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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2010, 04:22 PM
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Default Looking to buy

Need some advice:

I am a former mid year Vette guy, tired of babysitting old cars .Want to buy an AC. I have looked over hundreds of ads but thinking that I should not buy a project or garage built. I am not a mechanic-type. Just want to drive & enjoy.

Also seems like you never know what you are going to get when you buy pre-owned. Everything is too far away to check out. Can't see how Iwould ever do the research.

Thinking I should buy a completed production car from a name brand company. I have done some research. I like the response from Lonestar & they will build what I want: basic car with 351 stroked to 427 (550 HP), for about $45,000.

Questions:

> Can someone give me relatively unbiased comments re: pro & con on the different complete car manufacturers: quality, reliability, resale, etc.?

> How much horsepower can you build into a stroked 351 (427)& still have a very streetable & uncomplicated car (single 4 barrlel, premium unleaded gas, etc. nothing too exotic)?

> Are these cars generally reliable or do they need lots of tinkering, etc.?

> Do they come emissions ready for your state.

Again, thinking of buying a complete car & want a fairly hassle-free process & a car that will hold its value better. I would also consider an extremely low miles private sale but most posters seem to want nearly the price of a new one.

The newbie could use some help here.

Thanks,
Lewis
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2010, 04:59 PM
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Lewis, you are certainly in a buyer's market. If you're looking in the $45K range, you can pick up great deals by looking at Superformance, Backdraft,EM, ERA, Shell Valley, and several other excellent makes, maybe even a lower end Kirkham, if someone is a little "motivated". Funny how well cash can talk. The first two I mentioned, are actually factory built cars and their fit and finish is generally very good. Other's might be a little more true to the orginals, if that's what you are after. There are many people on this site that would most likely be very happy to go look over a car that is for sale, if you don't want to spend the time and money to do it yourself. Me, if I was going to spend that much cash, I'd be making a weekend trip, just to get a warm and fuzzy that the car was or wasn't what I wanted.
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 07-31-2010, 07:40 PM
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Default Thanks Karl

Thanks for the advice on the kit car makes. I was not sure what the market was like. Like everything else, sounds down.I will also keep looking for a very lowmiles car as opposed to a new factory built.Long process.

Thanks again & please let me know if you find a good lead with the right price.

Thanks,
Lewis
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 07-31-2010, 08:27 PM
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Power and reliability are generally opposing forces. It's a very carefull balancing act. Build in a lot of power, and reliability starts to drop.

Don't worry about building to a specific power number. Instead, build in the parts you want for a solid reliable engine, and let the power numbers fall where they may. For a fun relaibele tinker-resistant engine, I'd use a 408 (not a 427), 10:1'ish compression, Hydraulic roller cam, EFI, and electronic ignition. Turn the key and drive away, just like any ford Mustang.

With a solid engine, matching drive line, and a fairly simple build, these cars are almost as reliable as anything off the Ford assembly line. All they really need is routine maintenance and a good cleaning once in a while.

As for a builder, I don't have any experiance there.
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2010, 03:34 AM
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If you are that serious - contact doctodd for his bdr 611 - it all you can dream of... and then you can put your personal adjusting into it...

http://clubcobra.com/forums/showthre...hreadid=104662
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Last edited by henrik; 08-01-2010 at 03:36 AM..
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2010, 09:30 AM
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Default B&B cobra

please take a look at B&B manufacturing, at www.bandbroadster.com we can offer you a full turnkey cobra 351 5 speed car original style wheels any color you want all tubular front and rear suspension QA1 adjustable coil over shocks 9" rear 4 wheel disc brakes ready to go for 39,500 ck out the owners group photo section and see some of the cars we have built over the last 30 years. If you have any questions please feel free to call at 417 472-3547
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2010, 09:47 AM
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You might also want to review this thread for more tips:

quest for cobra
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  #8 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2010, 11:08 AM
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Even though you are excited about buying - also keep in mind "resale" and maintenance of value. Some cars are easier to sell than others. I believe that Superformance, ERA, Kirkham, and possibly Backdraft, because of general overall quality levels - sell faster - priced properly. This is an opinion only.
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Old 08-01-2010, 11:55 AM
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Smile for sale

Country Country . Com http://cobracountry.com/GooglePage.html


I know this Cobra. It's owner, Coach Lane is a good friend onn mine. You can drive this car home. It has a hard top that goes with it.
This is a copy of the Cobra Country ad. If you go to Cobra Country you can see the pictures, or you can check out my gallery. I have several pics posted.
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For Sale: 1966 Hurricane 427S/C Cobra. Ford Vermilion Red w/white stripes and black pinstripes. The BIG Picture: Click Here! Under the hood: 428 Keith Craft stroker (461 cid). All engine info and dyno sheet (600 hp/ 619 ft.lbs. torque) included for you. Engine outfitted with all the good stuff: MSD distributor, 6AL box, Holley 750 carb. Canton front sump T-style oil pan. Edelbrock Hypo water pump. high-volume aluminum radiator with high rpm fan (2,800 cfm), March pulley setup. BIG Photo of powerplant: Click Here! Geartrain: Lakewood scattershield, Tremec 500 gearbox, rugged 9" Ford rear end (3.25:1 gear ratio), Moser axles. Suspension/brakes/rolling stock: 4-wheel 11" disc brakes, four QA1 adjustable, chromed, coil-over shocks. Wilwood pedal assembly and master cylinders, adjustable front upper control arms; rear end has three link adjustable control arms and panhard bar. Vintage Wheels fitted with Mickey Thompson tires. In the cockpit: period-correct hardwood-rimmed Cobra steering wheel, Classic Instruments gauges, fire extinguisher, black vinyl dash, seats and door panels with black carpet, black floormats trimmed with rich red piping; stainless steel footbox and upright support covers, 2-speed heater, wind wings and visor, doors and trunk weather-stripped, battery cutoff switch, trunk carpet. BIG Photo of cockpit: Click Here! You also get: black hard top with insulation and windows (sliders on each side), and a complete photo album of build and maintenance record. Very well taken care of, and this serpent has all the “bugs” worked out. 8,800 miles on car and 8,000 on engine. This nimble little Cobra handles very well; it's extremely quick yet very streetable and driver-friendly. BIG hardtop shot: Click Here! $41,000 obo [or $38,500 w/o the hard top]. Contact Mike at (256) 483-9472 CST, or email: MikeDLane@comcast.net
Florence, Alabama
20 June/September..
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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2010, 01:18 PM
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Send me a pm or email for my number. I built a Lone Star and we can talk details. It's a wonderful car and Brian is a great man.

