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				04-26-2010, 05:02 AM
			
			
			
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				 "Long  Rod" 351-W  tech/info needed 
 Here's  the  story:My  niece's  husband  has  a  mid  80's big Bronco, hunting/knock around  truck, 351-W  in  it.I  did  a  "standard"  rebuild  on it  last  year, basically  rings/bearing. It  was  tired  then  and  even  more  so  now, had  a  fair  amount  of  wear  in  the  cylinders, but  since  he  only  puts  a  couple  of thousand  miles  a  year  on  it, he  didn't  want  to  spend  a  bunch  of  money  on  it.....
 
 The  engine  is  very  "tired"  now  and  he  wants  "us"  to  rebuild  it. He's  read  a  few  articles  about  buiding  a  "long  rod"  351-W  using  the  351M/400  rods.....I  did  some  research  and  found  some  info, but  not  all  I  need.... We  have  2  complete  351-W  engines  to  work  with  and  a  couple  of  351-M  engines  for  parts.
 
 According  to  what  I've  found, you  use  the  351-M/400  rods  (they  are  the  same) roughly  6.5  inch  rods  and  what  we're  looking  for  is  the  piston  type/number.... The  rod  journal  are  the  same  size, but  I  don't  have  the  351-M/400  rods  with  me  yet, to  measure  the  width...
 
 Are  the  rod  width's  the  same  or  do  I  have  to  do  some  work  on  the  rod???? The  plan  is  to  bore  the  block  .030  over  and  use  the  351-W  crank  with the  long  rods  and  whatever  piston  is  needed, mild  camshaft  in  the  490 to 500  lift  range  with  mild  duration  for  a  low  rpm/high  torque  engine  which  is  what  he  needs  in  the  real  heavy  Bronco.....
 
 Anyone  done  this  or  have  any  info??????
 
 I  see  a  few  places  have  the  "kit"  for  sale  for  about  a  thousand  bucks, but  he's  got  a  baby  on  the  way  and fixin  to  build  a  new house  and  we  have  the  351-M/400  rods  for  free, all we'll  need  to  do  is  bore the  block  and  get  the  correct  pistons, machine  work  if  any  is  needed  will  be  almost  free, trading  the  machine  shop  some  old  blocks  for  the  machine  work...
 
 Thanks  for  any  help........
 
 David
 
				__________________DAVID  GAGNARD
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				04-26-2010, 05:31 AM
			
			
			
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 For a long term engine, I'd rather have the shorter rod and a taller piston for stability.  That piston is going to have a compression height of about 1.250".  
 The big end widths are the same for a Cleveland/Windsor.
 
 You can get Scat Windsor replacement rods at a very low price.....probably cheaper than having to buy custom pistons.
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				04-26-2010, 07:34 AM
			
			
			
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						Ca Cobra Make, Engine: NAF 289 Slabside Early Comp Car with 289 Webers and all the goodies. Cancelling the efforts of several Priuses 
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 Are the mains the same in a Windsor and 351m-400? 
				__________________ 
				Rick
 
As you slide down the Banister of Life, may the splinters never be pointing the wrong way   |  
	
		
	
	
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				04-26-2010, 07:45 AM
			
			
			
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 Yes, main journal diameter is the same. |  
	
		
	
	
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				04-26-2010, 09:26 AM
			
			
			
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 The main sizes are the same and on the rods the crank is the same size but there is .010 difference in the rod big end bore size. Use the correct bearing |  
	
		
	
	
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				04-26-2010, 10:44 AM
			
			
			
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					Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Freedomia,, 
						Il Cobra Make, Engine: Coupe,Blue w/white stripes SB; Roadster, Blue w/white stripes BB w/2-4s; SPF installer/Hot Rod-Custom Car builder 
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 It is the pin end that needs to be considered. I'm pretty certain that the M/400 have larger diameter pins than the Cleveland/Windsor. If you plan on busing them, that would take care of the diameter variation but the pistons would need be compatible with pin locks.Rod journal sizes are the same, as are mains but pistons configuration is where you may have problems. Of course these type of problems are easily corrected with $$. It may be cheaper to have the pistons opened to the M/400 pin size and retain pressfit rods.
 
