Contemporary Cobra Watts Linkage - Page 5

cobrarkc · #1 (**permalink**) 08-18-2010, 06:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PDUB

Thanks for the info Daze... the newer stub axle looks pretty whimpy

! Is it up to high HP applications? Looks like they changed the splines on it... or am I missing something? I'll send a PM for more info. Thanks again.

You can still use the old stub axle by using a combiation u-joint. 1410 to 1350 and don't worry about the smaller 1350 u-joint they can handle up to 1000hp. This is where i got mine, even though they don't have it listed, ask them they have them.
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c130...al_joints.html
Most u-joint places can get them for you.

Dazecars · #2 (**permalink**) 08-18-2010, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PDUB

Thanks for the info Daze... the newer stub axle looks pretty whimpy

! Is it up to high HP applications? Looks like they changed the splines on it... or am I missing something? I'll send a PM for more info. Thanks again.

If you look at the two stub axles, old and new, the splined sections are about the same diameter, and that is where the torque is transferred to the wheel flange. With that in mind the newer stub axles have more splines which should make them stronger than the older Jag stubs.... make sense??

mickmate · #3 (**permalink**) 08-15-2010, 07:45 PM

I got a piece of billet a tapered reamer and a rotary table for the milling machine to start making the conical shape of the watts brackets to fit Jag hubs. Then I went back in the thread and found the simple and effective solution that is perfectly suited to my cutting table. The hubs you show are a lot more friendly to mount brackets to but I wouldn't change to inboard brakes if there was a choice. I have found it easier to drop the whole rear end to service Jag brakes, and that was when it was fitted in a Jag. Some good ideas and discussion keeps us all thinking though.

Dazecars · #4 (**permalink**) 08-16-2010, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mickmate

The hubs you show are a lot more friendly to mount brackets to but I wouldn't change to inboard brakes if there was a choice. I have found it easier to drop the whole rear end to service Jag brakes, and that was when it was fitted in a Jag. Some good ideas and discussion keeps us all thinking though.

I am not doing a very good job of communicating my idea

Yes the hubs I pictured are normally used to convert the brakes from in board to outboard, but my thought is keep the inboard discs. You have to run a rotors thick spacer between the diff and the half shaft any way so put the rotors there and run the inboard discs as normal. My thought was just to use the newer hubs for the sole purpose of having OEM mounting locations on the hub that were designed from the factory to handle that kind of pressure. mickmate, like I said before, I think your design is fantastic and the 3/8" hub material should be strong enough, I just like to think outside of the box and look at other options so I figured I would bring it up to see what people thought.

mickmate · #5 (**permalink**) 08-16-2010, 08:53 PM

I understand what you're suggesting and it would be a good use of existing bracketry. First Cobras used inboard discs but they were moved outboard due to overheating and poor serviceability.

Dazecars · #6 (**permalink**) 08-16-2010, 09:03 PM

I am a dork, I read through what you had written and I realized you were saying, if you had outboard disc hubs you would run outboard discs. Sorry Do you have an ETA or idea of $$ when you will be ready to sell

mickmate · #7 (**permalink**) 08-17-2010, 05:37 AM

I think one of our CCX guys is putting that on his car now with XJ40 parts. After the prototype worked so well I'm working on another batch and will have prices within a couple of weeks.

Ralphy · #8 (**permalink**) 08-22-2010, 10:22 PM

Nick,

Looking at one of your pics, it seems this setup would be worthless without the watts? Those two horizontal links would be all over the place and sheer the bolts! Anyhow, would you think the lowers would work just as well with a tube and heim joints? Now one step further, could it work with one shock up front only?

What I do see in your photo is a setup that allows for the watts location to not be as critical as with a one piece lower, no?