Kevin
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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2010, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by needtobuy View Post
Need some advice:

I am a former mid year Vette guy, tired of babysitting old cars .Want to buy an AC. I have looked over hundreds of ads but thinking that I should not buy a project or garage built. I am not a mechanic-type. Just want to drive & enjoy.

Also seems like you never know what you are going to get when you buy pre-owned. Everything is too far away to check out. Can't see how Iwould ever do the research.

Thinking I should buy a completed production car from a name brand company. I have done some research. I like the response from Lonestar & they will build what I want: basic car with 351 stroked to 427 (550 HP), for about $45,000.

Questions:

> Can someone give me relatively unbiased comments re: pro & con on the different complete car manufacturers: quality, reliability, resale, etc.?

> How much horsepower can you build into a stroked 351 (427)& still have a very streetable & uncomplicated car (single 4 barrlel, premium unleaded gas, etc. nothing too exotic)?

> Are these cars generally reliable or do they need lots of tinkering, etc.?

> Do they come emissions ready for your state.

Again, thinking of buying a complete car & want a fairly hassle-free process & a car that will hold its value better. I would also consider an extremely low miles private sale but most posters seem to want nearly the price of a new one.

The newbie could use some help here.

Thanks,
Lewis
For a little more money you could have a real 427 sideoiler powered ERA



Bill S.


PS: Read the FAQ I posted in the thread linked above.
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2010, 04:34 PM
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Regardless of what anyone tells you, YES they all require alot of tinkering and maintenance. They are nothing when compared to your dailey driver or even vette when it comes tightening bolts, fine tuning, little bugs.

(Are these cars generally reliable or do they need lots of tinkering, etc)

I would stick with SPF or BDR or ERA, you can easily get a low mile car with your budget and your downside is very limited. For example a new spf with 408 stroker $57,900, same car used with 1K miles and most of the bugs killed $49K
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2010, 04:56 PM
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LSC cobra- $ 40,000.
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2010, 04:16 PM
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Kevin,

Thanks, but please explain. What is an LSC? New, used, details, etc.? Are you a dealer or private party?

Thx,

Lewis
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Old 08-04-2010, 04:32 PM
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Hello Lewis,
Sorry, the LSC means Lone Star Classic. I own one and really like it. The wheel base of the original cobras is 90". The LSC is 94", all in the cockpit. It's easier to get in & out of because the door is longer. I'm 5'9" and can't touch the firewall. I can actually stretch out and drive. The car is heavier than a lot of other manufactures, because the body is thicker and frame is stout.

I own a body shop and fiberglass can shrink, star, crack ect. The LSC does not have any of these issues. The detail's like fit & finish of the undersides of the hood, doors, and deck lid, are the best looking I've seen. The molded dash is also very nice. It also has a 4" drop floor pan, which sits you down low, keeping your head below the windshield.

Brian (the owner) has a unique,... 7-day build program, to help owners with the build if you don't have much experience, lack of room or tool's. . One was just posted here and finished last week.

http://www.lonestarclassics.com/lsc-...Home-Build.cfm

www.lonestarclassics.com (Main website)

If you want details and to chat, send me your number.
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Last edited by FUNFER2; 08-04-2010 at 04:36 PM..
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2010, 04:38 PM
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Buy or build according to your budget. I know there are people out there that spent more on their engine than my entire build.
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Old 08-04-2010, 05:05 PM
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lol,...that's for sure.

How about $115,000,.... and it's a fiberglass cobra !
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Old 08-07-2010, 11:52 AM
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Default top brands

can you please list what you consider to be the top 5 brands (complete cars) with a little pro & con. Looking @ LoneStar (extra room, etc.) & price good. I am also posting on the wanna be forum.

Thanks,
Lewis
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Old 08-07-2010, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by needtobuy View Post
can you please list what you consider to be the top 5 brands (complete cars) with a little pro & con. Looking @ LoneStar (extra room, etc.) & price good. I am also posting on the wanna be forum.

Thanks,
Lewis
Use the search engine above... you will find many threads covering this subject...

good luck
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Old 08-07-2010, 12:11 PM
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The best one is the one sitting in my garage, then again my opinion might be biased. In the end it wont matter how much you spend, if you are not happy with the car, the amount you "saved" will be meaningless or the amount you spent will be just that much more you wasted.

You need to drive a SPF,BDR, factory five, ERA, they all drive different and feel different.
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