289 progress........ - Page 31

1985 CCX · #**601** (**permalink**) 05-15-2013, 06:05 AM

Have my nephew working on Radyot and glove box door...... Door to be made by Peter Klutt of Legendary

*13* · #**602** (**permalink**) 05-15-2013, 09:04 AM

Tell him to hurry up! Summer is for driving!

spl310 · #**603** (**permalink**) 05-21-2013, 07:02 AM

Why not get shaft collars and washers. Bend the hooks to a 90 degree angle, but them through, put a fender washer on and then a shaft collar. The bungee will still look exactly like the originals, but be captive and you won't be scratching things trying to shove the hook in.

1985 CCX · #**604** (**permalink**) 05-21-2013, 08:25 AM

Another great approach........

1985 CCX · #**605** (**permalink**) 05-26-2013, 07:29 AM

The original Ford switch's need to be modified to fit the dash. I decided to do it as Shelby would. Grab whats on the shelf and make it work....

One used a larger type spring very similar to the Ford unit
another used a part from a coupling on a compressor
another used a simple aluminum sleeve from a plumbing application

Should be all set now....
Ready to install

Rick 427 Cobra · #**606** (**permalink**) 05-26-2013, 02:55 PM

I don't know what route you are going for a harness, store bought, custom or something from England, but this is what I did.

First you have to see were I came from. The attached pics show the original "professionally made for this car" harness. It worked as badly as it looked. The small multi pin connecters were under size and to my thinking there were too many connections and possible opportunities for failure. Same goes for the old fuse box. no less than 3 terminal strips. Way too much complexity and possible problems. pics 1 and 2
Everything was ripped out and I salvaged what I could. A new diagram was drawn up and revised more times than I can remember. Finally I posted drawings of each individual fuse circuit, in color, on the wall for reference. See background pic 3. A layout board was made using a dash as a template and labeled. I chose a non standard layout that put warning lights directly above the same gauge and was more symmetrical in appearance. A personal thing. I also went with a volt gauge over an amp gauge. Again safety. I used old AN aircraft switches with the radium tips.
All wires are full length with no connections except were necessary to splice for multiple uses(dash lights). All grounds are done by individual wire, no daisy chains.
40 amp relays are used to operate the fan, fuel pump, and horn. A load reduction relay is used for power supply to the dash, tail lights, wipers, instruments and an aux power port to remove any strain on the ignition switch. A VW headlamp relay is used for hi and low beams. I planned to use an electronic rear light splitter but it would not work with the LED boards I used in the rear lights. 4 relays were used to mimic the Lucas box. Should have just used some resistors in retrospect. The harness was wrapped in woven shrink wrap on the exterior runs. All connection were crimped, soldered, and shrink wrapped with plastic. New fuse box was labeled and the harness test fitted to a dash and smoke tested.

Rick 427 Cobra · #**607** (**permalink**) 05-26-2013, 03:10 PM

Final pic shows the test fit. All components are under the dash including the fuses, MSD, and battery cut off (theft more than anything). Not original but I like a clean under hood look. The only harness connectors are for the TI switch and the harness to the rear.

*13* · #**608** (**permalink**) 05-26-2013, 03:23 PM

Nice looking harness! Very clean!

1985 CCX · #**609** (**permalink**) 05-28-2013, 06:13 AM

Thanks Rick

1985 CCX · #**610** (**permalink**) 05-30-2013, 01:12 PM

Ready to install......................

*13* · #**611** (**permalink**) 05-30-2013, 03:01 PM

You sure you got it right?

PDUB · #**612** (**permalink**) 05-30-2013, 05:31 PM

Hey, my steering wheel looks exactly like yours

!

Awesome!

1985 CCX · #**613** (**permalink**) 05-31-2013, 12:29 PM

Nice job Paul!

Weekend on car to hopefully make some headway....

PDUB · #**614** (**permalink**) 05-31-2013, 08:08 PM

Thanks Jeff, you do nice work

!

Hope you have a productive session or to in the next couple of days. Keep us posted to how it goes.

1985 CCX · #**615** (**permalink**) 06-01-2013, 12:49 PM

Had a wheel wire session with Dennis and his SPF this am..
Installed driveshaft... Wheels to motor all done.
Just need to weld on the driveshaft loop....

mickmate · #**616** (**permalink**) 06-01-2013, 06:14 PM

Excellent Jeff! Can we drop the tail of the trans a tad or do you think it needs it?

1985 CCX · #**617** (**permalink**) 06-04-2013, 06:38 AM

Finally drilled body to accept the Enots cap for fuel addition. This starts the process of fuel lines for the start up.
I think it is good as the trans will hit the crossmember if I lower it another 1/2", wanted a little bit of play. Rubber mount may also settle a bit. I am very close to the tailshaft height when compared to 2136. Should be fine.... Thanks for question.

Vintage bowmalloy hardware was from Kevin Ahern. Thanks!

Bill D · #**618** (**permalink**) 06-04-2013, 06:50 AM

This is one of my favorites thread to follow. Great progress!

MAStuart · #**619** (**permalink**) 06-04-2013, 09:23 AM

Hi Jeff How long is your drive shaft (center to center) of U joint. It doesn't look like it could slide much more into the trans. When I was checking things out for my build . I thought boy this thing needs a short drive shaft.

Reading between the lines it sounds like you might think the trans mount might need to be lowered . Is this for drive line at the correct angles. I take it that the big fin or gusset on the T10 tail housing will hit the cross tube if lowered much more. How far down is the top of the trans mount (the compared to the top of the frame. I don't mean the rubber but the steel where the rubber mounts. I ask some of this because I think there is some problems with my plans . I know that I am building a coupe and the engines were lower 1 inch and offset to the right 1 inch. I am not sure if they lower the trans mount on my plans. I think if it were lowered it wound have better drive line angles. I have a pic of one of the coupes that shows the trans mount has been lowered and the cross tube dented for clearance of the shift linkage and the fin on the tailstock .

Your car is sure looking good .

Mark

1985 CCX · #**620** (**permalink**) 06-04-2013, 11:12 AM

Mark

The driveshaft from base of the flange yoke to center of trans yoke is 9 5/8". I have about 1/8" to the trans boot then it will sqeeze an additional 3/4". Keep in mind I have IRS so the only movement of the trans yoke will be motor movement in the rubber mounts. Motor, bellhousing, trans and differential all connected to frame thus stuck fast. Movement comes from the half shafts.

The trans height does not offer a straight shot to the diffy. The drive shaft is designed for slight offsett using 1310 ujoints. In order to drop the trans low enough to make straight shot I would have to shave bottom of trans, lower trans mount, possibly cut out and lower crossmember or notch it. At that point I would push into the driveway and light her up.....

Then buy a KMS....

This set up will work just fine...