Goodbye Kansas

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by ERA2076

Cool -
x

Autometer used to (and may still) make a gauge that comes with AN line and runs from the fuel source to a supplied diaphragm (which stays underhood) then out of that to the gauge-the last leg runs A/F. Safe and accurate; no bouncy needle.
I had it years ago.
Oh and to further break your bullets; how about a plumbed fire system??- I'm sure you have one on the drawing board.

[ERA2076]

I've spent some time looking, but am nowhere near purchasing. It seems we continue to take apart rather than actually assembling anything.

It took me three years to build my 4 cyl Wrangler

Simplest damn thing ever -

chr

[ERA2076]

I went with a Mallory pressure isolator.

chr

[ERA Chas]

They don't seem 'correct'....

[ERA2076]

I'm going to paint them flat black. You think that will help?

Your paint is the trick - x

chr

[ERA2076]

[ERA2076]

Bob P - Thank you for the drawing.

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by ERA2076

Oh man - ERAChase is going to give you an atta-boy for that.

[ERA Chas]

Atta - boy!!
Do the dash back too if you still can. Wipe your wires with thinner-you may need to see wire colors and stripes.
Your droplight will love you.

[ERA2076]

ERA is sending out a new blank dash we will for sure paint it. I did not paint any exposed wires, just loom. Pictures are with flash -

Great idea -

x-chr

[mrmustang]

I like it


Bill S.

[ERA Chas]

Cliff-4 lugs bolts gonna be OK with that much tire contact?
-and the hub pic above it shows 5.

[ERA2076]

nah - I don't have the wheels yet. I purchased some steel wheels from Sumitt for fitting.

Minilite stocks a 10" 5 x 4.75 X 4.75 BS for GM applications. We have been working around that and it looks pretty good, but may need to space some. We are going to refit the rear to check shock length so we will mount a tire and mockup wheel location with the steelies while we are in there.

Identifying and fitting calipers has been a project to itself and we have struggled to get wheel dimensions from Minlite as they are not published.

There is a risk the parts will not allow the wheel to be properly placed for wheel to caliper clearance and tire to body clearance. I found a dimensional work sheet at Panasport last night so I will print, fill out, and send to Minlite. I intend to talk to Panasport also.

Still have my eyes on a set of magnesium copies once we get it all fit and tested.

Getting the caliper mounted is a big step forward.


chr

[ERA Chas]

Minilites rule-mag Minilites kick ass!

[ERA2076]

They are beautiful - not like you just go to Tire Rack and order up a set.

[ERA2076]

We want to stiffen the steering linkage so we opted to go with some Howe Racing stuff and have been beating around how to attach.



While browsing around here for a solution to some other problem, I came across an ERA owner who added a cross brace so he could add down tubes.

We got hold of some .062 rec tubing and mocked it up. We are going to weld a plate between the firewall tube and the new tube and then mount the steering column to that. We are going to use 3/4 x .120 DOM tube for the steering shaft to the rack.

There is 8" of collapse/extension in the column so I should be able to put the wheel right where I want it in relation to the seat, screen, and pedals.

The Street Dash goes right back in - maybe a little wiring re-route, but nothing really.

[ERA2076]

The drivers foot box shows some stress cracking from the steering, but not at the bearing. The bearing we are putting in is larger so we must modify the box to accept it.

I am thinking of sandwiching the box front wall between aluminum sheet and riveting together. I would cover a larger area than the stock mounting surface to spread load.

The lower inside corner shows stress. Add some sheet here? I don't care about the cracks, but want to stop flexing.

Things to know?

x-cliff

[ERA2076]

We got some more work done this week.

We installed the rear cradle assembly and dialed it in so that wheel back spacing and shock length could be determined. We have some adjustable blocks we use for setting frame height. With the frame sitting at ride height, we cycle the suspension to check for clearance.



These are steel wheels 15 X 10 X 4.5 BS. There is plenty of room to run 4.5 BS on the inside, but a brake package would not work. I purchased 4.5 so I could shim back out checking for interference e.g. caliper clearance, body interference, etc. The 10" wheel increased the tire section by 1/4"



A 3.890 Backspace yields 2.1" of Bump
A 3.700 Backspace yields 1.8" of Bump

The calipers will be very close to fitting at 3.890, but I think will interfere with the inside of the whee barelyl. I will shim out as needed to get clearance. I do not have the calipers yet so I cannot final fit. Wilwood sent me a mockup caliper, but if I scratch it I own it so I am unwilling to mount it in the car. They are building a set with Thermlock pistons.

This picture is 3.700 BS with 1.8" bump. The calipers will fit with this BS, but I will try to shim the least to preserve bump. Tires are Avon. The Avons and steel wheels are laughably heavy.





I built a lid for the reservoirs



I had to bulid a new floor plate. The Tilton pedals come with a pedestal under each cylinder. The pedestals under the gas and brake are used to fasten the pedals down. I did not think about the one under the clutch until I tried to adjust the pedals all the way forward. We added an extension to the steel plate for the clutch pedestal and cut a new slot for it to slide in. You see it on the left.

[strictlypersonl]

I've never seen any stress cracks in the footboxes either. Not even in 30-year-old cars. What he might be seeing are markings from imperfections in the molds. They sometimes come from prying the mold segments apart when de-molding the parts.

[ERA2076]

The cracks do not bother me, but they do indicate noise in the steering. The passenger box shows stress at the bottom corner where it meets the frame.

chr