				__________________WDZ
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				04-26-2010, 01:05 PM
			
			
			
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by Woodz428  It is the pin end that needs to be considered. I'm pretty certain that the M/400 have larger diameter pins than the Cleveland/Windsor. If you plan on busing them, that would take care of the diameter variation but the pistons would need be compatible with pin locks.Rod journal sizes are the same, as are mains but pistons configuration is where you may have problems. Of course these type of problems are easily corrected with $$. It may be cheaper to have the pistons opened to the M/400 pin size and retain pressfit rods.
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Thanks  guys, so  far I've  found  that  the  rod  journal  size  is  the  same  for  the  351-W  and  the  351M/400, read  were  you  use  the  same  piston  as  used  for  a  331  stroker  for  the  pin  height, trying  to  confirm  this. KB  makes  a  flat  top  piston  for  this  application, which one  is  the  question......According  to  what  I've  read  so  far, you  use  the  351-W  crank, just  change  the  rods  and  pistons........the  rod  and  crank  journals  are  the  same  size  in  the  351-W  and  the  351M/400  engines....351M/400  rods  are  about  1/2  inch  longer  and  beefier........hence  the  need  for  a  shorter  piston.
 
This  is  a  super  budget  rebuild, so  far, he'll  have  to  bore  the  block  (has  about  .020  wear  in  the  cylinders), we  have  two  running  351M's  at  our  disposal, all  we  have  to  do  is  go  get  them.So  the  rods  are  free,main  thing  is  to  find  out  exactly  which  piston  we  need  and  we  should  be  good  to  go.... 
Woodz,from  what  I  can  gather, there  is  a  flat  top  piston  out  there  for  this  combo  that  is  pressed-pin  fit, just  trying  to  find  out  which  one...
 
Reports  on  other  sites  were  very  good  on  this  combo, especially  for  heavy  trucks/4x4's  like  his,  where  low  rpm, good  torque  is  needed... 
 
Even  had  a  few  Mustang  drag  racers  using  this  combo  with  very  good  results....It  seems  like  an  easy and  inexpensive  way  to  build  a  stump  puller  engine, which  is  what  he's  looking  far, and  with  a  new  baby on  the  way  as  well  as  a  new  house fixin  to  start  up, his  budget  for  this  is  non-existant.......
 
Sure  wish I  could  find  someone  had  done  this  so  I  could  pick  his  brain  for  the  little  details  to  do......
 
We're  gonna  re-use  pretty  much  erveything  else, heads/intake etc.,etc., about the  only  other  thing  is  a  new  hydraulic  cam......
 
Thanks  again;
 
David
				__________________DAVID  GAGNARD
 			 Last edited by DAVID GAGNARD; 04-26-2010 at 01:08 PM..
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				04-27-2010, 03:54 AM
			
			
			
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						Va. Cobra Make, Engine: 1967 E-M with 302 Ford 
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 I had a machine shop do my 408 machine work ,which had 351 m rods and they also machined a notch in the bottom of each cylinder skirt for the rod bolt on each to clear due to the long rod.
 bonos
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				04-27-2010, 06:56 PM
			
			
			
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by Bonos  I had a machine shop do my 408 machine work ,which had 351 m rods and they also machined a notch in the bottom of each cylinder skirt for the rod bolt on each to clear due to the long rod.
 bonos
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The  351-W  bock  can  only  handle  a  3.5  inch  stroke  in  "standard/factory"  form, anything  more, one  has  to  notch  the  bottom  of  the  cylinders  for  rod  clearance, much  the  same  with  a  factory  302  block. 
Your  408  should  have  a  4  inch  stroke, so  notching  the  cylinders  is  a  must, regardless  of  what  type  or  brand  of  connecting  rod  used....
 
