Club Cobra Gas-N Exhaust  

Go Back   Club Cobra > Manufacturers, Engine Builders, tools, and parts. > Classic Roadsters II

Nevada Classics
MMG Superformance
Main Menu
Module Jump:
Nevada Classics
Nevada Classics
MMG Superformance
MMG Superformance
Advertise at CC
Banner Ad Rates
MMG Superformance
MMG Superformance
MMG Superformance
March 2024
S M T W T F S
          1 2
3 4 5 6 7 8 9
10 11 12 13 14 15 16
17 18 19 20 21 22 23
24 25 26 27 28 29 30
31            

Kirkham Motorsports

Like Tree1Likes

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #81 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2009, 01:19 AM
Double Venom's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Pentwater, Mi
Cobra Make, Engine: Professional Cobra & Streetrod Builder
Posts: 5,352
Send a message via AIM to Double Venom
Not Ranked     
Default

OK, Thank you Sir, after I thought about it I assumed that is what you meant!
Make sure you bolt the body down tight to do the doors. That way when you're done you can take the door off to paint. Then re-bolt for the final assembly and all will match up!
DV
Reply With Quote
  #82 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2009, 10:53 AM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sacramento, ca
Cobra Make, Engine: classic roadesters ltd, 302, T5
Posts: 318
Not Ranked     
Default

Ed: Thanks for heads up on bolting down the body first.

In doing model A fords which have no door adjustment at all, you adjust the body to the door, as compared to adjusting the door to the body. I figured this would be a combination of each.

A little secret, once the doors are fully adjusted then prior to removal drill a small hole thru the cowl plate thru the hinge, then insert a small roll pin, (two are better. then the roll pin in this case will remain on the hinge. When reinstalling the door the two roll pins will place the hinge in the exact same position it was previously. Alternatively, you can just drill the holes, and then use an ice pick or similar device to place the doors in the exact same position. This trick can also be used on hood hinges or similar situations.

Here I go dreaming again, by this week end, I hope to have a completely new set of hinges made that would be 6 way adjustable, that would have the entire door opening to the outside of the fender, and once installed with roll pins would not move at all. After built to my satisfaction jigs will be built for production. For my first set I have cut off the hinge sleeve and used the bushings and sleeve to attach to these prototypes. If successful I will have to find a suitable pin and bushing and sleeve for production.

Wish me luck,
Reply With Quote
  #83 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2009, 12:35 PM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Sacramento,Ca., Ca.
Cobra Make, Engine: Midstates (2001)
Posts: 1,724
Not Ranked     
Default

Building a better mouse trap...............is there a great demand for those hinges?????
Reply With Quote
  #84 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2009, 12:46 PM
Double Venom's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Pentwater, Mi
Cobra Make, Engine: Professional Cobra & Streetrod Builder
Posts: 5,352
Send a message via AIM to Double Venom
Not Ranked     
Default

Ray,

Seriously study Cpt Eddies body / door installation. It shows and tells you how to install the body then the doors exactly - THEN it is guaranteed to go perfect. Takes less than ten minutes, once painted. There is a total of 6 axis points that need to be lined up- the 'ol pin alignment will work on the hood and trunk but not the doors! The bonus is the body will also fit exactly where it should be!

DV
PS-It will honestly save you hours of work! What is shown for ED'S will be the new manual. Other than this everyone is on their own!

Last edited by Double Venom; 10-01-2009 at 12:55 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #85 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2009, 01:35 PM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sacramento, ca
Cobra Make, Engine: classic roadesters ltd, 302, T5
Posts: 318
Not Ranked     
Default

Bob: I need four of these hinges, so to me that is enough demand to make a jig.

DV: I for sure will review your postings of door and body mounting prior to actually doing it. I am hoping your instructions will be adequate whether or not I am using hinges that open to the outside of the car, or to the inside of the car. The system and approach should be fairly close to the same.

Then again my new mouse trap may teach me another new dance lesson. I figure it to only cost me a days worth of work to attempt it. I already have the materials laying around in my metal scrap buckets.
I did successfully re-engineer the door hinges on my four door model A to make the doors adjustable rather than adjusting the body.

