Bad Starter

[davids2toys]

Originally Posted by patrickt

That strap was a supplemental ground that was in addition to the black ERA ground wire. Yes, I turned on my lights and fans and then measured the current running through that wire and it seemed a bit high. You can not just disconnect the wire and run it in series with your multimeter unless you have a very special multimeter that will measure higher amperage. Most multimeters can only measure very tiny amounts of current that way.

Oh that sucks!
So I need this inductive type to measure higher amps? I think my multi-meter is supposed to measure 10 amps unfused.
So was this with the car running or not running?

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by davids2toys

Oh that sucks!
So I need this inductive type to measure higher amps? I think my multi-meter is supposed to measure 10 amps unfused.
So was this with the car running or not running?

Both with the engine running and not running -- for this it doesn't make a difference. With the negative battery cable going to the passenger side head, and the lights and fans having their negative path via the frame, the majority of the current has to run through that one black wire (or something not as good, like motor mounts, brake components, etc.) Adding supplementary grounds, one a strap from the intake manifold to a bolt on the firewall, and the second was a beautifully crafted 4 gauge wire, with crimped and torch soldered ends, that goes from the negative terminal of the battery to the frame itself. Doing all of that brought the current that was running through that little black wire down to one third of what it originally was. And, it could have just been my imagination, but the starter seemed to crank better as well.

[davids2toys]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Both with the engine running and not running -- for this it doesn't make a difference. With the negative battery cable going to the passenger side head, and the lights and fans having their negative path via the frame, the majority of the current has to run through that one black wire (or something not as good, like motor mounts, brake components, etc.) Adding supplementary grounds, one a strap from the intake manifold to a bolt on the firewall, and the second was a beautifully crafted 4 gauge wire, with crimped and torch soldered ends, that goes from the negative terminal of the battery to the frame itself. Doing all of that brought the current that was running through that little black wire down to one third of what it originally was. And, it could have just been my imagination, but the starter seemed to crank better as well.

OK, good info. I saw your thread with the On the 04 neg lead. I would like to do the same, only in more flexible heavy braid.
I have been trying to learn about clamp meters that measure DC amp all afternoon. There is a plethora of junk out there. Do you have a good inexpensive one you could recommend?
Dave

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by davids2toys

OK, good info. I saw your thread with the On the 04 neg lead. I would like to do the same, only in more flexible heavy braid.
I have been trying to learn about clamp meters that measure DC amp all afternoon. There is a plethora of junk out there. Do you have a good inexpensive one you could recommend?
Dave

Sixty bucks is about as low as I can find one with decent accuracy. Craftsman Clamp On AC/DC Meter

[Dominik]

You might want to connect a cable direct from the negative battery terminal to the starter. This is a place where I don't save weight. I use 50 square welder cable. Not sure how that converts into gauge thickness in the US of A.

To check for losses, use a jumper cable - also with a decent area/cable size ("Diesel" engine jumper cable) from your Battery to starter.

[davids2toys]

Originally Posted by Dominik

You might want to connect a cable direct from the negative battery terminal to the starter. This is a place where I don't save weight. I use 50 square welder cable. Not sure how that converts into gauge thickness in the US of A.

To check for losses, use a jumper cable - also with a decent area/cable size ("Diesel" engine jumper cable) from your Battery to starter.

I was just reading about this last night on another car forum while I was research grounding procedures and straps.
These guys were some real wizards for sure. They said the best way to run the grounds are to go from the BAT directly to a bolt near the starter. From there, go to the frame. They gave some real good reasons why not to go to the frame first from the NEG on the BAT like our ERA cars

[davids2toys]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Sixty bucks is about as low as I can find one with decent accuracy. Craftsman Clamp On AC/DC Meter

Thanks Pat