David
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				04-27-2010, 04:11 PM
			
			
			
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 Is the 351M the same deck hieght as the 400M?
 I heard the 351M is the same deck as the 351C -- believe little that you hear.
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				04-27-2010, 06:52 PM
			
			
			
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by olddog  Is the 351M the same deck hieght as the 400M?
 I heard the 351M is the same deck as the 351C -- believe little that you hear.
 |  Yes, the  351M  acutally  uses  the  same  block  as  the  400, don't  know  about the  351C........ 
We  have  an  older  parts  house  here  in  town  that  still  does things  the  old  fashion  way, by  looking  things  up  in  the  books, not  on  a  computer, they  let  me  go  behind  the  counter  and  look  thru  the  books  doing  research  and  they  also have  "inter-change"  books  for  varouis  manufacters.....
 
I  went  thru  them  the  other  day  checking  part  numbers  and  such  and  the  only  difference  in  the  351M  and  400  is  the  crankshaft  and  pistons...all  other parts  are  common  to  both  engines...also, in  my  research, it  was  stated  that  in  1971, Ford  could  not  meet  production  needs  with  the  351W  engines,so  the  351M  was  built  at  another  plant  to  fill  the  need  for  351 cu in  engines  for  cars  and  trucks...shortly  afterwards  when  production  met/exceeded  demand for  the  351  engines, they  decided  to  up  it  to  400 cu in, easiest  way  was  to  stroke  the  351M, so  they  did, all  was  needed  was  a  4 inch  stroke crankshaft  and  new  pistons, the  block  was  beefed  up  enough  from  the  begining  to  accomadate  the  4  inch  stroke  without  any  modifications, whereas, the  351 W  could  not  handle  a  4  inch  stroke  without  modifying  the  block, so  the  400  was  born, very  inexpensively.....
 
In  july  of  1978, four  months  before  I  married  my  wifey, she  ordered  a  new  T-Bird  and  her  dad  talked  her  into  getting  the  400 cu in  2V  motor instead  of  the  standard  302, he  liked  big  motors, so  she  did....
 
It  was  a  good  motor, nothing  great, but  a  good  motor, the  only  thing  I  found  was  it  seemed  "slow"  to  rev  up  and  get  up  to  speed"  when  you  stood  on  the  gas  pedal, but  then  again, in  1978,it  was  a  heavily  smogged  engine.....in  November  of  that  year  we  were  married  and  went  to  Florida  on  our  honeymoon  and  I  remember  the  car  getting  17 mpg  on  the  interstate  cruising  at  75mph, not  bad  at  the  time  comparing  it  to  other  big  heavy  cars.....
 
David
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				04-28-2010, 05:10 AM
			
			
			
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					Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Portsmouth, 
						VA Cobra Make, Engine: Unique 427 S/C, Dart 427W "Replica" Ford engine 
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 Try "High Performance Small Block Ford Engines" from the Hot Rod Magazine Technical Library. It's a collection of engine build articles, mostly budget builds.Bill Stradtner
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				04-28-2010, 06:20 AM
			
			
			
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 I think a 4" stroke in a 351W block with a regular 6" rod will clear without notching.  A 4.100" stroke crank will fit with a 6.200" rod in a stock block without much grinding at all.  
 I would imagine that the combination of a 4" stroke with a extremely long rod would probably take some work.
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				04-28-2010, 10:36 AM
			
			
			
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by sllib  Try "High Performance Small Block Ford Engines" from the Hot Rod Magazine Technical Library. It's a collection of engine build articles, mostly budget builds.Bill Stradtner
 |  One  of  the  few  places  I  have  not  looked  at  yet, will  do  so, thanks.
 
	Quote: 
	
		| How much notching will be determined more by the shape/size of the big end profile---a rod for a Chev or Honda size crank pin will be much smaller profile than the stock ford size |  From  what  I've  read  so  far, no  notching  required  on  this  set-up, not  that  it's  a  problem.....On  my  331  stroker  race  motor (factory 302  block) with  Eagle  H-beam  rods, it  took  a  good  notch  on  the  bottom  of  each  cylinder  to  give  adequate  clearance, probably  spent  30  minutes  on  the  whole  job..
 
