Progress on #782

[mickmate]

It does look fantastic, keep the ratchets righty tighty!

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by mickmate

It does look fantastic, keep the ratchets righty tighty!

Thanks Nick - yes, righty tighty is much better than lefty loosey.

Dan

[cscobra]

Jim Holden's advice is sound--make sure you have the side curtains mounted and that you adjust the windshield angle to them. And, take your time fitting the top (I spent several days on it, but it was time well spent). Practice on the tonneau cover by fitting it first before moving on to the top. Moss Motors sells a terrific tool which easily punches out the five holes (one large center hole, four angled slots) needed to fit the Lift-the-Dot fasteners used with the tonneau cover and the top.

The time it takes will be worthwhile--the top seals better than I expected (even better than either of my MGs and many other British cars I've driven or ridden in that use this design). Most importantly, though, it turned out not to be the "noisy rattletrap" that Peter predicted it would be.

By the way, I like your grille splitter and I'm glad you have one, too. You and I may well be the only ones left who are using it. i think it makes the entire front end appearance complete.

I found that the top and the side curtain bags fit well on the upper trunk shelf. I put the bag for the tonneau cover on the left side of the trunk (the fuel filler pipe intrudes on the right) with a "Continental Kit" (tire inflator and sealant, if needed--I bought mine online at Tire Rack) in its plastic case underneath the cover bag. The top bows I have laying out of the way on the trunk floor--I had them powdercoated black after fitting the top, but I need a bag for them, too (similar to what early MGBs used with their "Erector Set" tops).

Just some ideas--hope some will prove useful.

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by cscobra

Jim Holden's advice is sound--make sure you have the side curtains mounted and that you adjust the windshield angle to them. And, take your time fitting the top (I spent several days on it, but it was time well spent). Practice on the tonneau cover by fitting it first before moving on to the top. Moss Motors sells a terrific tool which easily punches out the five holes (one large center hole, four angled slots) needed to fit the Lift-the-Dot fasteners used with the tonneau cover and the top.

The time it takes will be worthwhile--the top seals better than I expected (even better than either of my MGs and many other British cars I've driven or ridden in that use this design). Most importantly, though, it turned out not to be the "noisy rattletrap" that Peter predicted it would be.

By the way, I like your grille splitter and I'm glad you have one, too. You and I may well be the only ones left who are using it. i think it makes the entire front end appearance complete.

I found that the top and the side curtain bags fit well on the upper trunk shelf. I put the bag for the tonneau cover on the left side of the trunk (the fuel filler pipe intrudes on the right) with a "Continental Kit" (tire inflator and sealant, if needed--I bought mine online at Tire Rack) in its plastic case underneath the cover bag. The top bows I have laying out of the way on the trunk floor--I had them powdercoated black after fitting the top, but I need a bag for them, too (similar to what early MGBs used with their "Erector Set" tops).

Just some ideas--hope some will prove useful.

Thanks for the tips (also from Jim). The top fitting may be a winter project. I don't have a tonneau at this time but I'm beginning to think about one.

Dan

[kevins2]

Originally Posted by DanEC

The top fitting may be a winter project. I don't have a tonneau at this time but I'm beginning to think about one.

Dan

Hi Dan,

You'll probably see this warning in ERA's instructions but thought I'd point it out since you mentioned fitting the top in the winter:

"Do not try to fit a cold top! Always work at room temperature or above."

I can imagine spending a lot of time getting a nice tight fitting top and then when warm weather comes along, noticing it's kind of saggy looking...

Kevin

[DanEC]

Kevin,

I thought that remark was mostly about trying to erect and snap down a fitted top in cold weather but I could be wrong. I guess the same would apply to fitting a new top. I think I will get the bows powder coated so maybe that and the rest of the assembly will keep me occupied for the winter.

thanks

Dan

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by DanEC

I thought that remark was mostly about trying to erect and snap down a fitted top in cold weather but I could be wrong. I guess the same would apply to fitting a new top.

Four or five years ago, I decided to put my top on and go for a ride when the temperature was, maybe, in the low 50's -- I guess the car and the top could have still been in the high 40's from the overnight. Now, on a warm summer day, my top fits pretty well, as Jack at ERA fitted it for me (see this tweak thread: Soft Top - ISO the Perfect Fit, or Just a Decent One... ). I still remember that day -- it took me about 20 minutes to get all the lift-a-dots fastened in the cold, maybe more, and my thumb tips throbbed for days. A cold day, and a nicely fitted top, do not go together well. Yes, there is a technique with the lift-a-dots to get them to go over the little spikes easier, but your fingers soon go numb, regardless. Oh well, it is what it is.

