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Kirkham Motorsports

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Old 05-11-2013, 05:58 PM
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A thought on the trunk bungee cord. I started with the same set up (with the hooks). They will damage the paint. I tried the 3M clear tape under the hooks and that too was damaged. I ended up with a longer piece that I cut the hooks from
and tied knots in both ends. no scratching and it won't fall off "accidently"
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Old 05-12-2013, 08:44 AM
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Rick

That is a cool idea!
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:51 AM
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That car is *so* nice. I came very close to doing Hertz gold on my ERA. Love that look.
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:05 AM
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Have my nephew working on Radyot and glove box door...... Door to be made by Peter Klutt of Legendary




Last edited by 1985 CCX; 08-29-2016 at 10:33 AM..
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Old 05-30-2013, 02:12 PM
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Ready to install......................
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Old 05-30-2013, 04:01 PM
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You sure you got it right?
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Old 05-30-2013, 06:31 PM
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Hey, my steering wheel looks exactly like yours!





Awesome!
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Old 05-08-2013, 01:21 PM
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Nice work. You make the protectors for the bungie holes?
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Old 05-08-2013, 01:33 PM
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Hyde

Yes, they are aluminum body washers with the rivot holes drilled by hand by eye to keep asymetry.

Trying to post each small step, most of the suspension work is less visual and time consuming. Now I should be back in action...
Original Raydyot going in along with gas tank, final brake lines and radiator hoses....

Fluidyne installed with old Corvette unit to be tried after SU.

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Old 05-08-2013, 02:07 PM
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Man... this thing is SWEET! Jeff, what's up with that shiney new steering wheel? Awesome! In my book, the price is worth it if you get what you want. You will have to give me your contact at Motolita. I want to order the correct wheel for the GT40.
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Old 05-08-2013, 02:32 PM
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Loved the Hertz gold myself..........
Planned Rangoon Red until I saw 3021 after freshen up. Loved it so much it changed my direction on the color.

True story:
The rear plate frame was originally used by Carter Getty on 3047 (Hertz gold 427) as it was sold to Jack Launtz. Jack was not a fan of the frame so it landed on the wall as a "maybe to use someday part" then decades later after his passing landed in mailbox. It spent a year on the Cooper in every day use until I realized it was not a recent repop so I boxed it up to use on this creation. Oddly enough it once again has landed on a Hertz gold Cobra.
Kinda neat...
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Old 05-08-2013, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1985 CCX View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwdb10 View Post
Jeff, what's up with that shiney new steering wheel?

He's right... that thing needs "the treatment!"

Looking good
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Toploader and 3.31 rear

Last edited by PDUB; 05-08-2013 at 08:27 PM..
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Old 05-09-2013, 02:22 PM
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Treatment is what the doctor ordered......
You guys know me by now, can't be too shiny, leave that to Corvette owners
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:34 AM
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I like it!
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Old 05-14-2013, 01:40 PM
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Rick

Any tips on wiring the car? Any good pics you can share?
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Old 05-15-2013, 10:04 AM
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Tell him to hurry up! Summer is for driving!
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Old 05-21-2013, 08:02 AM
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Why not get shaft collars and washers. Bend the hooks to a 90 degree angle, but them through, put a fender washer on and then a shaft collar. The bungee will still look exactly like the originals, but be captive and you won't be scratching things trying to shove the hook in.
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Old 05-21-2013, 09:25 AM
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Another great approach........
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Old 05-26-2013, 08:29 AM
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Default Switch mods

The original Ford switch's need to be modified to fit the dash. I decided to do it as Shelby would. Grab whats on the shelf and make it work....

One used a larger type spring very similar to the Ford unit
another used a part from a coupling on a compressor
another used a simple aluminum sleeve from a plumbing application

Should be all set now....
Ready to install
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LMH and *13* like this.
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Old 05-26-2013, 03:55 PM
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I don't know what route you are going for a harness, store bought, custom or something from England, but this is what I did.

First you have to see were I came from. The attached pics show the original "professionally made for this car" harness. It worked as badly as it looked. The small multi pin connecters were under size and to my thinking there were too many connections and possible opportunities for failure. Same goes for the old fuse box. no less than 3 terminal strips. Way too much complexity and possible problems. pics 1 and 2
Everything was ripped out and I salvaged what I could. A new diagram was drawn up and revised more times than I can remember. Finally I posted drawings of each individual fuse circuit, in color, on the wall for reference. See background pic 3. A layout board was made using a dash as a template and labeled. I chose a non standard layout that put warning lights directly above the same gauge and was more symmetrical in appearance. A personal thing. I also went with a volt gauge over an amp gauge. Again safety. I used old AN aircraft switches with the radium tips.
All wires are full length with no connections except were necessary to splice for multiple uses(dash lights). All grounds are done by individual wire, no daisy chains.
40 amp relays are used to operate the fan, fuel pump, and horn. A load reduction relay is used for power supply to the dash, tail lights, wipers, instruments and an aux power port to remove any strain on the ignition switch. A VW headlamp relay is used for hi and low beams. I planned to use an electronic rear light splitter but it would not work with the LED boards I used in the rear lights. 4 relays were used to mimic the Lucas box. Should have just used some resistors in retrospect. The harness was wrapped in woven shrink wrap on the exterior runs. All connection were crimped, soldered, and shrink wrapped with plastic. New fuse box was labeled and the harness test fitted to a dash and smoke tested.
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Last edited by Rick 427 Cobra; 05-26-2013 at 03:58 PM..
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