Where to put water temp sensor?

[patrickt]

What should govern what port you choose for what is whether or not it will fit along with your fat little fingers. I'm assuming you're going to put a little shut off valve in the manifold -- they're only a couple of bucks from Summit -- but you have to make sure that you can reach your hand in there and that the handle of the valve doesn't hit something (like your front carb, or in my case a Turkey Pan, which is removed for this shot). Here's the shot of mine and you can see why it is why it is:

[FWB]

OMG no...no...there's dust on Pat's aircleaner.

your slipping,

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by patrickt

What should govern what port you choose for what is whether or not it will fit along with your fat little fingers. I'm assuming you're going to put a little shut off valve in the manifold -- they're only a couple of bucks from Summit -- but you have to make sure that you can reach your hand in there and that the handle of the valve doesn't hit something (like your front carb, or in my case a Turkey Pan, which is removed for this shot). Here's the shot of mine and you can see why it is why it is:

I will be plumbed the same way as I already have my heater hose nipple/shutoff valve in place and my hoses run.

Patrick - how did ERA run the tubes on your motor for the oil temp sensor and the oil pressure line? Over the top of the engine and down to the oil filter housing and pan - or down at the firewall and along the lower side of the block?

Thanks

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by DanEC

Patrick - how did ERA run the tubes on your motor for the oil temp sensor and the oil pressure line? Over the top of the engine and down to the oil filter housing and pan - or down at the firewall and along the lower side of the block?

The oil temperature sender is located on the driver side rear of the Canton pan. The sending tube goes straight up and through a grommet located below the fuse boxes, There are two grommets there, actually, and the passenger side grommet is for the speedo cable and the driver side grommet is for the oil temperature sender. You can't see it in the second pic, but the arrow is pointing to it. The oil pressure tube runs from the filter housing directly over to the fender and up and under the fender to a hidden grommet along the firewall. You can see it in the pic and the other red arrow is pointing to it.

[patrickt]

Oil temperature tube as viewed from inside the car.

[patrickt]

Note that the oil pressure line is insulated from the filter mount over to the fender wall. From there it tracks up and then straight towards the hidden grommet.

[patrickt]

This is a good shot because it illustrates three points: A is the entry point of the oil pressure line, through the hidden grommet on the firewall, as viewed from inside the car looking up. B shows the oil pressure line loops that help to avoid vibration leaks, and C shows the loops for the excess capillary tube. Someone around here, maybe it was Chas, tried cutting and splicing the capillary tube instead of looping it. (No, it wasn't Chas )

[DanEC]

OK - thanks for the information. I think you have the SC dash - is your oil pressure gage in the center or over by the steering wheel? I have a steet dash and that seems like a long way around to hit the gage in the center. But, either way I think running them down low along the side of the block will work best.

Thanks again



Ahh - more pictures. Should be self explanatory now.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by DanEC

OK - thanks for the information. I think you have the SC dash - is your oil pressure gage in the center or over by the steering wheel?

My oil pressure gauge is over to the left of the steering wheel. Even if it was over by the glove box I think I'd run the pressure line the same way as it is now.

[DanEC]

Looks like I'm going to need a 5/8 inch NPT threaded hole for the sensor. I hope Sears has an appropriate tap and drill bits of 1/2 inch dia.