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/s...0/ppuser/10964

Ralphy

mickmate · #9 (**permalink**) 08-23-2010, 09:43 PM

I'm a Mech and Prod Engineer but I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn last night. You guys have a good eye for what will and won't work and how to put it together, you're practical engineers. The key to comparing the parts you're looking at is CSA (cross sectional area) of the shaft that is acting in shear. If you have a lot more splines even if they aren't as deep if the CSA is greater on the part that is in shear it will obviously be a lot stronger. The watts is great in this application and I think very necessary. One of the high HP cars a customer of mine has is eating holes right through the rear inner fender with the flex and play of lower control arms allowing tires to touch it.

PDUB · #10 (**permalink**) 08-24-2010, 01:36 AM

Daze, got any pics with the calipers in place? I'm curious about picking up the mounting points for a Watts link... top and side views.

PDUB · #11 (**permalink**) 08-24-2010, 01:40 AM

Nick, are those caliper mounting points on the hub strong enough to hold a bracket for the Watts link? Not sure if there is room for one, but...

Dazecars · #12 (**permalink**) 08-27-2010, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PDUB

Daze, got any pics with the calipers in place? I'm curious about picking up the mounting points for a Watts link... top and side views.

Sorry it has taken me a few days to get back to you, I have been very busy. I don't have any pictures, but I can take some if you can weight tell next week.

PDUB · #13 (**permalink**) 08-28-2010, 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dazecars

Sorry it has taken me a few days to get back to you, I have been very busy. I don't have any pictures, but I can take some if you can weight tell next week.

No prob.

Dazecars · #14 (**permalink**) 09-01-2010, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PDUB

Daze, got any pics with the calipers in place? I'm curious about picking up the mounting points for a Watts link... top and side views.

well here it is, better late than never.

The caliper bolts go threw the hub and screw in to the caliper. If I was doing it I would use the upper caliper mount. The ABS sensor hole on the top, and the tab, opposite the caliper (pointed an arrow to) this tab is roughly a mirror image of the top caliper tab, is around 1" think and could easily be drilled and taped to achieve a third mounting point.

mickmate · #15 (**permalink**) 08-24-2010, 05:38 AM

You see the one in the picture has only 2 of 5/16" bolts holding it on. It does however hold it into a full width machined slot in the aluminum. I believe they are plenty strong enough. There is more force from braking than accelerating.

PDUB · #16 (**permalink**) 08-27-2010, 12:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mickmate

You see the one in the picture has only 2 of 5/16" bolts holding it on. It does however hold it into a full width machined slot in the aluminum. I believe they are plenty strong enough. There is more force from braking than accelerating.

Then that might be the hot ticket for outboard brakes with a Watts link... someone needs to go into design mode

.

mickmate · #17 (**permalink**) 08-27-2010, 09:23 PM

Already designed, made, installed and working. Ready for the next application, it should be pretty easy to adapt.

Dazecars · #18 (**permalink**) 08-27-2010, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mickmate

Already designed, made, installed and working. Ready for the next application, it should be pretty easy to adapt.

So when will you have them ready to sell and how much $$$ do you think the kit will cost?? All I really need is the hub mount as mine os for a different application.

PDUB · #19 (**permalink**) 08-28-2010, 10:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PDUB

Then that might be the hot ticket for outboard brakes with a Watts link... someone needs to go into design mode

.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mickmate

Already designed, made, installed and working. Ready for the next application, it should be pretty easy to adapt.

Are you refereing to the outboard setup or what you have pictured above?

Eljaro · #20 (**permalink**) 08-29-2010, 03:40 AM

I have my rear suspension with watts linkage now for over 10 years and have really abused it and it has never failed me.
It is a George Petrus product, both the arm and the hub with the watts linkage and it has outboard brakes.My Contemporary came already with the watts linkage support welded on the frame. In my gallery you will see the setup.
Check http://www.cobraracing.com/index.html for the different rear suspension parts for original jaguar IRS.
It is also very important that when you put your rear suspension back together that you check the rear wheel camber, which should ideally be -1%. To do that I use a digital level and two self made rigs and do it on the lift , even if the car is not level.
I'll be glad to help anyone out on how to do this.