Progress on #782

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by KevinW

suggest: very roughly cut leaving plenty of extra 'overhang;
then try using your wife's hairdryer to preheat the material.
When its nice and warm, then lay it on the area with maximum curvature, and apply more heat - it will stretch. Easier with 1 or 2 extra pair of hands to hold in place. Once you have made it stretch a bit, remove, apply adhesive, apply more heat on non-sticky side, then place on point of maximum curvature. Then, using extra hands, pull gently whilst applying heat from hair dryer. You will almost certainly have to lift and re-0stick it in several places so avoid an instant contact adhesive - the spray on stuff is more forgiving. Once happy, leave for a few weeks. The spray on stuff will probably start to lift, but by then the vynil will have stretched to the desired shape, so impact/contact adhesive can be used. HTH.

That is pretty much what I have in mind. I've had good luck applying the adhesive to the entire piece of vinyl but only to the starting point on the base surface. Get it started and stretched out smooth and then apply some more contact cement to the base surface and smooth a little more vinyl down - keep working it down in incremental sections. The center section came out really well. There are a few rivets reflecting through it and some of the panel joints but the vinyl is down nice, tight and smooth. I'm using the high temperature vinyl top contact adhesive. It sets up like epoxy in a day or two.

On the wheel well bulges - like you suggested, I was going to coat just the center of the bulge first and get the vinyl positioned and smoothed out on it. It sounds like you are suggesting to apply the vinyl over the hump dry first and try to pre-stretch it with a hair dryer (or my heat gun). That sounds like a good idea to try. After the top of the buldge is adhered solidly I was then going to apply a little more contact cement and use a heat gun a little to help work the vinyl down to the start of the buldge and then more cement and work the sides out to the edge. I've found a stiff plastic bondo spreader and a wall paper seam roller to work pretty well for smoothing and getting the vinyl down tight.

My big headache is trying to cut a nice straight edge where the lap will be in the open in the center area. Box cutter, snap-off blades seem to dull pretty quick and I have to break off section after section trying to keep a sharp edge. I may give a single edge razor blade a try.

I may also try to work ERAChas' slip sheet approach into this also with some wax paper on the vinyl. It will be after the holidays before I can tackle the rest of it.

Thanks

[ERA Chas]

A scalpel, found at surgical supply or model and hobby outlets is the BEST cutting tool-period. Get extra blades and change frequently.
I mentioned the roller in that tutorial I wrote and it's invaluable. Get a 6" wide framer's roller used for adhering posters onto adhesive mounting board.
I'm not so sure about heating the vinyl-I think it contracts again after it is cool. Even when adhered down with contact cement.

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

A scalpel, found at surgical supply or model and hobby outlets is the BEST cutting tool-period. Get extra blades and change frequently.
I mentioned the roller in that tutorial I wrote and it's invaluable. Get a 6" wide framer's roller used for adhering posters onto adhesive mounting board.
I'm not so sure about heating the vinyl-I think it contracts again after it is cool. Even when adhered down with contact cement.

I have some of those X-acto knives (I believe that is correct) from my model building days. I need to pick up some new blades for it down at Hobby Lobby. I don't know on the heat. I know professional seat upholsters use a lot of heat or steam in final fitting of seat covers but I'm not sure if it actually draws and shrinks up the loose areas of the vinyl or just makes it easier to work over the foam and make it all smooth out and fit better.

Thanks

[lippy]

For me, those wheel well bulges, and the front of the tunnel, were the most difficult areas. I got them close, very close, but not perfect.

From my experience, for the wheel bulges:

(1) fit first without any contact cement, then apply the contact cement to both sides and let it set up for a good 15-20m. Start at the inside, a bit at a time, and work toward the outside. I used a roller, and also a piece of plastic angle for the corners to help push the carpet down.
(2) I tried a hairdryer to heat up and stretch the carpet. It did me no good. I also added a slit over one of the bulges, and that was a mistake. In the end, I purchased an extra piece of carpet and reapplied on the driver side.
(3) I used a plain utility knife, but with good US-made blades, replaced often. It cuts through the carpet like butter.

Just take your time and work it carefully. You will figure it out. If something doesn't turn out right, call ERA and buy another carpet segment, and reapply.

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by lippy

For me, those wheel well bulges, and the front of the tunnel, were the most difficult areas. I got them close, very close, but not perfect.

