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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-10-2013, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by kevins2 View Post
Looks awesome and you're making great progress. The rivited hood scoop looks good on black.

Kevin
Thanks! It looks like black sometimes but it's a dark non-metallic blue (Ferrari Blu Pozzi).
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Old 11-10-2013, 01:57 PM
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Thanks! It looks like black sometimes but it's a dark non-metallic blue (Ferrari Blu Pozzi).
Now that you mention it, I think you've explained that before . Still goes - the rivited hood scoop looks great on the dark color...
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Old 11-11-2013, 10:36 AM
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I'm really happy with the look of the car and options I chose. The only thing I might've done differently is Smith's instruments.
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Old 11-11-2013, 05:16 PM
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Lippy - your car is looking great. You have done a great job in getting it together. I installed the front carpet and those aluminum threshold strips this weekend on mine and that aluminum is a bear since it pretty much needs to be bent in 3 dimensions to fit. I don't think mine came out as nice as yours appears in the pictures.

Did you roll the carpet around the front of the transmission tunnel per the instructions? If so, any problems getting the tunnel to fit all the way down over the footbox sides with the extra material?

Looking forward to the engine install.
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Old 11-11-2013, 05:52 PM
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Did you roll the carpet around the front of the transmission tunnel per the instructions? If so, any problems getting the tunnel to fit all the way down over the footbox sides with the extra material?
Dan, that was a b*tch, but I did it. All of the carpet went in very easily, except the curved portion behind the seats on the front of the rear footwells (I had to do one side over and it still isn't absolutely perfect, but it is good), and the front of the tunnel. On the tunnel, there were too many compound curves so I had to make one strategic cut and it turned out nice. Make sure you follow their directions exactly and work from the top down, and let the glue on the top portion dry before doing the sides.
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Old 11-11-2013, 06:26 PM
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Hi Dan,

Since I just recently did all that stuff as well I'll add my two cents. Agree with Lippy regarding the tunnel carpet - do it in sections just as outlined in the manual. I made extensive use of wax paper to keep the carpet from sticking until I was ready. I was able to position the carpet exactly where I wanted it in that way. With the carpet wrapped around the front edge of the tunnel, it does require a bit of 'persuasion' to get it in place. Grab the back of the tunnel and wiggle it up and down and side to side a bit as you push the front forward and down to get it to go into place.

As Lippy described, the carpet is difficult to get over the curved areas on the bulkhead. Although it isn't an area that shows, I spent the time to get it as good as I could. I had two small wrinkles that just wouldn't come out so I took a pair of scissors and trimmed the nap of the carpet down and the wrinkle essentially disappeared. Again, not an area that can be seen once the seat went in but I wasn't sure of that at the time.

Kevin
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Old 11-12-2013, 05:45 AM
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Thanks guys - the reason I asked is because my tunnel is already a pretty snug fit when installed over the edge of the footboxes. I've trimmed all the insulation and dampproofing out of the way but still tight. If it just won't go I may have to form a carpet overlap at the front and fold the carpet back on itself to give a finished appearance. I plan to do the rear bulkhead in all vinyl per the street cars so than will be a real challenge. I'll have to keep the heat gun handy.

Those aluminum thresholds are the only thing I'm kind of disappointed in so far - couldn't get them to fit very tight to the fiberglass in some of the curved areas.

Dan
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Old 11-12-2013, 06:25 AM
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Hi Dan,

I started my door sills on my own and had the same problem. I wasn't happy with the fit so before I drilled any more holes I removed it, filled the hole with JB Weld and waited for my son to come home to help. Much easier with two people. Also, the manual states "the top edge of the sill should extend about 2 1/2" past the center of the latch." That is a mistake. I spoke with Jack at ERA because that just didn't seem right to me and he confirmed that the sill should start as high as it can - right up where the door edge curves downward.

So, if you're not happy with them they can be removed and reshaped if there are no kinks. If you decide to do that, I really recommend a helper to hold the strip tightly in place and push it against the curve while you drill the holes and put screws in one at a time.

