Lippy's ERA #797 build log

[lippy]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

That's only at full lock at parking speeds. You're never at full lock any other time, even in auto-x.

Problem is I have interference on the driver's side at full extension, but when the wheel is only turned say 1/4 of way in. Not at full lock.

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by lippy

Problem is I have interference on the driver's side at full extension, but when the wheel is only turned say 1/4 of way in. Not at full lock.

ERAChas - the difference is we are hitting the fiberglass lip on the newer bodies instead of rubbing the wheel well aluminum. My tires clear the aluminum fine.

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by lippy

Problem is I have interference on the driver's side at full extension, but when the wheel is only turned say 1/4 of way in. Not at full lock.

Understand but if you're at full extension under-weigh, you're off-roading.
Not a normal condition for Cobra driving.

[lippy]

I spoke with ERA this morning and they said this is typical and the wheel/tire should clear when the car is loaded. They also said it is extremely unlikely to encounter a situation while driving where the suspension suspends fully while the wheel is turned. I guess I'll wait until I have the engine in to see what it looks like.

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by lippy

I spoke with ERA this morning and they said this is typical and the wheel/tire should clear when the car is loaded. They also said it is extremely unlikely to encounter a situation while driving where the suspension suspends fully while the wheel is turned. I guess I'll wait until I have the engine in to see what it looks like.

I think I did pick up a little less interference when I put the engine and transmission in - not a lot but some. Also my front still sits slightly high and I haven't roughed in my alignment yet.

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by DanEC

I think I did pick up a little less interference when I put the engine and transmission in - not a lot but some. Also my front still sits slightly high and I haven't roughed in my alignment yet.

Weight, drop and settle the car to final ride height then do final alignment.

[lippy]

Managed to get the rear suspension in. I made a simple wooden platform with a hole that fit over the circular mount on the floor jack and provided quite a bit of stability. With the platform it was easy to jack the suspension subassembly into place and bolt it in. I only made one small dent in the concrete floor in the process.

We also planned where to mount the rear fuel filter, ordered some of the fuel components, and started to cut holes for the speakers. I will run a small but powerful JL Audio Class D 600/4 amp in the trunk powering 4 JL Audio 5-1/4" speakers - two behind the seats and two in the footboxes (they will *barely* fit). The amp has a neat feature where you can plug any source (e.g., iPhone, through the Lightning line-level jack) into the line in on the amp and control the volume of the amp with an accessory pot that JL Audio provides.


Untitled by Lippy111, on Flickr


Untitled by Lippy111, on Flickr


Untitled by Lippy111, on Flickr

[tkb289]

Nice progress … better a dent in the floor than in your Cobra

I like the look of the dual coil over shocks, can't wait to see what it looks like with the FIA wheels. Are you mounting the battery in the right rear fender? Will you use a bulkhead battery cut off switch or the dash mounted racing type with the red key?

[lippy]

TKB,
I'm just mounting the battery under the hood. I will have a simple disconnect just on the battery, and an interrupt switch on the MSD box.

[tkb289]

I did not know there was room under the hood, especially with a big block motor. Any photos of where it mounts? Will you be using any special heat shielding?

[lippy]

Originally Posted by tkb289

I did not know there was room under the hood, especially with a big block motor. Any photos of where it mounts? Will you be using any special heat shielding?

It mounts on a pedestal directly behind the passenger side wheel. You remove the panel behind the wheel for access. I have the optional heat vent and heat shields, and I am going to add either heat shlelding on the bottom of the pedestal, an insulated battery cover Thermo-Tec : Battery Wrap Acid Absorbing Heat Barrier, or both.

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by lippy

It mounts on a pedestal directly behind the passenger side wheel. You remove the panel behind the wheel for access. I have the optional heat vent and heat shields, and I am going to add either heat shlelding on the bottom of the pedestal, an insulated battery cover Thermo-Tec : Battery Wrap Acid Absorbing Heat Barrier, or both.