David
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				05-13-2010, 10:25 AM
			
			
			
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 I just took delivery of my newly published book How to Build SB Ford Racing Engines where I discuss among many things rod length-to-stroke ratio. This ratio is best for racing engines at no less than 1.7:1. 
				__________________Tom
 
 "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough HORSEPOWER." Mark Donohue
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				05-13-2010, 10:30 AM
			
			
			
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 The rod length subject is not a strong area for me, BUT, . . . I always underdstood that a SHORT rod produced a greater rod angle relative to the crank and produced way more torque due to the leverage.  It is called "Mechanical Advantage"  This is why the 347 stroker can easily produce 400 ftlbs of torque for such a small engine but should not be reved to high due to the associated piston speed.   Therefore, . . .  shorter rod length = more rod angle = more torque !!!! ????
 This is 180 degrees off from what he wants to do.  Am I missing something
 .
 
				__________________LIFE IS TOO SHORT TO WORRY ABOUT GOOD GAS MILEAGE
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 Utinam logica falsa tuam philosophiam totam suffodiant!
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 			 Last edited by CobraEd; 05-13-2010 at 10:36 AM..
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				05-13-2010, 11:56 AM
			
			
			
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by CobraEd  The rod length subject is not a strong area for me, BUT, . . . I always underdstood that a SHORT rod produced a greater rod angle relative to the crank and produced way more torque due to the leverage.  It is called "Mechanical Advantage"  This is why the 347 stroker can easily produce 400 ftlbs of torque for such a small engine but should not be reved to high due to the associated piston speed.   Therefore, . . .  shorter rod length = more rod angle = more torque !!!! ????
 This is 180 degrees off from what he wants to do.  Am I missing something
 .
 |  I  dunno, seems  we  are  seeing/reading  totally  different  things  as  what  I've seen/read  so  far, points  to  just  the  opposite  that  you  have  stated....
 
the  347  stroker  uses  a  5.4 in long  rod  with  a  3.4 in. long  stroke  giving  a  rod/ratio  of 1.59......these  motors  are  notorouis  for  side  loading  and  wearing  the  sides  of  the  cylinder  bore....because  of  the  extreme  rod  angle, as  the  piston  is  coming  up  in  the  bore, the  rod  is  trying  to  force  the  piston  out  of  the  side  of  the  block, causing  faster  than  normal  wear, generating  more  friction  and  heat,never  heard/seen/read  any  hard  data  that  this  will  make  more  torque,have  you???  I'm  familiar  with  the  term  "Mechanical  Advantage", but  you  can  also  get  to  a  point  with  it  where  you  start losing  advantage  instead  of  gaining........"Diminishing  Return"  I  think  is  what  it  is  called......
 
for  comparison, the  folowing  rod/ratios
 
331  stroker------1.66 
347  stroker------1.59 
351-W-----------1.71 
351-W long  rod--1.88 
400--------------1.65
 
	Quote: 
	
		| I just took delivery of my newly published book How to Build SB Ford Racing Engines where I discuss among many things rod length-to-stroke ratio. This ratio is best for racing engines at no less than 1.7:1. |  and  best  I  can  figure  for  big  blocks;
 
427----------1.72 
460----------1.72
 
I'd  love  to  see/read  any  published  data  you  have  come  across  about  the  short  rod/extreme rod  angle/more  torque  theory..... 
I  do  enjoy  the  research  almost  as  much  as  building  and  running  engines...
 
David
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				04-28-2010, 06:52 AM
			
			
			
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 How much notching will be determined more by the shape/size of the big end profile---a rod for a Chev or Honda size crank pin will be much smaller profile than the stock ford size |  
	
		
	
	
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				04-28-2010, 11:34 PM
			
			
			
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 are the rods 6.5 or 6.58? |  
	
		
	
	
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				04-29-2010, 09:16 AM
			
			
			
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by vector1  are the rods 6.5 or 6.58? |  351M/400  rod  length  is  6.58
 
351C  rod  length  is  5.78
 
David
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