Kevin
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Old 11-12-2013, 07:23 AM
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Hi Dan,

I started my door sills on my own and had the same problem. I wasn't happy with the fit so before I drilled any more holes I removed it, filled the hole with JB Weld and waited for my son to come home to help. Much easier with two people. Also, the manual states "the top edge of the sill should extend about 2 1/2" past the center of the latch." That is a mistake. I spoke with Jack at ERA because that just didn't seem right to me and he confirmed that the sill should start as high as it can - right up where the door edge curves downward.

So, if you're not happy with them they can be removed and reshaped if there are no kinks. If you decide to do that, I really recommend a helper to hold the strip tightly in place and push it against the curve while you drill the holes and put screws in one at a time.

Kevin
Yes, an extra pair of hands might have helped but with the body curving this way and that, the moldings pretty much need to be bent in at least two planes. I covered it in tape and worked on the outside edge with a rubber mallet on the car to try and sstretch it (or beat it into submission) but that didn't help much. finally installed an extra screw on both sides at a particularly troublesome area on the rear curve. I did disregard the 2 1/2" and started up as high as I could. I also started at the sill and screwed them down and then worked both ends up the sides - which is contrary to the manual - don't know if that would have made any difference.

Dan
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Old 11-12-2013, 10:03 AM
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Dan,
If you are not satisfied with the door sills, get another set from ERA and try again. Small potatoes, and they'll turn out better the second time around.
-Jeff
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Old 11-12-2013, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by lippy View Post
Dan,
If you are not satisfied with the door sills, get another set from ERA and try again. Small potatoes, and they'll turn out better the second time around.
-Jeff
Lippy - that is definately on the option list. But first I will have to come up with a better approach. I spent nearly the whole day on them yesterday so the effort was there. My door sills were probably not trimmed all the way back like they should have been and I didn't try to correct during the bodywork phase that thinking it wouldn't matter. So my carpet actually comes up and wraps over the top and then the sill sits down on top of the carpet which holds it up and keeps it from sitting tight to the fiberglass - primarily in the front and rear curves. It doesn't all fit exactly as Bob drew it in the manual illustration.

Dan
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Old 11-12-2013, 12:16 PM
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Dan,
I glued the carpet vertically up to the door sill and trimmed it around the curve. The aluminum trip pieces have lips that overlap the carpet very neatly, just as Bob drew in the manual. I'm not sure it will work the same way if the carpet wraps over the top. Let me know if you need a closer photo.
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Old 11-12-2013, 12:24 PM
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Dan,

I did the same with the carpet - cut it flush with the door sills. Also, start at the top end, not in the middle (and tape the other end so it doesn't scratch anything). Another thing that helped is that you can actually bend them a bit more than the actual curve. That way, you won't be wrestling as much trying to get them to lay against the fiberglass in the middle of the curves. With them bent slightly more than the curve and a second person pushing them into the curved area (pushing back toward the direction you've already screwed down) and holding them tight, you can get a nice fit.

I think you have my phone number from a previous PM, so feel free to call if you'd like to discuss in more detail.

Kevin
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Old 11-12-2013, 06:14 PM
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Thanks guys.
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Old 11-12-2013, 11:00 PM
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lippy,

Tremendous progress, you have made some great choices. Brent's motor will look mighty good in it's new home. Bet you can't wait to start it up
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Old 12-05-2013, 11:32 AM
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Lippy - I think you were looking for your engine right after Thanksgiving. Any progress or arrivals to report?
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Old 12-05-2013, 11:34 AM
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Dan,

We had some rocker arm issues on the dyno, so we upgraded a few parts and we're gonna give her another floggin'.
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Old 12-05-2013, 11:36 AM
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You know a video of the dyno might be fun. Doesn't have to be high def, just a regular vid.
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Old 12-05-2013, 11:41 AM
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Here's one I took while we were doing a break-in.

A170F723-37AE-472D-9AAA-E8471037CBFB-18215-000012E0F9F5CB28_zpseff2980f.mp4 Video by shellvalleyowner | Photobucket

And here's a pull from outside.....pulling to 6800. I take videos outside so customers can see that there's no smoke out the exhaust at partial or WOT. I do one from the inside too to show that there's nothing coming from the breathers.

DBC758E5-DB19-401E-A082-B2F34F65E541-18215-000012E1275C13FB_zpsd96e0672.mp4 Video by shellvalleyowner | Photobucket
ACHiPo likes this.
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Old 12-05-2013, 11:44 AM
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I like that second one.
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