From my experience, for the wheel bulges:

(1) fit first without any contact cement, then apply the contact cement to both sides and let it set up for a good 15-20m. Start at the inside, a bit at a time, and work toward the outside. I used a roller, and also a piece of plastic angle for the corners to help push the carpet down.
(2) I tried a hairdryer to heat up and stretch the carpet. It did me no good. I also added a slit over one of the bulges, and that was a mistake. In the end, I purchased an extra piece of carpet and reapplied on the driver side.
(3) I used a plain utility knife, but with good US-made blades, replaced often. It cuts through the carpet like butter.

Just take your time and work it carefully. You will figure it out. If something doesn't turn out right, call ERA and buy another carpet segment, and reapply.

Lippy - good tips but I'm covering my rear area with vinyl which is even more unforgiving than carpet on less than flat surfaces. 427Street (Frank) is responsible for planting this seed in my mind to somewhat match original street cars. Funny - he started all of this in a thread last winter and I haven't heard from him since on here as to how his install of vinyl went.

[KevinW]

i would be very careful with a heat gun - they can be brutal if used thoughtlessly, particularly on very thin vynil. Ladies hair dryers are far more gentle, and allow you to control a more gentle flow of heat into the vynil, although this process does take a few more minutes to affect.

there is an alternative to your edging issues, which would give you a whole load of extra work.....: you could take a mould off part of your cockpit, make a grp skin and trim that. This allows you to fold over all the exposed edges. I did this on the inner door skin, and the inner wheel arches (which on the crendon are a little less authentic, but rather easier to trim). Does take a bit of time to do though

crendon door skin test fit - Cobra Club Gallery

[tboneheller]

After a few years, the vinyl on my rear panels shrank & turned stiff. The carpeted parts still look new.

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by tboneheller

After a few years, the vinyl on my rear panels shrank & turned stiff. The carpeted parts still look new.

That's pretty surprising. High grade automotive vinyl shouldn't do that after a few years - especially in something that isn't outside 24-7.

[JBCOBRA]

Looks Great!

[lippy]

Looks excellent. Is the ride height as adjusted from ERA, or did you lower it further. Seems just right.

[ERA Chas]

Shaping up Dan-but you can go lower without harm if you choose.
No dead-cat space:

[DanEC]

Lippy - right now it's as ERA adjusted the shocks. If I remember correctly the front is very slightly below the ERA spec of 5-1/4 inch and the rear is about 5-1/2. I think the front is probably a little low per ERA because of my iron heads - versus the more common aluminum head engines that most now use.

ERAChas - I like that photo - is that your car? I think it must be from the color. I think mine needs to go a little lower in the rear and I will probably drop it a little. I'm a little hesitant to drop the front yet until I get a few miles on it. I think I remember you said you had yours set at 4-7/8 inch front and rear.

Thanks

[lippy]

Chas, how low did you set that ride height, and how long did you wait to do it? Looks great.

[TopNeoprene]

looks cool

[racco]

Congrats looks great, street version looks best in my opinion

[DanEC]

Thanks - now for my one step back. Unfortunately my transmission tail housing leak is from the gasket and my initial euphoria after sealing the tail housing bolts with sealer has turned out to be unwarranted. So, I'm working on draining the transmission (again) and pulling the tail housing to address the gasket. Oh well.

[KevinW]

Bummer - good luck with the seal.
Love the look of your car. Those latest pics are great.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by DanEC

Thanks - now for my one step back. Unfortunately my transmission tail housing leak is from the gasket and my initial euphoria after sealing the tail housing bolts with sealer has turned out to be unwarranted. So, I'm working on draining the transmission (again) and pulling the tail housing to address the gasket. Oh well.

It never ends. In the meantime, I'm going to get you a belated Christmas present.

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by patrickt

It never ends. In the meantime, I'm going to get you a belated Christmas present.

How thoughtfull - I may need to actually look that up at my nearest Barnes and Nobel store. Unfortunately my voltage regulator fuse did test OK for continuity so I guess I'm on to the parallel resistor circuit. Strange though - the manual shows a 10 amp fuse there and ERA sent mine with a 15 amp fuse in place. I'm afraid to ask - probably will be over my head. First the transmission.

Dan

[DanEC]

Anyone notice our windshield wipers park to the opposite side of the originals? I guess due to mounting the motor on the right side versus the left side.