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2009, 11:04 PM
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OneFastmustang: good to hear from you, I was thinking of coming over to see you and get some pictures, remember we chatted a couple years ago.

absolutely, please come give me some insights, I want to chat with you for sure.

Tonite I changed out the carb, took the holly off and put on an edelbrock, runs much better, seems to have a mild lope to the motor, since I did not build the motor I have no real idea of what is in it, but supposedly the guy said it should be close to 300hp. tomorrow I will put in the fluids and let it get up to running temp. Maybe even cruise it in the neighborhood.

I think I still have your phone number in my cell, I will call and get you my cell number so you can give me a heads up on coming over.

I want to ask you about places to weld on some studs for ground wires to attach. and thinking of welding in some bases for roll bar.

later gonna read some more of DV's notes to see how the pros do it.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2009, 11:11 PM
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tcrist; I looked at your photo, I see what you mean, mine is missing something as compared to yours. Is your car a crII or limited.

I will take a photo and post it, maybe others can chime in on this. I will see what others photos appear to be like.

Thanks for pointing that out, should be easy enough to weld on a flat bar across that I am guessing.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 09-21-2009, 04:30 AM
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Ray,
The "Cowl Bar is critical. Everything is based off of the cowl bar; body mounting, gauge locations, door hinge plates, door alignment, etc. My thought....find one....

CR, CRII, Limited - are all the same!
DV
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 09-21-2009, 06:47 AM
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Ray,
Mine is a CR LTD like yours. As I mentioned above, check out your other one. Hopefully they did not remove that lip on it.

Terry
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 09-21-2009, 07:49 AM
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Terry,
Does Ray have an 'extra - spare' cowl bar!?
I can't imagine why or for what reason anyone would cut off the mounting flange?
DV
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Old 09-21-2009, 09:51 AM
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DV,
Ray has "2" CR kits. He should have another cowl bar on the other one. Hopefully the other one still has the lip and he can measure that one and weld a new one on.

Terry
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