Build thread - Resurrection of an old Contemporary

[ZOERA-SC7XX]

Be aware that any Jag brake parts (calipers & blocks) require a bubble flair. Std steel brake lines are more than adequate, cheap and are very easy to bend and flair. I'm not aware of the degree of difficulty with stainless lines, but they may be less forgiving (costly) if screwed up. Good luck.

[767Jockey]

I get to play all day tomorrow with brake line bends and flares. I'm going to practice a bunch on small pieces before I attempt the real thing. I bought a bubble flare kit....the problem is I have no idea what a good bubble flare looks like!

I spent much of today on the phone tracking down engine blocks. I think I am going to end up with a cast iron Genesis block with billet caps. There are no Pond cast iron blocks to be found, and I just can't squeeze the money out for aluminum, I'd like to but I'm so far over on money with this car I don't even want to know what the numbers are.

The iron block FE with aluminum heads and intake is really close to the weight of the iron headed Cleveland that came out of the car, so I should be fine. Couple in the fact that I am moving the batteries back to the position behind the passenger seat, the weight and distribution should be just fine. I got the front sway bar installed today, but I'm still waiting for the radius rods to finish the rear sway bar installation. Once that's in I can toss the rear shocks back into the car, and the rear suspension will be complete, along with the front.

Once the brake and fuel lines are all bent up and installed it's time to start the electrical install on the body, this should be interesting. I'm a zero electrically, hopefully the crew at Ron Francis comes through and walks me through the trouble spots. I don't expect it to be too difficult, I expect the problems will arise on the oddball Cobra specific stuff like the indicator lights in the panel, the VW turn signal switch, the wiper switch and the dash indicator light dimmer. The rest of the car is about as straightforward electrically as it gets. My main goal is to get a bunch of REALLY good grounding points chosen. With good grounds the majority of problems in these 'glass bodied cars are eliminated. By the way does anyone have a source for good quality crimp on terminals WITHOUT the plastic on the crimped ends? I hate the way these things look, I want to use terminals that have no brightly colored plastic on them. I want to buy a bunch of heat shrink tubing, and put about 3/4 inch on the end of each crimp on terminal for insulation. I need to find the terminals and a place to buy the heat shrink tubing. Anyone have any ideas? That's all for now. Damn, it's cold out tonight, so the garage is like a meat locker.

[elmariachi]

Originally Posted by 767Jockey

By the way does anyone have a source for good quality crimp on terminals WITHOUT the plastic on the crimped ends? I hate the way these things look, I want to use terminals that have no brightly colored plastic on them.

I have found you can just twist those red/blue/yellow covers off with a pair of side-cutters. I then use them and cover with shrink-tube, works and looks great. Sorry to hear about your engine. I too had to make a "plan change" on finishing up my engine just yesterday as a result of not being on the same page with my builder. Nothing as catastrophic as your ordeal, but a little heartburn nonetheless. Good luck with it.

[767Jockey]

Originally Posted by elmariachi

I have found you can just twist those red/blue/yellow covers off with a pair of side-cutters. I then use them and cover with shrink-tube, works and looks great. Sorry to hear about your engine. I too had to make a "plan change" on finishing up my engine just yesterday as a result of not being on the same page with my builder. Nothing as catastrophic as your ordeal, but a little heartburn nonetheless. Good luck with it.

Hey, good idea with the nylon covers, I'll give it a shot. You have engine grief too, huh? Don't let it get you sidetracked, plow ahead and get that car done!