I am planning on making all 6 points of alignment at the cowl. If successful I will share with all. Ray

Last edited by Hray; 10-01-2009 at 01:38 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #86 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2009, 02:07 PM
SP01715's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF1715, Roush Built 434 ci Stroker, Dart Block, Ported AFR 205 Heads... 561 hp / 547 tq, Former Roush Show Car, Completed and Prepped By Olthoff Racing.
Posts: 1,066
Not Ranked     
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Double Venom View Post
TeleFlex is a high end type of gauge. Marine gauges are about the best gauges you can put in you car. (Waterproof and all that) the only other company I know of that make marine gauges is Livorsi, also out of Florida! Just about any quality boat has TeleFlex or Livorsi gauges. We used Livorsi for all the Double Venom cars.
DV
Gaffrig is also a very high quality marine gauge. Used to be associated with Livorsi, but they are now seperate companies. All my high end performance boats were equiped with Gaffrig. Some of the other high end automotive gauge companies also make waterproof guages for open cockpit offroad vehicles.
Reply With Quote
  #87 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2009, 02:19 PM
Senior Club Cobra Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Manteca, Ca.
Cobra Make, Engine: None, sold it
Posts: 2,439
Not Ranked     
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rustyBob View Post
Building a better mouse trap...............is there a great demand for those hinges?????
If they work as intended and you can keep the costs down, I could see a lot of CR owners that might want to convert. Especially if they are designed to be a complete R&R with no major mods the the framework. I.E. no removal of anything except to remove the door, swap out the hinges and re install the doors. It would be up to the individual to remove the "WEB" where the front of the door seals in the door frame, if they want to.
This will swing the door further away from the door jam. If you remove the "WEB" then it would make it easier to swing your legs in and out. The wife/girlfriend would appreciate it.

JMO, Terry
Reply With Quote
  #88 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2009, 02:47 PM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sacramento, ca
Cobra Make, Engine: classic roadesters ltd, 302, T5
Posts: 318
Not Ranked     
Default

DV: I am flying into Detroit and going to Ann Arbor in about 3 weeks. How far are you from Ann Arbor, and how big of a steak dinner do I have to buy you to get an invite to stop by for a short visit.

Ray
Reply With Quote
  #89 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2009, 04:05 PM
Double Venom's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Pentwater, Mi
Cobra Make, Engine: Professional Cobra & Streetrod Builder
Posts: 5,352
Send a message via AIM to Double Venom
Not Ranked     
Default

spo...
Dead on, when we built DV Livorsi and Gaffrig were still together, Gaffrig IS a top notch gauge. Sorry I for forgot them!

Ray,
we couldn't be farther away from Detroit and still be in the same state! North a little then due west until you hit water! Invitation!? Fella my shop is open 7 days a week, 52 weeks a year! Entry fee? Love old fashioned plain donuts! (You can take the cop out of the city....but...)
DV
Reply With Quote
  #90 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2009, 10:18 PM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sacramento, ca
Cobra Make, Engine: classic roadesters ltd, 302, T5
Posts: 318
Not Ranked     
Default

A little digression, back to the trial fit of doors, hinges and other stuff. I might help if I would have explained some of my reasons for doing some of this stuff, then others can either follow or we hope learn from my mistakes.

The main reason I fit the doors and other stuff to the body is that I wanted to make sure I knew how stuff actually went together, and to discover if possible where the manufacturer goofed and forgot to tap something. But, mainly all my bolts are all messed up and not in the right bags if in bags at all. I figured that by putting it together and then upon tear down I could tag and bag my bolts and stuff.

My after thought of possible leaving the doors on the sand and prep is mostly a bad one for the most part. I could work the insides and jambs. but, a person does not want to really attempt to block sand the doors, hood, deck lid or other stuff untill the car is totally assembled. There are times I may have to bono an entire fender and door or quarter panel. I want all the transitions from fenders, to doors, to fenders, and hood to fenders to be straight and flat. This can only be done with the car assembled. Or at least that is the only way I have ever done it. Once dialed in about 95 percent perfect then I can take off the doors, hood, deck lid and do the last small blocking with it off the car.

There is only so much that can be done with adjustments, most likely I will have to build up some surfaces to match others.

Plus, I wanted to get pretty much all the pieces bolted together if possible, or at least identified so I can see if I am missing anything. It might be different if I had bought the kit myself and knew I had all the parts and they were all bagged and tagged.

To door hinge, got one prototype made tonite, got it bolted on to the door and body and only tack welded together to make sure it will work.

I am hoping the factory hinges only get a person in the ball park, then some shims, and other type of adjusting and maybe slight modification are needed to fine tune the fit to the car. So with the drivers door bolted on I pulled about 6 different measurements as to how it fit the cowl, and rear latch assembly. I made a hinge and got it bolted to the passenger side. Almost every measurement is the same only a couple are about a sixteenth off. I am hoping this is close enough to be in the ball park and that I can adjust and modify much like I would the factory hinge.

My body is sitting on the other car, I will bolt this hinge and door on that car to see how well it works, if successful I will build my other three.

I will share the method of attack to building this later and provide pictures once I know it worked.