Think.
You're making a maintenance nightmare for yourself. The valve cover will have to come off for batt changing or service / testing. Trickle charging with a Battery Tender also not easy. With the shields and the other crap, access is very problematic. Header gaskets and pipe fits are harder to access. And a 36 pound Optima installed over the fender top and bending inward gets old fast. A battery cover makes it 10 x's worse.
I'm not just talking through my ass; in the 90's, when I rebuilt the car for the second time, I had all that crap.
Heat shields, batt on footbox. In six moths, I tore it all out; batt in trunk, kill switch on bulkhead, no heat shielding. Improved weight bias, EASY battery and header maintenance, longer batt life.
As I said another time, you're over-worrying this. Trying to make a C6 out of a Cobra. You wanted Brent's big power but you're weighing the car down with junk and a radio.
Cobras are elemental, they produce heat and noise. If it's the right car for you, none of those elements will deter you.

[patrickt]

My last Interstate lasted 5+ years. Here's a pic of the tray that is sits on, as snapped through the panel in the well. Changing it out is not really a big deal. Just get your car on the road -- moving your battery to the back, to the front, or to wherever, is one of those little "touch up" jobs of which you will have many.

[lippy]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

The valve cover will have to come off for batt changing or service / testing.

Why can't I just remove the wheelwell panel to change the battery? The guys at ERA told me I could.

And I want an amp and speakers. It's part of the fun for me and I don't care if it's not "elemental".

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by lippy

Why can't I just remove the wheelwell panel to change the battery? The guys at ERA told me I could.

You can. But getting to the positive terminal is next to impossible. So, if you want to charge your battery, you just clamp to the starter solenoid. No big deal. As to weight, with my battery up front my right front weight is 667 and my right rear weight is 725.

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by lippy

Why can't I just remove the wheelwell panel to change the battery? The guys at ERA told me I could.

And I want an amp and speakers. It's part of the fun for me and I don't care if it's not "elemental".

I had an early chassis car which had no removable aluminum panel. I forgot the the later chassis was improved as such. So yes you have easier battery access than I knew. Pat's picture shows me the new layout.
But all the criticisms I and several others pointed out still apply.
I get it Lippy, your $$ so build it your way. But a lot of what you're piling in there is at cross-purposes with your other priorities.
You obviously don't need my opinions or experience so I'll butt-out.

[Hotfingrs]

Having just got my ERA a couple of months ago, I wanted to make sure the battery had a good charge. Found it nearly impossible to get to the positive terminal mounted in the right front wheel well. I took battery terminal off solinoid and charged it through that line. Then and there I decided my fist mod would be to put the battery in the trunk. I figured if I ever get stopped out on the road, getting to the battery would be a nightmare. IMHO

[ERA Chas]

Very glad the kids are a positive factor in your build. Although they didn't actually 'build', my kids were a great enjoyment I got out of owning the car with them around.
And we went for some wild rides. A source of pride for me was teaching my son to drive it at age 18.

[lippy]

Seems like I've been spending a lot of time on smaller things lately. Since the last update, I've:
- Installed front and rear sway bars. I switched the direction of the bolts on the front one, btw, so the nut is on the top, like the rear
- Finished insulation on the footboxes
- Ran a front-rear conduit for amp power, speaker, and other misc electrical cables
- Mounted all hubs and checked that wheels fit on pins. They do
- Mounted the gas tank
- Managed to drill a hole in my hard fuel line (First bonehead mistake. Need advice.). I got the old line out and am in the process of installing a new stainless braided line. The one good thing about this mistake is that I'll eliminate some fittings by using one continuous line from the filter all the way to the fuel pump on the engine

Brent estimates it will take him only a few more weeks to complete the engine, so I'm trying to make sure I'm ready for that. I'm planning on using the HF 1-ton foldable engine hoist for the job, and then sell it on Craigslist. If I install from the side it seems to measure out ok. Has anyone actually used this hoist, as opposed to the slightly longer 2-ton one?

[patrickt]