Build thread for BDR687's FE462

[lovehamr]

First off yes I did not chase all the bolt holes in the head. I did do that with the block but it's a 40 year old piece and the heads are new. I will be drilling the head while it's on the block, I did the other side with a piece of bolt in it and sweated the entire time I was working on it. This one should be much easier; at least the bit won't be bouncing off of bits of peanut butter bolt while also cutting aluminum. My biggest worry is not getting the hole straight.

To answer about the studs, even using threaded rod would not work in this case as the head of the allen bolt sits down in a recess in the VC. And yes, for the price I paid for having something different I expected better quality components. I hope they don't use hardware like this on their GT40s.

Now on to other offending studs. In this pic you'll notice the cool ARP studs and nuts holding the killer KC recip assy.


Guess what happened when I tried to mount the Moroso RR oil pan? Yup, no clearance for the studs on the rear main.


So, back to bolts for the rear main! And the saga continues.

Steve

[elmariachi]

Originally Posted by lovehamr

Guess what happened when I tried to mount the Moroso RR oil pan? Yup, no clearance for the studs on the rear main. So, back to bolts for the rear main! And the saga continues.Steve

I JUST ran into this same problem with my Armondo pan, and I was using main bolts, not studs. With some creativity on the pan and lots of Right Stuff I think I got a good enough seal to stop the seeping in the rear, we'll see. I am praying to the FE gods it won't leak again. Nice build, bada$$ valve covers.

[RICK LAKE]

lovehamer Steve Take a deep breath. We can walk you through this. Valve cover first, Mount the valve cover on the head and remove play on the cover. SHARP BITS. Next Grind the broken bolt threaded end to a point and use this as a center punch to start the hole. You really only need the mark to start in the aluminum. Next Get masking tape and see how depth the hole in the valve cover is until you hit the head. Put the tape on the drill bit leaving just enough room to slide this down the hole for the pilot hole. Put grease on the tape so it doesn't bind up when spinning inside the valve cover hole. Slow Speed on the Drill, aluminum is soft to drill. 3/4" deep should be all you need to do this. If you have the cover tight, your pilot hole is centered. Next get a bit for the correct size to the tap. Use some WD-40 when doing any drilling. Slow spray to cool the bit and keep the chips from sticking to the bit. Blow out the hole and tap it. You will have to eye this for the correct angle for the tap to go in. Put a bolt in one of the other holes and use this for the correct angle. Just take you time and use lube for this too.
Rear main studs. Do you have a wiz wheel grinder? Yes/No? If yesyou ccan cut the main studs in the motor. Just cover the area with paper and tape real good. If you don't want to cut them in the block, remove the studs and cut them in a vise down to the correct size to fit under the oil pan. Are you using a windage tray? You will need two gaskets. This will take up some room also. If you cut the stud on a vise use wet towels to control the heat from the cutting. You can either get a stud installer or double nut the studs to reinstall in the block Don't touch or wiggy the main cap if you can aviod it. Install the shorter studs, lube and torque to spec. Recheck the work and assembly. Get a friend to help you with this. 4 hands are better than 2. Rick L

[lovehamr]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

lovehamer Steve Take a deep breath. We can walk you through this.

Rick, It's not like I can't do it, I'm just pissed and venting that A) I didn't notice it until now and B) why the hell wasn't it already done.

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

Next Grind the broken bolt threaded end to a point and use this as a center punch to start the hole.

Not even close to long enough so I used a long punch.

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

You really only need the mark to start in the aluminum. Next Get masking tape and see how depth the hole in the valve cover is until you hit the head. Put the tape on the drill bit leaving just enough room to slide this down the hole for the pilot hole. Put grease on the tape so it doesn't bind up when spinning inside the valve cover hole. Slow Speed on the Drill, aluminum is soft to drill. 3/4" deep should be all you need to do this. If you have the cover tight, your pilot hole is centered.

I'll have to see if I can find a bit long enough. If I can this could work!

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

Put a bolt in one of the other holes and use this for the correct angle. Just take you time and use lube for this too.

Did this on the other side on the broken bolt as well.

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

Rear main studs. Do you have a wiz wheel grinder? Yes/No? If yesyou ccan cut the main studs in the motor. Just cover the area with paper and tape real good. If you don't want to cut them in the block, remove the studs and cut them in a vise down to the correct size to fit under the oil pan. Rick L

Just the thought of that gives me the heebee jeebees! Besides, unless I cut off all of the nut as well it still wouldn't fit under the pan. I just went back to bolts on the rear main.

Steve

[RICK LAKE]

lovehamer Steve is this the right part for the car?? Companies have boxed stuff wrong before? Are you running a windage tray? Rick L. Ps what numbers stamped on the pan?? Did you call Moroso about this?

[lovehamr]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

lovehamer Steve is this the right part for the car?? Companies have boxed stuff wrong before? Are you running a windage tray? Rick L. Ps what numbers stamped on the pan?? Did you call Moroso about this?

The pan is definitely an FE pan, no windage tray, it's going in a Cobra with no cross pieces under it so I didn't even have to use a front or rear sump. If you would really like the #s I'll look when I get back home. In the rear the factory bolts sit almost flush with the main cap; the ARP studs with nuts protrude above (or below depending on how you're looking at it) that level enough to hit the back of the OP where it curves from the pan rail. As far as calling Moroso goes, no I haven't and probably won't as I bought this thing used from one of the guys over on the FE forum and at any rate it's for a factory FE and probably wasn't designed with ARP studs in mind.
Steve