Ray
Reply With Quote
  #91 (permalink)  
Old 10-02-2009, 05:39 AM
Double Venom's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Pentwater, Mi
Cobra Make, Engine: Professional Cobra & Streetrod Builder
Posts: 5,352
Send a message via AIM to Double Venom
Not Ranked     
Default

Very interesting.....
Tcrist was working on a new hinge too. ???
Waiting for the follow up.....
DV
Reply With Quote
  #92 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2009, 09:37 AM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadsters, 302
Posts: 63
Not Ranked     
Default Hood rubber stops

I'm trial fitting the hood on my CR and found that I only have two of the four rubber stops. Does anyone have a couple extra or know where I can get my hands on a couple?

Thanks,
Jim
Reply With Quote
  #93 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2009, 10:28 AM
Double Venom's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Pentwater, Mi
Cobra Make, Engine: Professional Cobra & Streetrod Builder
Posts: 5,352
Send a message via AIM to Double Venom
Not Ranked     
Default

Napa,AutoZone,Car Quest- standard GM replacement parts. Usually on the 'HELP'' rack.
DV
Reply With Quote
  #94 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2009, 11:07 AM
snakebittexan's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Frisco, TX
Cobra Make, Engine: BackDraft, Keith Craft 408; 1967 GT500CR
Posts: 355
Not Ranked     
Default

One more thought, when your tired or rushed step back and take a break, that'll save you from unnecessary mistakes. Good luck!
__________________
CONSTANT CHANGE IS HERE TO STAY.
Reply With Quote
  #95 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2009, 10:09 PM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sacramento, ca
Cobra Make, Engine: classic roadesters ltd, 302, T5
Posts: 318
Not Ranked     
Default

Sat update: Tcrist came up to help me with hinges today, He is the one that started the discussion in the first place so I gotta blame this on him. Being short I did not want the hinges necessarily for more entry and exit comfort. I wanted it because I felt it might be safer for the paint and body after completion and with the intent of getting the body lines as close a possible. I have heard this fiberglass will expand in the heat, and what was once plenty of clearance for opening in the cool garage setting that all of a sudden when expanded in heat you may make contact with the door on the body with the original hinges. I cannot confirm nor deny that assumptions, but it sounded good to me.

You know the ole saying 'run what you brung', well in this case it is 'build it what you got.'

I started with a 3 inch channel iron because that is what was in the scrape bin. I cut them in 4 inch lengths. Then cut off one side to end up with a 1 by 3 angle iron. I am not sure they make a 1 by 3 but if they did I bet it would be pricey because if such a uncommon size.

Next out in the scrap pile was a 3.5 inch iron pipe that used to be a gate post. I had to sledge hammer off the concrete to carry the pipe up to the shop. I cut the pipe into 4 inch lengths. Then cut the pipe in half to make two half rounds. I thought this would be close to DV's U's that he mentioned to Terry in that hinge posting.

Next under my welding table are these scrap 4 by quarter inch straps. These come from the local blue collar supply. I try to keep a supply of them on hand for makeing motor mounts or use for gussets or what ever.

I cut off the sleeve for the hinge pin and bushings from the original CRL hinges.

I then made top and bottom pieces again 4 inches in length for the most part. I am going to let Terry give you the specific deminsions for all this.

I had my prototype made a couple days ago. I wanted Terry to confirm it was doable. We tried a couple different approaches to center points, etc,, and basically went back to what I developed first off.

Here is picture of hinge on the car.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2484/...749e75c6_b.jpg

Here is a picture of passengers hinge looking from rear to front
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2571/...dd1b623f_b.jpg

Here is a picture of hinge looking from front to rear
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3493/...78e689a9_b.jpg

Notice the internal brace. This could have been place at the very front of the hinge, but that would have made a very deep hinge pocket. Nothing wrong with that but I felt the angle brace would make the hinge seem smaller when looking at it with the door open. This is a massive enough hinge without making it look larger that needed.

The drivers door went on without any problem, using the exact same holes in the cowl bar plate. The passenger door for some reason dropped in the rear. Not a problem because I was planning on drilling out the original holes to about 9/16 anyway. I did drill it to that size, then was able to have enough adjustment to bring up the rear. I will use spacer between the hinge and cowl plate to shim the door out as needed. Once finaled I will install a quarter inch plate on the inside with normal size holes and basically sandwich the cowl plate between these two quarter inch plates. That should be solid enough. Depending on how I feel at the time, with the very last torquing of the hinge in place I might drill two quarter inch holes and hammer in two roll pins.

We made three sets of these hinges in about 5 hours once we decided exactly what to do. Even with getting mixed up and making too many rights and not enough lefts. We did end up with rights and lefts. Not sure if CRL's are interchangeable or not.

