Toooo! tight engine

[gman]

You got it right. My rods were not a matched set and were reconditioned and re numbered. if you look at the bearing as it sits in the rod it will favor 1 side, the side that goes next to the other rod, this allows room for the radius on the crankshaft jurnal.If your rods were an original matched set and they were assembled as you say ,I don't think this is it. I caught mine after everything was spinning fine until I put in the 7TH rod and piston

[ed cougar]

I had similar worries with my 428 10.5 compression, with the engine completely assembled it took a breaker bar and all the strength I had to turn the crank without the plugs in it! My engine builder was right there with me cold lashing the valves and assured me that it was normal for a new engine. He was right it runs great and all is well.

[JOHNNYCOBRA]

I checked the crank end play, It's ok'

all the ring end gaps look right on'

but the pistons drag in the bores quite a bit
with the rings installed. pushing them inside the bore
they drag a lot. but the piston clearance is fine?

I'm still putting the pistons on one at a time to check the drag
and if it gets better or not'


JG

[kingkobra]

Did you check the ring end gap? If the ring ends touch when installed in the cylinder, the assembly will be really tight. I've heard of this causing engine seizeure.

I don't want to insult your intelligence but you should check the ring gap by installing the ring only in the cylinder (push it in with a piston to square it up to the bore).

Check your ring instructions, but there should be about 0.050" end gap.

Have fun!!

[JOHNNYCOBRA]

The ring end gap is per instructions.016-.020

I've read that Hypereutectic pistons require a bit less gap
due to the reduced piston expansion.

Thanks

JG

[JOHNNYCOBRA]

Well I finished checking all the rings and gaps, everything looks good

The crank end play is about .008 and good

I re-lubed all the bearings and retorqued everything so I'll be putting the heads back on and setting up the valve lash and the timing.

The engine appears to turn at about the same by hand

I was told you can set up a half horse electric motor to do the break-in, running it off the crank with a pulley.

Is this a good idea?

JG

[PatBuckley]

I do not think it is necessary.

Put a torque wrench on the crank and see how much torque it takes to turn it over without the plugs in.

Do it now.

Pat

[trularin]

Pat's right. Get a reading on the torque before you go any further.

Let us know what ya got.

Remember, your starter is going to crank this over.

[JOHNNYCOBRA]

I'l check it tonight!

I remember when I had this put together before it
almost burned out the starter. This is what got me
thinking it was too tight even for new engine.

Thanks

[PatBuckley]

For a comparison I put a torque wrench on my engine and it took 25-30 foot pounds of torque to turn it. FYI

[weekendwarrior]

Did you mic the crank? Once had a 460 where the machine shop turned the crank but one journal was off a thou, engine was very tight.

Good Luck