[kevins2]

The word "work" made me think it was more than just putting the top up. Jack at ERA would be the expert to ask about any potential problems with fitting it in cold weather. Powder coating the bows sounds like a good idea to make them last. I haven't purchased a top yet. My brother will be going to look at a used one down in the Atlanta area. It needs repair so not sure I'll go that way.

Kevin

[kevins2]

The real question is whether it is better to fit the top for the first time (do the stretching, gluing, etc.) in cooler weather or warmer. I would think it would be best to fit the top in warm weather based on ERA's statement. It may actually be a trade-off. If fitted in hot weather, it might not stretch enough to go on in the cold (or at least be very difficult). If fitted in cold weather, it might be saggy in hot weather.

Kevin

[DonC]

Don't know about the current crop of cars but my soft top bows have a threaded portion on the end that fits into the ferules behind the door that allow for about 1/2 inch of travel. That could take up any slack in a "slightly" loosely fitting top.
DonC

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by DonC

Don't know about the current crop of cars but my soft top bows have a threaded portion on the end that fits into the ferules behind the door that allow for about 1/2 inch of travel. That could take up any slack in a "slightly" loosely fitting top.
DonC

Yep, good point. That would be these:

[1985 CCX]

Coming along great!
Very nice.............

[kevins2]

Ah, that makes sense. Good to know, thanks.

Kevin

[DanEC]

I think cold, stiff convertible top material does not adapt well to either first fitting or rountine erection. I can get my garage up to about 65, maybe 70 in the winter but that probably is marginal for the first fitting.

Thanks

[ERA Chas]

Place it on the floor in the sunniest room in your home in direct sunlight. OR put it in your street car parked in bright sunlight a few hours-even with temps in 40's. I've dried small painted parts in the car which easily gets the surfaces up to 80's.
Keep a heat gun (not hair dryer) handy while doing the install and play it on stressed areas.

[patrickt]

Dan, what does a convertible top installation shop estimate their cost would be? Personally, I'd rather pull the transmission and rebuild it on the kitchen table rather than have to fit the top.

[kevins2]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Dan, what does a convertible top installation shop estimate their cost would be? Personally, I'd rather pull the transmission and rebuild it on the kitchen table rather than have to fit the top.

Something to be said for that. I fitted my tonneau cover and it did take a lot of patience - came out nice, though. And, just to make it harder, I lined the inside of it with felt where it will touch the paint. The vinyl, particularly corners where it is folded and stitched, felt a bit harsh so worth the extra work. I imagine the top will be more difficult to fit. If I recall, ERA wanted $800 to fit it to the car.

Kevin

[patrickt]

Am I reading this right? http://www.erareplicas.com/427/427options.pdf ERA wants almost ten grand for a fitted soft top now?

[DonC]

They may be getting their parts from Ferrari now hence the cost );-)

DonC

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Dan, what does a convertible top installation shop estimate their cost would be? Personally, I'd rather pull the transmission and rebuild it on the kitchen table rather than have to fit the top.

Patrick - I'm not sure. I'm kind of a do it yourself-type guy. Try anything once unless the cost of specialized tools is just plain prohibitive. I've rebuilt seats and re-upholstered them. I hate to take a car to anyone and leave it - you never know what will happen to it. Also, custom upholstery work in my neck of the woods has gotten ridiculous. In my car club there are many stories in recent years of cars sitting untouched at an upholstery shop for 6, 8, 10 months before they get to the work. They all seem to be like this around here - custom work is set aside while they do profitable small repairs on new and used cars for dealers. I know of one guy who left his car at a paint and body shop for about 4 years. The guy worked on it off and on but I would drive by and see it sitting outside in the weather. Before he got it back rust started blooming out again and they had to strip the car back down and start over. Then he noticed that nice original parts on the car seemed to be deteriorating - he suspected a worker was stripping parts off the car and Ebay'ing them and replacing them with junk parts from the salvage yard.

I will tackle the top myself. And I promise I'll read ERA's instructions.

Dan