That is my story and I am sticking to it.
Ray

Last edited by Hray; 10-03-2009 at 10:14 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #96 (permalink)  
Old 10-04-2009, 01:01 PM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sacramento, ca
Cobra Make, Engine: classic roadesters ltd, 302, T5
Posts: 318
Not Ranked     
Default

An after thought on the hinges: Terry, what if we were to not drill the three holes for the attachment to cowl plate. Then when doing R and R, you would attach the hinge to the door. Then put the door in position with how you want it. Then reach inside or have someone else place a mark on the hinge for the three holes. Remove door and hinge, drill the three holes, then when replacing it add shims as needed for alignments.

Dv's method is the best method, cut out the plate, attache to the hinge, place door where you want it, then reweld in cowl plate, eliminates lots of problems I am sure. But, on a finished car you may not want to get out the welder, but could be done with enough masking on everything and with fire proof masking.

Went to golden state nationals Street Rod Association show this morning, saw one FFR for sale, about 40k asking price. Saw tons of street rods.

Might take the day off from cobra today, go to movies or just be lazy for a day.
Ray
Reply With Quote
  #97 (permalink)  
Old 10-04-2009, 06:03 PM
Senior Club Cobra Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Manteca, Ca.
Cobra Make, Engine: None, sold it
Posts: 2,439
Not Ranked     
Default

Ray,
My guess is that they should be a complete bolt in R&R. Probably even weld on some 3/8-16 hex nuts on the inside of the mounting plate so they mount up just like the stock hinges.

JMO, Terry
Reply With Quote
  #98 (permalink)  
Old 10-05-2009, 08:54 PM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sacramento, ca
Cobra Make, Engine: classic roadesters ltd, 302, T5
Posts: 318
Not Ranked     
Default

Summary update: (for those that did not start at the beginning) Started the build sep 12, 2009, started with 8.5K forgotten project from someone else. Hoping to finish it with only another 3K invested. Hoping it will only take 500 hours to finish it.

up to today I have 110 hours on the build, spent 450.00. Got another 2550.00 in the budget to spend. With just slightly over 3 weeks I am feeling ok so far.

Todays news: All I can say is HOLY SHEET.... this is gonna be a blast.

With the hinges behind me I decided it was time to get back on chassis and motor. Finished hooking up the gas tank and all hoses to carb. Put in some fuel and fired it up from the tank.

Stuck the speedo unit into the tail shaft of trans so I can test drive the car.
Does anyone know the part number for the plastic gear that goes in first, I have a new cable but no plast gear on it. Hopefully, the west sac speedo shop will know what I need, or trip to junk yard again.

Zip tied the dash to the cowl real solid. Ran temp wires into the dash so I can start and stop the motor from cockpit. Zip tied the temp guages to cowl so I can monitor for test drive.

Installed the carb linkage to carb and pedal. Pumped brakes some, found out the front lines had not been tightened up, did that.

Sat the seats into cockpit, sat down and turned on key, hit the starter, and got one of the greatest adrenaline rushes i have had in a long time. sitting in that thing, feeling the carb respond to pedal, watching the doors half open sit there and shake while under idle, feeling the motor vibrations up through the seat..... Man what a trip, and I aint even went any where yet.

Maybe tomorrow or latest wednesday will be the first test drive. My junk tires on it have leaks, so gotta reinstall the new rims and tires for it. Plan on driving it at least 10 to 20 miles before disassembly for cosmetic stuff.

I figure to run the wiring harness after chassis is painted and motor reinstalled, and firewall has been painted. If I can have it disassembled by the 12th, that is one month from start date. Maybe not too bad, but still a long way to go.
Reply With Quote
  #99 (permalink)  
Old 10-06-2009, 06:45 AM
Wbulk's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: American Fork, Ut
Cobra Make, Engine: 66 Cobra
Posts: 930
Not Ranked     
Default

The Drive gear will depend on your rear axle ratio, size of rear tires, and the number of teeth on the drive gear in the trans. This may help.

[url="[URL="http://www.hanlonmotorsports.com/t5speedo.asp"]http://www.hanlonmotorsports."]http://www.hanlonmotorsports.

The best place I have found to buy the gears is the Ford dealer. Bought one last week for about $4.00. You will also need the clip and o-ring.

If you need a CR manual I have one for free, just pay the postage.

Wayne
Reply With Quote
  #100 (permalink)  
Old 10-06-2009, 07:32 AM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Sacramento,Ca., Ca.
Cobra Make, Engine: Midstates (2001)
Posts: 1,724
Not Ranked     
Default

Way to go Ray............keep up the good work and you just might make the Auto Rama in Feb.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 03:25 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: CC Policy
Links monetized by VigLink